Farewell, Ajarn: My First Thai Funeral

Today's post is going to be a bit different from some of the other things I've written. Today I'll be paying tribute to an old legend in the Chitralada English Department, and discussing my first experience with a Thai funeral.

I've talked a lot about my school- the students, the institution, my coworkers, and my boss, Geoffrey, but the truth is that none of us would be here if it wasn't for the late, and fairly mysterious, Mr. Garnier.

Mr. Derek Garnier, an Englishman and teacher at Chitralada School for forty-some-odd years, sadly passed away a few weeks back. He hasn't actually been in to the office in about five years, in fact, I never met him, although I've heard plenty of stories. It seems that the school thought very highly of him. But I can say with absolute certainty that I owe almost everything of my current life to him. You see, Mr. Garnier was the man who introduced Geoffrey, the man responsible for my being in Thailand, to the school.

Mr. Garnier (incidentally, all the old teachers seem to be known by their surnames... Mr. Owen, Mr. Mulliner, Mr. Garnier... but by Geoffrey's time, it seems that even the Ajarn Farang are known simply by their first names), has been sick for some time, so his passing comes as no great shock. Still, it's been a sad time at the school, as the older teacher reflect fondly on their memories of him.

We always had a running joke that Mr. Garnier was somewhat of a mystery. Last week, I was invited to attend his funeral, and I got to learn a bit more about this old legend.

flowers at the church

It turns out that Mr. Garnier (DG, as he was known to Geoffrey) was very well-respected by all. His funeral was in two parts. First, a Christian funeral was held at Christ Church downtown. James and I attended, as we are the two long-term foreign teachers. Even though I never met the man, I wanted to show my respects to a fellow Chitralada Ajarn. Father Tim performed the service, and I thought it was a great tribute to a good man.

In attendance was most of the English department, dressed fashionably in all black, pearls, and big hair, James, Geoffrey, and I in our Western mourning attire, and a handful of Bangkok's stodgy, aging, British expat community, whom I very much like.

Afterwards, we met in the community hall for tea and biscuits, then Ajarn Ratana, the head of Mathayom, treated all the teachers to a somtam (spicy northeastern papaya salad) lunch at a nearby retaurant.

After lunch, a van took all of the mourners to Wat Makut, a temple not too far from our school. Wat Makut, as James' wife, Nan, informed us, is a very "hi-so" temple. It's main purpose is for funerals of the very elite.

I had never been to a Thai funeral before. Mr. Garnier's, being a "fusion funeral", offered both a traditional funeral experience and a Thai funeral.

Hundreds of people turned out at the cremation. Being a Christian, Mr. Garnier's funeral didn't involve any monks, but the cremation was still held at a Thai temple with Father Tim attending. Each person was given a white paper flower, which we placed in turn beneath his coffin. This would be used as kindling for the actual cremation, and as symbolic way for each person to have a part in bidding DG farewell.

Finally, they moved DG's coffin back into the furnace.

cremation at Wat Maku

"That's surreal...", said James, as the flames ignited and began to lick the white coffin. The doors to the furnace stood open for a few moments, displaying the bright orange flames before finally closing.

Geoffrey always said that I should take any opportunity to attend a Thai funeral, as they are quite interesting and social affairs. I'm glad to have been given the chance to attend. It was quite interesting to  see what a Thai-style cremation ceremony is like. It also really means a lot to me to have been invited, because it means that I'm really becoming a part of the school.

he's got the school blazer, like me

Farewell, Ajarn. And thank you for your years of service to a generation of students. You will not be forgotten.