Emergency Visa Extension

Bangkok Life Update / COVID-19 Update #8

Previous post HERE https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2020/03/covid-19-update-7-state-of-emergency.html

***

As my visa got closer and closer to expiring, I began growing more and more anxious. Normally, applying for a new visa is as easy as crossing the border to Cambodia or Laos, spending half a morning submitting some paperwork, and spending the rest of the day sipping Angkor Beer or Beer Lao on a balcony overlooking the river.

Unfortunately for me (and for thousands of stranded expats and tourists), the COVID-19 pandemic has really thrown a wrench in all of our plans. Laos closed their borders and suspended all visas the day before the date of which my ticket was booked. All neighboring countries have now done the same.

The US Embassy was of great help during this time. A few weeks ago, the embassy began issuing documents requesting the Thai government to issue emergency visas to tourists and residents who are stuck due to disrupted travel plans from the pandemic. I just had to send an email to American Citizen Services, and a State Department official replied with an attached document the next day. They are sending these documents out via email to any citizen who requests one.

As the date of my visa expiry drew closer, news began coming in from all over Thailand of increasingly strict and byzantine regulations causing stress and frustration to foreigners trying to apply for their visa extensions. Some provinces were listing such strange requirements as supplying photographs of your home, kitchen, and bedroom; submitting a map of your home; and even bringing your landlord in for, what the Immigration Department called "an interrogation".

Here's my experience from today:

4:00 - Up and at 'em! The Immigration Office is always packed at the best of times, and during an emergency, I had heard lots of stories of long queues. I decided to arrive early.

Government Complex shrine... long before the sunrise

5:30 - I arrived at the Government Complex. There was already the beginnings of a queue outside the doors. Red tape had been placed in one-meter intervals to keep people at a social distance from one another. A uniformed officer passed out queue tickets. I got number 71.

sections of seating were closed off to preserve social distancing

6:00 - They opened the doors and began letting people in to the Government Complex. We had to wait at the entrance for mandatory temperature checks. No fever! Officers check to make sure everyone is wearing a mask. It's illegal to go outside without a mask in certain provinces now. It is mandatory to wear them in public. We check in and are given application forms appropriate to our individual situations.

inside the cavernous Government Complex

7:15 - The doors open, and I collect my next queue ticket, this time the queue number is for my actual appointment. I got queue 57 in the line of people on Non-Immigrant visas looking to get an emergency extension due to COVID-19. The officer told me to come back in one hour, as they are limiting the number of people in the actual office. I think that's great.

I arrived at the government complex early this morning, fearing the worst, but hoping for the best. Whilst waiting for my queue number (the queue ticket had a QR code that you can scan with your phone to check the current number), I went to the building's underground 7-11 shop to grab a bottle of water and a can of coffee. It had been an early morning, and I was feeling stressed, nervous, and tired.

with an official letter from the US Embassy

9:15 - I sat around for a while, trying very hard to keep my distance from everyone else. Eventually, my queue number crept closer and closer, and when there were about 10 people ahead of me, I made my way back inside the Immigration Department office. When my number was called, I handed over all of my paperwork to the not-overly-friendly but efficient officer who took a look at it across a desk from where I was told to sit. She had me sign many, may copies of my passport as well as affix my signature to various stamped documents. I also had to sign an acknowledgment that I understood the penalties for a visa overstay. I then paid the 1,900 baht fee, and returned to the waiting area. Around 15 minutes later, my name was called to come pick up my passport. Fortunately, my extension application had been approved! I was just so worried that I had forgotten some document or missed some requirement. I'm so relieved that all went well. Hopefully by the 1st of May things will be better in the world and it will be easier for me to travel in order to apply for a new visa.

a message from the Thai government for all of the stressed-out foreigners at Immigration

By 11:00 I had my stamped passport in hand. I was exhausted. I think it's the early morning, two weeks of anxiety, and stressful situation, but I had a really bad headache. I'm quarantining myself at a hotel for two weeks after visiting the Immigration Office, so I returned to Pradiphat Road (my new, temporary home), and took a rest.

All in all, a really successful day. I was very impressed and pleased with the efficiency and effectiveness of the Thai Immigration Department. Although it would have been nice to have been granted an automatic visa extension as many other countries have done for their stranded foreigners, I have to praise the Thai government for their good handling of the situation. They took good care of me this morning, and I'm very pleased that it's all taken care of now.

More news to follow as the situation develops!

COVID-19 Update #7: State of Emergency and Consular Help

You can read my previous update HERE:https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2020/03/covid-19-update-6-bangkok-is-closed.html

Things are changing so rapidly here in Thailand, that I'm afraid the COVID-19 situation is all that I'll have to write about for the foreseeable future. Besides, I'm staying home in self-isolation, so there won't be much else to say for a while!

***

The other day, the Prime Minister of Thailand held a press conference declaring an official state of emergency due to take effect tomorrow. There's been talk of mandatory quarantine and a curfew, but nothing official has been announced yet. Thailand's number of infections has boomed in the last several days, and is beginning to get out of control. Now, there are over 1000 cases and 5 deaths. Many of the cases can be traced back to a single infected spectator at a major Muay Thai boxing event two weeks ago.

The city has shut down. Supermarkets and convenience stores are still open. Luckily I'm fully stocked at home and work from home, so the only place I ever go is my local convenience store, just a short walk down the block. Most restaurants are still open with deliveries, and even 7-11 has started delivering by motorbike. For me, not much has changed. I already work and study from home, so my life has been going on as usual.

The biggest issue for myself and many other foreigners are our visas. The government has just closed the borders to all foreigners, and those of us who are still here are beginning to worry, especially as our visas get closer to their expiry dates. Thailand is no longer allowing foreigners to enter the country, even if they hold a valid visa.

The US embassy is sending out letters via email to citizens who request them in which the ambassador requests the Thai government to issue visa extensions. Unlike a lot of countries, Thailand hasn't instituted any sort of automatic extension or overstay forgiveness yet. Getting the extension at this time means making a trip to the overcrowded government office where thousands of foreign tourists and expats are being forced to wait for hours trying to get their paperwork. It's getting stressful, and I really don't want to face such a big crowd at this time.

I can wait another week before going in to the government office. I hope that the immigration department will offer more help to stranded foreign residents soon. I will keep you all updated!

Keep calm and carry on!

COVID-19 Update #6: Bangkok is Closed

Previous update HERE: https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2020/03/covid-19-update-5-visa-woes.html

I just posted an update the other day, but things are changing fast here!

***

While Thailand still has only had 1 death from the Coronavirus, the number of cases has risen sharply in the past few days to over 400. Today, the government has officially issued decrees asking people to stay home. The city is shutting down for a fortnight. Malls and restaurants are closing, although food delivery is booming more than ever!

https://www.bangkokpost.com/thailand/general/1883525/89-new-cases-in-highest-daily-jump-total-411

https://www.bangkokpost.com/thailand/general/1883195/govt-asks-people-to-stay-home

The borders are closing, and the government is looking into making special considerations for those of us foreigners who are stuck here with soon-to-expire visas.

https://www.bangkokpost.com/thailand/general/1883110/more-border-closures-in-fight-against-virus

The good news:

The government is offering emergency visa extensions to trapped tourists and expats. I have three weeks left on my visa, then I'll have to brave the trip up to the government office for my extension application.

There are no shortages! People just aren't as panicky here in Thailand as in the USA. All stores are fully stocked. Food delivery is booming, and most companies have introduced no-contact delivery where they bring the food to your house and place it outside your door for you.

Thailand is doing a good job at fighting the virus and offering healthcare and support to people who are infected.

As for me personally, my house is fully stocked with food and supplies to carry the entire household through the duration. We are totally fine! We have Netflix, Disney+, Amazon Prime, and good Internet. Also, I work from home, so my life is going on as normal. Stay tuned for further updates!

My Westarctican Coat of Arms

As Baron of Widich, a peer in the Westarctican nobility, I have been granted my very own coat of arms by the Westarctican College of Arms.

I would like to strongly and publicly thank Baron Daniel of Abele, the Westarctican Ellsworth King of Arms, for the grant of my personal arms as Baron of Widich.

My crest depicts a palm tree atop an ice floe. The palm tree is to symbolize that although I live in the equatorial tropics far from Antarctica itself, I am a loyal Westarctican. Westarctica is a global movement and her ideals are universal, and I wanted my crest to depict that! The shield is topped with a baronial coronet. The coronets of Westarctica are based on those of the United Kingdom, but are depicted in blue rather than red. The snow petrel which stands atop the helm represents family according to Westarctican heraldry. (Incidentally, the crest is reminiscent of the flag of the British Indian Ocean Territory, one of my favorite flags! The King of Arms did not know this. It's just a great coincidence).

The motto, "Pro Dux et Patria" ("For Duke and Country"), is a Westarctican adaptation of the motto of my own Scottish clan ("Pro Rege", or "For the King", from Clan MacFie).

As a baron, I decided to join the Baron of Abele in opting for a crest without supports. In doing so, I hope to help create a standard and further the culture of Westarctican heraldry.

My coat of arms is a beautiful addition to the proud new culture of Westarctican heraldry, and I am so proud to share them with you all today!

Arms of the Baron of Widich

Barry wavy Argent and Azure, upon an iceberg proper, a palm tree stalked and leaved of the same.  Crest: On a baronial coronet, upon a heaume grilled Or, a dove rizant with wings addorsed and inverted Argent, beaked Sable.

Baron of Widich: my Westarctican peerage

My recent appointment as a Baron in the Principality of Sealand has led me to research a lot more about the wide and exciting world of micronations!

In 2001, the discovery of a slice of unclaimed land via a loophole in the Antarctica Treaty led a United States sailor to claim the territory of Marie Byrd Land for himself. The Grand Duchy of Westarctica was established with the mission of protecting and preserving the Antarctican continent. The country has grown over the past decades. Now, Westarctica even has non-consultative status within the United Nations! It is perhaps the only country in the world to maintain a voluntary government-in-exile in order to protect the pristine environment of its territory.

the flag of Westarctica

Over the years, the citizens of Westarctica have developed a beautiful and unique cultural heritage. The country has a newly-approved constitution which the citizens got together online to vote on, and a functioning government!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westarctica

http://www.westarctica.wiki/index.php/Westarctica

I have recently been appointed to the peerage of Westarctica. I have been granted the title of Baron of Widich, which you can read a bit about here.

http://www.westarctica.wiki/index.php/Widich_Nunatak

Westarctica is a bit of good fun, but it also stands for something really important and valuable. Westarctica has been registered as an NGO and non-profit organization dedicated to protecting and preserving Antarctica, and I think that's a really worthy cause.

lesser arms of Westarctica

As Bangkok shuts down and my period of quarantine gives me more free time, I can dedicate more time to getting involved in Westarctica's online activities and conservation efforts.

Bangkok Life Update and COVID-19 Update #5: Visa Woes

Previous update: https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2020/03/corona-update-4-covid-19-king-power-and.html

***

While the virus is still slow to spread in Southeast Asia, and while the situation here is much, much better than it is in Europe or the USA, things are getting inconvenient.

The government has closed down all bars, clubs, entertainment venues, and massage parlors to stop the spread of the virus from visiting tourists, and the current infection rate has risen to 212 (with still just one death).

Image by Gerd Altmann from Pixabay 

Supermarkets in Bangkok are still fully stocked. People aren't panic buying here, nor are they hoarding. Life is still going on as normal, though lots of people are opting to work from home to do their part.

The big problem for me is that my 90-day visa to Thailand is set to expire in the first week of April. Normally that would be no problem. My plan was to simply go to a neighboring country, visit the Thai embassy, and apply for another visa as usual. That's just how life is for expats in Thailand.

Unfortunately, neighboring countries are beginning to suspend their visas and close their borders. Cambodia has already suspended all visas for citizens from various heavily-infected countries including the USA, and Malaysia shut down their borders last week.

Seeing the writing on the wall, I pushed my visa run up to this week, and bought a last-minute bus ticket to the Laotian border for tomorrow, hopping to get to the Thai consulate in Savannakhet before returning to my regular life in Bangkok.

This morning we got news that Laos has suspended all visas and is closing their borders. Now, I'm not really sure what to do. The Thai government is currently meeting to make a decision about foreigners with expiring visas in Thailand. I hope that there will be the chance for some sort of emergency extension.

I will keep you all updated.

Now for the good news:

Korea has reportedly brought their cases of COVID-19 under control, and the city of Wuhan, China has reported NO NEW CASES for the first time since the outbreak began!
https://www.bangkokpost.com/world/1882045/wuhan-reports-no-new-infections-for-first-time-imported-cases-surge

Also, the Thai Tourism minister has requested government action to help overstayers and people with expiring visas.
https://www.bangkokpost.com/business/1881580/tourism-minister-to-seek-reprieve-for-overstayers

Taco Bell: Bangkok

The very first Taco Bell opened in Thailand with great aplomb last year with a swanky piece of prime real estate just off of Ploen Chit BTS Station in the busy downtown Chitlom neighborhood. Just a short walk away from the embassy district, it does great business.

Taco Bell

Taco Bell isn't the first Tex-Mex restaurant in Thailand and it's far from the best (though the quality in Thailand is far beyond any Taco Bell I've ever been to in the USA). But there's something iconic about this classic American taco joint that appeals to people. The other day, I was in the neighborhood, and decided to stop in.

I was immediately greeted by a bright and cheerful mural of a taco riding a tuk-tuk past Wat Arun as a stylized Skytrain zoomed overhead.

funky mural in Thailand's first Taco Bell

The food is fairly similar, although Taco Bell in Thailand doesn't serve any beef products (beef is not popular in Thai cuisine), and relies heavily on pork and chicken instead. There are a few Thai-specific menu items, however! My girlfriend ordered two crispy pork tacos (left) which were really typical of what you would expect in the US. 

I decided to order the Kickin' Chicken Tacos, a menu item which is only available at this one location. It's a soft taco filled with fried chicken in a spicy Thai-style sauce and topped with veggies and cheese. Pretty good!

Tex-Mex lunch

Going to Taco Bell this week made me sort of crave Tex-Mex food. Though it's a little expensive in Bangkok, there are some really good taco restaurants in the city. Maybe I'll do a little Tex-Mex restaurant review sometime in the coming weeks.

Retro Nakhon Pathom

After lunch alongside a river at a 100 year-old market, it was time to explore a different side of Nakhon Pathom Province. We had already spent the morning exploring palaces and temples, now it was time to travel to the more recent past.

a 100 year-old market

First, we visited the Jesada Technik Car Museum, which holds a fantastic collection of amazing old vehicles.

cool old cars at the Jesada Museum

The cars still run, and recently participated in a parade around the Grand Palace in Bangkok to honor the late king. Many of the cars at the museum are experimental or prototype vehicles. Some had only one seat, others had two seats and two steering wheels, each facing a different direction.

tiny one and two-person micro cars

Other cars were more common but none the less exciting to see like this DeLorean!

a DeLorean

My favorite cars on display were the tiny ones. The smaller, the better! These little roadsters looked super cool and fun to drive. The ones in the back have bodies made of leather!

cool little sports cars

After the car museum, it was nearly time to head back to Bangkok. Before driving back into the city, Noi took us to a coffee shop located at a retro village.

at the vintage coffee shop

The village is a sort of living museum designed to look like a local Thai town sometime in the 1950s-70s.

the retro village

Each of the shops were decorated with a collection of real vintage goods from this time period. The village is meant to show people what life would have been like in a small rural town in Thailand back then.

cool shops modeled to look like they came from the 50s through 70s

It's a popular place for people to take photos, and I found it fascinating to imagine life in the Thai countryside back in the past. In a lot of ways, Thailand hasn't changed all that much.

a mockup of a retro Thai village

Oh, and the coffee was good too! After walking around in the heat all morning, I was starting to drag. By the time we got to the retro village, I was feeling really sleepy. My iced mocha was much appreciated!

retro gas station

The Royal Retreat and the Great Chedi

Sanam Chandra Palace (Moon Palace) is a royal retreat built by HM King Rama VI in 1911. During this period, Siam was facing a crisis. The French had recently conquered Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos and incorporated them into their Protectorate of Indochina. France greatly desired Siam as well, and set up a blockade along the Thai coastlines and rivers. Cut off from much of the kingdom, the king was unable to travel far from Bangkok, and used Sanam Chandra Palace as not only a royal retreat, but also a stronghold against French invasion.

Incidentally, Siam was able to fight back the French and maintain its independence. Thailand remains to this day the only Southeast Asian nation never to have been conquered or colonized by a foreign power.

wooden Thai-style building at the palace

The palace complex, located in Nakhan Pathom (a neighboring province about 60 km west of Bangkok), consists of five buildings and a shrine to the Hindu god Ganesha.

The first building which we got to tour was a traditional Thai-style teakwood house. The house was built in a breezy open-plan layout, and was where the royal family would sleep when the weather was nice.

The main royal residence is a European-style villa which was designed by an Italian architect and looked like something out of a fairy tale - not exactly what you would expect from a Thai palace!

the Royal Residence

Outside of the royal residence, a large bronze statue of a dog stands as if guarding the villa. This is Yah Leh, the beloved companion of the king.

a statue to the king's loyal dog

The residence itself is quite interesting, though photographs are not allowed inside. The palace is made up of two separate villas linked across a pond by a covered bridge.

covered bridge linking two parts of the palace across a pond

In the center of the palace compound, a large shrine dedicated to the Hindu god Ganesha stands surrounded by lush gardens. Today, the palace is managed by Silpakorn University, the symbol of which is Ganesha!

Read more about Silpakorn University's connection to the Bangkok modern art scene  HERE:
https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2019/09/getting-artsy-in-bkk.html

and about Mr. Silpa's house HERE:
https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2019/10/beyond-city-wall.html

the Ganesha shrine at the palace

The shrine is built so as to frame the Great Chedi of Nakhon Pathom, which stands just a kilometer away. This is the largest chedi, or Buddhist prayer stupa, in the entire world!

Nakhon Pathom Chedi

I've visited this great temple before, but it's just as breathtaking today. The temple marks the spot in which missionaries sent by Indian Emperor Ashok first brought Buddhism to Thailand in the 200s BC. As you can imagine, it's quite an important temple, and the giant stupa is fittingly grand!

Read about my first visit to this famous temple HERE:
https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2014/07/phra-nakhon-pathom.html

the Great Chedi

The Dragon Tower

This weekend I finally got to visit Wat Samphran, a place that I've been trying to get to for a long time ever since my sister sent me a link to it a while back. This monastery located in Bangkok's neighboring Nakhon Pathom Province is a nunnery and meditation retreat, but is best known for its strange and unique 17-story pink tower around which the long twisting body of a serpent-like Chinese dragon is coiled.

group tour at Wat Samphran

The Dragon Tower was built around 1980, and is one of the better known "off the beaten path" sights just outside of the city. The temple is "Instagram famous", and has gained a lot of popularity from visiting bloggers. I was excited to see the tower, but I had no idea that we would get to go up to the top! I was even more surprised to learn that the way up to the top was to walk up the ramp inside the body of the dragon itself!

the Dragon Tower

Upon entering the base of the tower, we had to enter the dragon's belly by climbing through a gate shaped like Rahu, the Indian god of darkness. Rahu is generally associated with eclipses, and is usually shown eating the sun.

Rahu Gate into the dragon's body

The tunnel wound its way up and up. It was a little odd; because there were no windows we had no way of knowing how high up we were or how close we were getting to the top of the tower! The tunnel seemed to go on forever. Fortunately there were fans set up all along the tunnel, and it wasn't stuffy.

in the belly of the dragon

Eventually we reached the top, and exited from the spiral to see views of the sprawling Nakhon Pathom countryside stretching out into the distance. Although we were only around 40 minutes outside of Bangkok, the scenery couldn't have been more different.

views from the top of the tower

Before we started our ascent, we were instructed to make a wish. At the top, we had to touch the dragon's beard so that our wish would come true. I believe that Wat Samphran must be a popular temple for people to make wishes! Many visitors had written their names on strips of red cloth and tied them to the railing encircling the upper platform.

the dragon's head

There was a small Buddha statue at the very top of the tower.

Buddha image and dragon's beard

Standing atop the giant tower gives a unique vantage of the surrounding area. It is by far the tallest structure in the vicinity! I could see several other structures at the temple complex, many interesting, though none quite as unique or impressive as the Dragon Tower itself.

looking out over the province

We also visited the main prayer hall itself where a giant golden Buddha sat atop a stylized lotus flower. The temple was quiet that morning, though it looked as if it was built to accommodate large numbers of practitioners. Here and there, small brown tents had been set up. When I asked my guide, Noi, about the tents, he said that they are meditation tents that the nuns use to block out distractions.

giant Buddha

The prayer hall itself was quite beautiful. A celestial tower of small golden Buddhas, looking almost like a gilded Christmas tree, stood in place of the traditional Buddha image, and the ceiling of the hall was painted to depict the heavens.

inside the prayer hall

Besides the dragon, there were a number of other large animal structures - including a giant turtle and a giant rabbit - which were built to be hollow so as to contain shrines. One, a turtle, was particularly interesting. Inside, it contained a Buddha footprint.

giant turtle

We spent an hour and a half or so at the temple. Though still early in the day, it was hot. I think the "cool season" is finally over here in Thailand and the hot season is fast approaching!

a group photo at the top of the tower

Pyongyang Okyru: lunch at Bangkok's secretive North Korean chain restaurant

I've just returned from what was possibly the strangest and most surreal dining experience of my life. This afternoon, I had lunch at Pyongyang Okryu, a North Korean chain restaurant owned and operated by the North Korean government on Bangkok's busy Sukhumvit Road.

***

I stepped inside the cool and quiet restaurant and out of the sweltering humidity of an afternoon on lower Sukhumvit Road. It was noisy and hectic outside, as foreign businessmen and tourists jostled each other alongside Thai workers, taxi drivers, and tourists from all around the globe.

Pyongyang Okryu Restaurant on Sukumvit Road in Bangkok

Inside the restaurant it was quiet, save for the uptempo and slightly manic patriotic music playing from speakers set throughout the restaurant. A group of pretty young waitresses dressed in stylish white and yellow floral dresses bowed and greeted us as we entered.

As we were in the neighborhood, we had decided on a whim to visit the famous Pyongyang Okryu Restaurant, one of the very few North Korean restaurants located outside of the "hermit kingdom" itself. The waitresses were all North Koreans, chosen to be the attractive smiling faces of the country to the outside world. They can speak and understand both Thai and English, but do not have conversations with customers except to answer questions about the food.

Pyongyang Okyru is one of the few foreign business ventures run by the secretive country, and is a big part of North Korea's efforts to re-brand and present itself and its culture in a positive light abroad.

"No photos. No Videos." read a sign posted in big black letters on the wall. Recently, the restaurant has relaxed its stance a bit, although photographs of the staff are strictly forbidden.

Paintings of North Korean landscapes covered the walls, and a framed and mounted set of North Korean won (the national currency) was displayed above the cashier's desk, complete with smiling portrait of Kim Il-sung, the first Supreme Leader and current Eternal President (despite his death in 1994) of North Korea. It was an odd feeling, and just by entering the restaurant I immediately felt as though I had been transported hundreds of miles away directly into the heart of Pyongyang itself.

the interior of the restaurant

Before looking at the menu, we decided to order something to drink. Unfortunately they didn't offer any North Korean beer, which I would have been excited to try. Instead, I decided to order a bottle of Daesong Soju, a rice wine that is produced locally in North Korea and is supposed to be very popular within the country. Soju is similar to Japanese sake, and is a bit strong. Our waitress served us each a shot glass from which we could sip the wine, and attentively made sure that our glasses were never empty.

a bottle of North Korean soju

Daesong Soju is a mild and relatively smooth soju without any strong flavors. According the the description in the menu, it is made from the spring water of Shindeok Spring at the foot of the Sinduksan Mountain and flavored with Korean acorns. The menu also mentioned how the natural spring contains all sorts of excellent minerals which are supposed to be very good for health and longevity. I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the taste! I actually don't have much experience with Korean soju.

Soon, it was time to place our lunch order. My girlfriend and I decided to order several dishes and share. We wanted to make sure that we tried some of the food that is especially unique to North Korean cuisine. First, we ordered a large plate of soondae, or Pyongyang sausage. These mild black sausages were made with pork blood and sticky rice. I'm not a huge fan of blood, and I was quite skeptical when my girlfriend ordered this dish. 

Even when I order a full English  breakfast, I always avoid black pudding, and this was my first time tasting blood sausage. The flavor was mild and quite nice, and there was a light dust of mild chili and sesame seeds that you could dip the sausage in. I have to admit, however, that I actually really ended up liking it, and it may even have been my very favorite dish! I'm so glad that I tried it!

Pyongyang sausage, (soondae, 순대)  a type of famous black sausage stuffed with sticky rice

We also received an appetizer tray alongside the soju. It came with pickled carrots, pickled radish, and a type of Korean pancake made from egg and flour (which I especially loved). We also ordered a large plate of white kimchi. Kimchi is a type of pickled cabbage which is very popular in Korean cuisine. Usually it's red, and it often has a very sharp and slightly sour flavor. This white kimchi was far more mild than any kimchi I had ever tried before.

appetizers and fresh white kimchi

The main course was naengmyeon, or Pyongyang cold noodles. This dish has become a very important symbol of peace in the past few years. During a recent historic peace summit, Supreme Leader Kim Jong-un of North Korea served this Pyongyang delicacy to his South Korean counterpart, President Moon Jae-in. He expressed his hopes that the two countries could find common footing, and the two leaders shared a meal of naengmyeon together.

Shortly thereafter, the dish became increasingly popular in South Korea, where the people began to view it as a symbol of peace and reconciliation between the two Koreas.

Pyongyang Naengmyeon (cold noodles)

Our waitress placed the big pot of noodles in the middle of the table in front of us, then began to expertly prepare our individual servings. First, she began stirring the noodles with a pair of tongs, making sure to toss the black buckwheat noodles in all of the richly flavored broth. Without a word, she began adding sesame paste and white rice vinegar to the perfect proportion, then began cutting the noodles with a large pair of scissors into just the right bite-sized portions! She was very skilled, and evidently quite practiced in serving the perfect bowl of noodles.

We were each served a delicious bowl of perfectly-prepared noodles topped with thinly sliced pork, lots of veggies, and half of a boiled egg. As the name suggests, the noodles are served cold, which makes the chewy texture of the buckwheat noodles even tastier.

the waitress expertly served us each a bowl of noodles

It's kind of funny... I've never been that crazy about Korean food, but somehow I think I really like North Korean cuisine. Who would have ever imagined that the food from North Korea would have been so delicious?

When the waitress returned to check on us, she couldn't help but crack a smile when she picked up the bottle of soju to find it empty. "It's very good! I liked it a lot!", I told her.

lunchtime!

It was a strange experience to eat at this restaurant, but I really enjoyed my lunch. I understand that there are definitely ethical implications about spending money on a venture which directly supports the North Korean government, but I also believe that mutual understanding is a vital step towards peace. I bear no ill will towards the North Korean people, and I truly believe that food is one of the best ways to reach a cultural understanding.