Mummy Monks and Hungry Ghosts: a post for Halloween

WARNING: CREEPY ALERT!

well... it is Halloween, after all

Mummy Monks

Well... I promised mummy monks, didn't I?

a reclining Buddha

A couple of months ago, I was wandering around the Old Town of Bangkok, trying to see sights that I had never seen before. I came across one particularly beautiful old temple, hidden down a side street and tucked away from the bustle of the rest of the city.

old temple bells

A little chapel caught my attention. It was in the back corner of the temple compound, away from the main prayer hall. Inside, I discovered a glass coffin and the mummified body of the temple's former abbot.

a photo of the temple's abbot in life

This is a Buddhist mummy, also known as a full body sariras (holy relic) or Sokushinbutsu ("living Buddha").

There's a very old belief in Buddhism that especially holy people will leave their bodies behind as a sort of magical natural mummy upon death. The belief is a bit controversial, as it challenges the Buddhist ideals of impermanence. Nevertheless, Buddhist mummies aren't all that rare, at least not in Thailand.

I've seen a few before in my travels. Usually they are the naturally mummified bodies of the abbots of particularly important temples. These abbots were believed to have supernatural powers deriving from their holy practices. Upon their deaths, the holy men will enter a state of meditation so deep that it is indiscernible from death.

Somehow, the bodies do not decay, despite the heat and humidity of Thailand. Instead they turn into natural mummies! Creepy, right? And also kind of mysterious.

and her he is now

Hungry Ghosts

The next thing that I want to talk about today is my recent visit to a Thai "Hell Park". This was a part of the very first Walking Adventure that I went on. We visited this place before seeing the Great Buddha of Thailand, but it was creepy enough that I decided I would save it for Halloween.

Mr. Bones welcomes you to the creepy Hell park

These "Hell Parks" are a very strange sort of attraction in Thailand. Essentially, they offer a warning to live your life well on Earth so that you don't have to be punished in the afterlife.

The most impressive (as in, made the biggest impression on me) were the Pretas, or "Hungry Ghosts", long, emaciated ghoulish figures from Thai folklore. They are cursed with insatiable hunger and thirst as a punishment for their greed in life. The punishment can last any amount of time until it is seen fit for them to enter the next cycle of their reincarnation. I guess the good news for the hungry ghosts is that it isn't for eternity!

Hungry Ghosts

Another section depicted the judgment of souls after death. The Buddhist concept of Hell isn't one of unending punishment, but a place of rehabilitation (admittedly through torture) on the path towards enlightenment.

judgment in the afterlife

I wasn't sure what everything was supposed to represent, but most of it was pretty creepy. For example, why is this monk wearing black robes instead of orange? Why do all of these souls have animal heads? Lots of questions!

I didn't spend too much time there, but I thought the pictures might make for an interesting Halloween post.

I'm not sure what this is, but it's creepy! Why is the monk wearing a black robe? Why do these people have animal heads?

Tonight (Halloween night) we are going to the second meeting of the brand-new Japanese food club in Bangkok! We will be sampling a selection of dishes from the island of Okinawa! Stay tuned, and Happy Halloween!!!

👻 🎃 🧛‍♂️ 

Central Plaza Westgate: The Biggest Mall in Thailand

For as long as I've been in Thailand, the BTS (Skytrain) has been the elevated rail and the MRT has been the subway. Now, there's a new MRT Purple Line that travels between Bangkok and Nonthaburi Province (just north of the capital) as an elevated rail.

the new elevated MRT line 

A few weeks ago, I decided to ride the "Purple Train" to its terminus.

It only takes a few stations before the train has left Bangkok proper and is heading through the rural countryside of central Thailand. It's obvious: "we're not in Bangkok anymore".

a temple in the rural outskirts of Bangkok 

Nonthaburi, though considered to be more or less a suburb of Bangkok, is really the province bordering the capital to the north. It's surprisingly rural, despite its proximity to the city. I've always been impressed with how quickly the skyscrapers and mega malls turn into banana fields and palm plantations upon leaving the city center.

crossing the river and heading east 

Despite this, though, I was actually heading to a mega mall! After crossing a northern section of the Chaophraya River, I was on my way to Central Westgate.

a rural temple in Nonthaburi 

Central Westgate is a new mall. As a matter of fact, it's the biggest mall in the entire country!

The mall is home to a gym, a supermarket, the second IKEA store in Thailand, and 12 cinemas.

Central Westgate - the biggest shopping mall in all of Thailand

The interior is nothing fancy, but it's a grand mall. If you live in Nonthaburi, it's got to be super convenient. For me, living in central Bangkok, it's not so easy to visit. Still, I was happy to have seen the country's largest shopping mall. It's really something! 

Pak Nam: The Mouth of the River

Now that the Skytrain line extends southwest out of Bangkok and into the next province, it's easier than ever to make a day trip out of the city! We boarded the Skytrain at one terminal and rode it the entire 32 stations and 24 miles down to the other terminal, in Samut Prakan Province.

riding in the shuttle down to the bridge

Samut Prakan is just southeast of Bangkok. The area is sometimes called "Pak Nam", which means "the mouth of the river". This is where the Chaophraya opens up into the Gulf of Thailand. Stepping off of the train, I could already smell the sea. Since Bangkok doesn't have any beach to speak of (it's just a port), I sometimes forget how close we really are to the ocean.

First, we headed to the Bang Pu Recreational Center.

the bridge with the restaurant at the end

Before doing anything else, we walked along a long bridge to where a restaurant was built looking out to sea. Since we were visiting a coastal province, what else could we do but order seafood? For this meal, we ordered soft shell crab in chili sauce, a spicy and sour Thai seafood soup, a big bowl of mussels, and crab fried rice.

seafood lunch by the mouth of the river

I particularly loved the soft shell crab. Lately, it's become a favorite delicacy of mine.

soft shell crab... my favorite!

The Bang Pu Recreational Center is a nature reserve, educational center, and recreational facility operated by the Thai navy. There are a few coastal nature trails and a huge mangrove nursery area. Mangrove trees are especially important in coastal areas, as they grow well in water and their twisting roots help prevent erosion. Bang Pu is also famous for its seagulls.

seagull!

Every winter (starting in late October), a flock of seagulls migrate to Bang Pu. During these months, visitors can watch the birds swimming and flying around, and can even buy food to feed them with. If you toss a piece of food up in the air, one of the birds will swoop down and catch it before it hits the water.

food for the seagulls

These were the best behaved seagulls I've ever seen! They didn't swarm people and they didn't act aggressively. They mostly stayed over their water or on little wooden perches. I was really impressed at how calm and polite they were compared to most seagulls that I've encountered!

the gulls come to Thailand during the winter months

A taxi driver told us how lucky we were to be visiting this week. In November and December, there are more seagulls, but also many times more people. It can get pretty crowded, but when we visited, we were some of the very few people there.

feeding the birds

Bang Pu is also recognized as an area of historical significance. At the onset of the Second World War, just two hours after the attack on Pearl Harbor, Japanese forces landed in Thailand. The Thai military and civilian volunteers amassed at Bang Pu Pier ready to defend their homeland against the Japanese Empire. Before the two armies could engage in combat, Thailand and Japan signed a treaty, allowing the Japanese army to pass through Thailand undisturbed in exchange for Thailand keeping out of the war.

the conservation area

Next, we decided to visit the Royal Thai Naval Academy Museum! The Naval Academy is located out here in Samut Prakan, and it used to be kind of hard to get to. Now, it has its own stop on the Skytrain line!

Royal Thai Naval Academy

The museum is free to visit. The very first thing that greeted us as we approached was this huge old seaplane sitting on the front lawn of the museum's historic building.

a big sea plane at the navy museum

Even though it's on the Skytrain line, I don't think too many visitors know about this museum yet. The staff was super excited to see us when we arrived, and the sailor working at the front desk gave Pinky and me a free tour of the bottom floor of the museum. First, he took us to a treasure room, where relics of the old Thai navy were on display. Among them were old compasses, swords, historic uniforms, and more.

Next, we got to view the armory, where historic weapons were on display, dating from the time of King Rama V.

a ship's gun

During the Ayutthaya Period, there was very little need for a navy. When the capital was moved to Bangkok, it became much more important to defend the city from the sea. After King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) returned to Siam from his travels throughout Europe, he set about modernizing the navy. He introduced Western military ranks and appointed the Prince of Chumphon as the head of the navy. The prince is honored to this day as the Father of the Thai Navy, and it's thanks to him that the country developed such a strong and efficient naval force.

the royal boat of King Rama V

Other artifacts on display included the 100 year-old wooden royal boat which once belonged to King Rama V. There was also an entire room filled with models of historic Thai naval boats, including one section dedicated to the royal barges. I'll unfortunately miss the Royal Barge Procession, but at least I got to see a few of the boats last week.

models of the Thai royal barges

The Royal Thai Navy is one of four branches of the Thai military: Army, Navy, Air Force, Police. There is also a Royal Thai Marine Corps, but it is not an independent branch. Instead, it's a part of the Navy. Thailand maintains one of the most modern navies in the world. The navy is especially efficient at maritime rescue operations.

portraits of Thai admirals

The Royal Navy saw quite a lot of action in the late 19th century, when it was instrumental in defeating and holding off invasions by the French, who had already conquered and colonized neighboring Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos.

models of sailing ships

Against all odds, Siam was victorious against the French, who desperately wanted to add the kingdom into their Indochinese protectorate. In honor of the victory, Thailand constructed the Victory Monument downtown. Thailand remains the only nation in southeast Asia never to have been colonized by a foreign power.

a Garuda figurehead and a Buddha's relic shrine

There's more to see in Samut Prakan, but that was enough for one day. Now that the Skytrain goes all the way there, it'll be much easier to visit in the future.

the museum's lawn and a view of the barges from above

Eating Well in Northern Laos

Laos isn't as well known for its cuisine as neighboring Thailand or Vietnam, but that doesn't mean that we didn't eat exceedingly well during our month-long travel to Vientiane (the capital), Vang Vieng (an old-school party town turned eco-tourist hotspot), and Luang Prabang (the holy city of Laotian Buddhism).

Noodles

To understand Lao food, it's important to first understand a bit about Lao culture. Laos and Thailand aren't that different, at least historically. In fact, the Lao and Thai languages are more or less intelligible, and share a script so similar that even I can read it! The food is fairly similar as well. In the beginning, we weren't even sure what Lao food was, or how it was unique from what you can find in Thailand. From the first day in Vientiane, the noodles were delicious, although nothing that we hadn't tried before in Thailand.

noodles in Vientiane

https://www.theworldofstreetfood.com/2018/09/tasty-egg-noodles-with-bbq-pork.html

In Luang Prabang, however, we encountered one of the tastiest bowls of noodles ever! It was something of a mix between Thai noodle soup and Vietnamese pho (which makes sense, given the geographical location of Laos between the two countries). What made it particularly special, though, was the fried garlic, which lent the soup a rich, savory flavor.

Xieng Thong Noodles

https://www.theworldofstreetfood.com/2018/09/xieng-thong-noodle-very-famous.html

Issan/Lao Food

True Lao food is really quite close to the cuisine of Issan. Issan is the rural northeastern region of Thailand. I have never traveled there (I've only been to one or two Issan towns), but I'm really familiar with the food. It's super popular in Bangkok! Issan food is spicier than regular Thai cuisine, and usually consists of sticky rice and lots of rich salads and meat dishes.

papaya salad

https://www.theworldofstreetfood.com/2018/09/tam-mak-houng-lao-papay-salad-in-vang.html

I mentioned before that the Lao language is similar to Thai. In fact, it's almost identical to the Issan dialect of Thai! Historically, Issan and Laos were one people. Through the geopolitics of the centuries, Issan ended up a part of neighboring Thailand.

laab, or spicy pork salad with mint

https://www.theworldofstreetfood.com/2018/09/larb-chicken-laotian-food-in-vang-vieng.html

Khao Ji

Vietnam has its Banh Mi, but Laos has its Khao Ji. Thanks to the French influence, baguettes are a popular food in Laos. I loved the baguette sandwiches in Vietnam, and I like them just as much in Laos! A Khao Ji sandwich is best served with an ice cold Beerlao Dark!

Laotian khao ji sandwich and beer

https://www.theworldofstreetfood.com/2018/10/khao-ji-lao-thai.html

Porridge

What's better for a Laotian breakfast than a hot bowl of porridge, a few pieces of fried dough, the best iced coffee in Luang Prabang, and a view of the river?

the best porridge and coffee in Luang Prabang

https://www.theworldofstreetfood.com/2018/09/lao-porridge-luang-prabang-amazing-and.html

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2018/09/the-morning-market.html

Pastries and Coffee

Now, i'm in now way defending the colonial efforts of France in Indochina, but if Vietnam benefited in any way, it was with the amazing coffee and cafe culture. If Laos benefited, it was through pastries.

pastries in Laos

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2018/10/cafe-hopping-in-luang-prabang.html

Lao Sausage

Lao sausage! The sausage and fried chicken at this restaurant was so good that we actually had to ask the chef how she made it! She told us that the dish was made with a hot air fryer rather than with oil. It was so amazing that Pinky and I came back time and time again to order Lao sausage during our stay in Luang Prabang. It was so good, in fact, that I even pressured my mom to buy a hot air fryer the next time I visited the USA!

Lao sausage, air fried chicken, and spicy papaya salad

https://www.theworldofstreetfood.com/2018/09/papaya-salad-restaurant-luang-prabang.html

Vegetarian Buffet

Every traveler in Luang Prabang ends up at the vegetarian buffet at the night market. All you have to do is buy a bowl, then fill it up with as much of these delicious Laotian vegetarian dishes as you can! Beer is sold separately. If you do want some meat, you can choose cuts of pork and chicken from the next stall over. Just pick out your meat, and they'll barbecue it and serve you at your table. The best part? The entire meal only costs 15000 Lao Kip ($1.70)!

vegetarian buffet in the Luang Prabang Night Market

https://www.theworldofstreetfood.com/2018/09/vegetarian-buffet-luang-prabang.html

The Boat Temple: Wat Yannawa

Whenever I go on my weekend walking tours, we often meet up at Saphan Taksin BTS station at the riverfront. Every time I'm arriving at the station on the Sky Train, I can see a big, ornate temple just down the road. Last weekend, I arrived a bit early. I wanted to get a coffee before the walk began, and on the way, I stopped by at the temple which had caught my attention.

the temple's boat

The most outstanding feature in the massive temple complex was what looked like a large boat, complete with cannons and Buddhist chedis instead of masts, sitting in the middle of the temple courtyard.

The temple itself dates back to the Ayutthaya Period, before the establishment of Bangkok as the capital. Because it is so old - one of the oldest temples in the city, in fact - the ancient ordination hall is kept under a protective roof, safe from the harsh sunlight and pounding rain of the tropics.

the old temple hall is protected by a separate roof

The temple has the ranking of Royal Temple of the 3rd Grade. It's beautiful, but little-known to foreigners. When I was there, a large group of people all dressed in white were making merit. There was also a bald-headed young woman all dressed in white robes. Perhaps it could have been the ordination of a Buddhist nun. Nuns aren't nearly as common as monks in Thailand, but you'll see them from time to time.

a carved door and sticks of incense

Female monastics are actually a lot more common in Mahayana Buddhism (the type of Buddhism found in China and Vietnam) than in Theravada Buddhism (the type of Buddhism found in Sri Lanka and Southeast Asia). Maybe I'll write a post sometime soon about that.

the main temple shrine and the beautiful ceiling

The central courtyard of the temple is taken up by this huge white and gold replica of a boat. When I visited, I had no idea why it was there. As soon as I got home, I got online to do a little bit of research.

up close to the boat

In the past, Bangkok was a major port for Chinese merchants who would sail their junks from Hong Kong, Canton, and southeastern China to trade in Bangkok. During the reign of King Rama III, these junks began disappearing as steam boats and more modern sailing ships became more efficient.

statue of King Rama III

Afraid that the memory of these historic boats would disappear, a group of Bangkok merchants built a replica of a junk boat at this temple as a way to preserve the memory for future generations.

the ancient temple contrasts with the modern skyscrapers in the Sathorn neighborhood

The Bazaar Hotel's Banyan Tree

Nowadays, I have a membership to the fitness center at the Suan Lum Bazaar Hotel, located at the corner of Lat Phrao Road and Ratchadapisek. The other day, when coming out of the gym, I decided to wander around the back of the hotel to where I saw a Banyan tree growing. Banyan trees are sacred in Buddhism, and I was curious.

Buddha statue behind the hotel 

What I discovered was a fairly fake-looking wall depicting a Buddha made to look like something from the Sukothai Historical Park. Although the "ancient" ruins behind the hotel were fake, the sacred Banyan tree was very real. In Buddhist belief, the Banyan was the tree under which Prince Siddharta achieve enlightenment and became the Buddha. Today, all Banyan trees are considered holy, and this one was no exception. Around the tree, a sort of shrine had sprung up, complete with Buddha statues and spirit houses.

a spirit house

The spirit houses, though relatively plain, were full of offerings and plastic statues; gifts to the grandmother and grandfather spirits of the land. Every building in Thailand has a spirit house. It's an ancient Animist belief that dates back to pre-Buddhist times, but which is still carried on to this day.

Basically, a spirit house is a place that you build to give thanks to the spirits of the land for allowing you to build in their home. As thanks, people often give offerings of red Fanta, water, incense, fruit, flowers, and more.

dancers and offerings at the spirit house

You can learn a tiny bit more about spirit houses HERE in my post about the Erawan Shrine in downtown Bangkok.