Tuesday, November 29, 2022

Ha Long Bay Part I: Surprise Cave and Ti-Top Island

The morning started, as all mornings in Vietnam should, with a cup of coffee.


A bus would be arriving any minute to pick us up, but on the advice from the hotel's front desk staff, I was scampering through the winding alleyways of Hanoi behind the hotel's bellhop.

a local coffee shop

He was leading me to the hotel staff's favorite local coffee shop, a hole-in-the-wall place where I ordered two caphe sua da (iced Vietnamese coffee served with sweetened condensed milk) for Mom and me.

Cà Phê Sữa đá (Vietnamese Iced Coffee)

I ran back to the hotel, coffee in hand, just in time to see the bus pulling up out front. Moments later, our bags were stowed on the bus, and Mom and I were sipping our iced coffee as the chaotic streets of Hanoi gave way to the rice fields of the northern Vietnamese countryside.

We were on our way to the legendary Ha Long Bay!

arrival at the coast

A few hours later, we arrived at the coast. The bus deposited us at a sort of rest area that had restrooms, a coffee shop, and a pearl farm.

at the pearl farm

There were also lots and lots of tourists.

I can't remember the last time that I was around so many white people! Before departing, Mom and I had acknowledged that we were going to be joining a very touristy experience. Still, I don't think either one of us knew just how touristy it was going to be.

a demonstration of pearl harvesting

Presently, we were back on the bus (after having to wait for about half an hour for an Australian guy who had gotten lost), and before we knew it, we had arrived at Ha Long Harbor.

aboard the small boat

Most tourists visit Ha Long Bay on a one-day package tour, but it was Mom's birthday, and we wanted to do something special! We had booked a 2-day 1-night cruise on the bay.

A few years ago, I met Mom in Arizona on her birthday for a few days exploring the Grand Canyon National Park (South Rim) and the other incredible National Monuments around Flagstaff. COVID prevented any adventures in the following years, but we were excited to have another birthday adventure together in 2022.

This was the reason that we were here in Ha Long Bay, and indeed, the reason that Mom and I had planned her Thailand and Vietnam adventure for this November. It was going to be a very special and unforgettable birthday!

our ship

We were welcomed aboard the boat by our friendly staff: Tom and Jerry (our captain and tour guide respectively... yes, those were really their nicknames!) and the rest of the hospitality staff abord the old but comfortable cruise ship that would be our home for the next two days.

the crew welcomes us aboard

After checking in and dropping off our luggage in our small but comfortable twin cabin, Mom and I headed up to the galley for an early happy hour.

our cabin on the ship
As we were touring Ha Long Bay, we thought it was only proper to toast to the start of our next adventure with a bottle of Ha Long Beer.

To be honest, pretty much all of the Vietnamese beers taste about the same to me... but it's fun to enjoy the local beer brand wherever we find ourselves.

an early happy hour!

Made famous in the west by British television show Top Gear, Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and increasingly popular tourist destination off the northern coast of Vietnam. Thousands of limestone karsts dot the blue-green seas of the 1,553 km2 (600 sq mi) bay.

Ha Long Bay

After lunch, we went to sit out on the bow to watch the scenery as our boat chugged along the smooth green waters of the bay. It was a bit cloudy, but we didn't let that stop us from enjoying the incredible views.

We had finally made it!

"I just can't believe I'm finally here!" Mom told me as we cruised through the otherworldly Ha Long Bay.

famous karst cliffs

Ha Long Bay is a near-mythical region steeped in myth and legend.

Ha Long means "Descending Dragon" in Vietnamese. Throughout the bay, thousands of stunning limestone karsts jut up from the blue-green water like the teeth of a great dragon. The legend goes that Ha Long Bay was formed when a great dragon crashed into a mountain upon descending from heaven. The impact formed nearly three thousand limestone karst islands in the bay.

*In fact, the name "Thang Long" (as in the Thang Long Imperial Citadel) is a historic name for Hanoi meaning "Rising Dragon". The legend tells that the dragon ascended from the area that is now Hanoi City.

islands in the bay

After lunch, we were loaded up onto the small boat that our cruise ship dragged in its wake and ferried off through the narrow passageways between karst cliffs to Surprise Island. Along the way, Jerry pointed out an almost impossible local shrine built into the very face of the rocky limestone cliff of one of the passing karsts.

a shrine built into the side of a cliff

Our boat docked upon the sandy shores of Bo Hon Island. Jerry promised that the boat would pick us up again on the other side of the island, then led us off to explore Surprise Cave.


We snapped a requisite photo, then began our hike up the 100 steps to the entrance to the cave.


The steps were steep, but we soon arrived at the cavernous entrance to Surprise Cave. The air was cooler within the cave, but more humid.

hiking up to the cave

Sung Sot Cave, or "Surprise Cave" as it's called in English, was discovered in 1901 by French colonial geographers.


So overwhelmed were they by the unexpected beauty of the cave, that it was officially recorded in the colonial maps as “Grotte Des Surprises”. However, it wasn't until 1993 that the cave was officially opened to tourists and visitors.


At 12,000 meters square and with its roof soaring an impressive 25 meters above sea level, Surprise Cave is the largest cave in Ha Long Bay. The cave is known for its stunning geography and incredible biodiversity.


We followed Jerry as he led us deeper into the cave, following the paved path which wound its way amongst the limestone formations.


Jerry's green laser pointer lingered upon one particular formation.

"It's a turtle" he declared. "It's one of the four sacred animals of Vietnam!".


Indeed, with enough imagination, the formation looked like a turtle!

Turtles are the symbol of blessings of good luck and longevity in Vietnamese culture, and spotting one formed as if by magic within this Surprise Cave was surely an auspicious sign.

Turtle Rock

Soon, the path wound its way around the intricate formations, and began spiraling upwards. Before we knew it, natural sunlight was streaming into the dark cave, and we had reached the exit.


We were high above Bo Hon Island, with another upteen steps to climb until we reached the docks on the opposite side of the island from where the boats had originally dropped us off.


We kept walking until we got to the beach.


The stairs were steep, and we had to push ourselves past the large extended Indian family who kept stopping to take a group photo after seemingly every tenth step or so...


Finally, we came to where to boats were docked.

Mom and I opted to purchase a bottle of coconut water each from the local merchant, then took a seat upon a local bench. 


Not so long afterwards, our guide and the rest of our tour group arrived at the docks. Carefully, so as not to fall upon the slippery steps of the pier, we all boarded our little boat towards our next destination.


The boat chugged across the harbor heading for Ti-Top Island...

Ti-Top Island

Ti-Top Island was named after Soviet Cosmonaut Gherman Stepanovich Titov. In 1962, President Ho Chi Minh of Vietnam and Colonel Titov were swimming together in the waters off of Ha Long Bay. 

Mr. Titov asked the president the name of the island that they were swimming at. Ho Chi Minh responded, " It's named after you." In Vietnamese, the name is spelled "Ti-Top", hence what the island is called today.

Gherman Titov

Ti-Top Island has got a beach shaped like a crescent moon and is an immensely popular tourist attraction in Ha Long Bay. The island is most famous for its views across the bay.

the beach

When we disembarked, we were met with a tempting choice: spend the evening swimming and enjoying the local bar or undertake the challenging task of hiking up to the very top of the island.


The beach bar was attractive, but Mom and I were ready for an adventure.

We set about to climb the hundreds of steps to the summit of the island.

I admit, it was not an easy climb!

We had to stop several times along the way to rest and catch our breath. However, at each rest stop, we decided to keep going and to press forward,

Finally, just as the sun was beginning to set, we arrived at the very top of the karst cliff where a pagoda had been built.

finally arriving at the top

The views were unparalleled...


As the sun began to slip further down into the horizon, and the sky began to glow gold, we decided it was time to make our way down the steep steps back towards the beach.

sunset over the bay

Eventually, we arrived.

 
It was much easier going down than it was going up. 

Finally, it was time to hit the beach bar!

an evening on the island

We ordered mango smoothies and watched the sun go down over the beautiful tropical bay.

mango smoothies

After a while, it was time to head back to the boat.


The cruise had prepared a sunset party of drinks and light snacks.

a quiet evening on Ha Long Bay

Afterwards, we freshened up for dinner.


It was a really fun evening!

We shortly found out, however that we had booked a bit of a party cruise....


As the sky grew dark, Mom and I prepared to turn in to bed. Suddenly, however, the karaoke evening began. Loud music and terrible singing blared across the boat, but we were eventually able to fall asleep.

What an experience!

It wasn't exactly what we expected, but it was an unforgettable day nonetheless,


Happy birthday, Mom!!!

I can't express how lucky I am to have such a supportive and adventurous mother. Thanks for teaching me to be brave, adventurous, and open-minded. Here's to all of our next adventures (I can't say too much yet, but we've got something big coming in 2023!).

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Monday, November 28, 2022

The Old Quarter and the French Quarter

After a fantastic lunch at President Obama's favorite Hanoi restaurant and a morning exploring the world's oldest university and a secret Communist base built beneath an ancient fortress, Mom and I retired to our hotel room to cool down and relax for an hour before our next adventure was to begin. Promptly at 2pm, a duo of local college students showed up at the front door of our hotel and walked with us along the busy streets of Hanoi to Hoan Kiem Lake. 

A few years ago, I learned about a fantastic program called Hanoi Kids, which offers free tours of Hanoi City by local students. >> Hanoikids Voluntary English Tour Guiding Club. These students volunteer their time and efforts to lead free English-language tours of Hanoi in exchange for practicing their English-speaking skills.


I had contacted Hanoikids very last minute, but they really came through! Our two local student guides showed up right on time at the doorstep of our hotel, ready to take us on our chosen tour of Hanoi's "Old Quarter and French Quarter".

First, they led us to Ngoc Son Temple, the Temple of the Jade Mountain. The temple is built on an island in Hoan Kiem Lake and is accessed by crossing an elegant vermillion bridge.


Hanoikids describes the guides as "not tour guides, but travel mates", and that's really what it felt like! It was like having two local friends show you around the city that they love.

At each site, they not only taught us about the history of the place, but also about the culture and significance behind it.


For example, they described the meaning of the two paintings which flank the gate to the temple. The one on the left shows a tiger coming down from a mountain. It symbolizes the importance of a successful person remembering where they come from and returning home to their home village. 

The painting on the right depicts a carp and a dragon. This common motif shows that even the simple carp (a student) can become a mighty dragon (a scholar) with enough diligence and hard work.


Out on the island, our two guides explained how the twin-roofed pagoda, with its eight pointing eaves, was meant to protect Hanoi and hold back encroaching Western power and influence.


There are three progressively more holy sanctums within the ancient Vietnamese temple.


The very inner room is dedicated to the spirit of a great general who has been immortalized as a deity in Vietnamese folk religion.


The temple, which is sanctified both to Confucianism and Taoism, was built in honor of Hanoi's founding legend.

Long ago the Vietnamese emperor was fighting a war against invading Chinese forces. He was given a magical sword by the gods to fight off the Chinese. After successfully driving the invaders out of Vietnam, he rowed out to Hoan Kiem Lake and returned the sword to the "Golden Turtle God", who took it under the water for safekeeping. "Hoan Kiem" means "Lake of the "Returned Sword".


The magical turtles are said to still live deep below the surface of the holy lake. In fact, two of said turtles have been preserved and are on display inside the temple itself.


Next, we walked towards the Ngoi Nha Di San Heritage House, a historic home that has been preserved as a museum dedicated to Hanoi's architectural and cultural heritage.


The home is a "tube house" - one of the iconic tall and narrow buildings which are quintessential around Hanoi.

As Hanoi was growing, one wise emperor instituted a tax upon the width of the facade and the footprint of a building. Thus, local residents were encouraged to build up rather than out to save on space. Nowadays, nearly every building in Hanoi is a tube house.

*Pinky and I lived on the second floor of a tube house which had been converted into a guesthouse for a month in 2018!


Mom and I stayed on the 9th floor of a very narrow tube house hotel during our time in Hanoi. Our room took up the entire floor!


This particular home was once a shophouse. The lower floor would have served as a small shop or store, and the upper floors would have housed the family. It was built sometime during the 18th century, and the technology and decor within the house dated back to the early 20th century.


Our guides from Hanoikids showed us the clever water cistern, which used an ingenious system of pipes and drains to funnel water down from the roof.


They also showed us the kitchen, which had three ovens/stoves and a hanging steamer basket built into a well-ventilated covered outdoor cooking area. I really wouldn't mind cooking here!


Upstairs, we were shown the family shrine. Vietnam has heavy Chinese religious and cultural influences, and ancestor worship is still a huge part of Vietnamese culture.

*(Anyone who ever claimed that Communism was anti-religion has clearly never been to Asia. Both Vietnam and Laos are deeply religious countries.)


Upon a mantlepiece stood three porcelain statues of the Three Star Gods.

I know them by their Thai-Chinese name: Hoek, Lok, and Sieu, but here in Vietnam, they are known by their Chinese names, Fu Lu Shou.

The three gods represent longevity (Shou), prosperity (Fu), and family (Lu).

... at least, I think I've got that right.

The three deities are always seen together.


We left the historic home and walked onwards through the busy and bustling streets of Hanoi's chaotic but limitlessly charming Old Quarter, dodging motorbikes, pedicabs, and hoking taxis along the way.


Hanoi is a fantastic city, but it takes some time to get used to.

The traffic is the very definition of chaos, and nobody seems to follow any rules.

However, if you place your trust and faith in the hands of the drivers, I've found that - more often than not - one comes out relatively unscathed when crossing one of this hectic city's crazy ancient streets.


As we were approaching the old cathedral, one of our guides pointed to a local coffee shop.

"I work there part-time", she told us.

I asked her if the coffee was good, but with a smile she told me that she mostly just drinks tea...

Mom and I stepped inside. With the recommendation of our guide, we thought it was the perfect place to buy some souvenirs for our family in the States.


After buying our gifts, we came to Cathedral Square. There, amidst French cafes and roasteries, the grand Cathedral of St. Joseph soared into the sky looking for all the world like a miniature version of Notre Dame.


I love visiting churches around the world. In fact, I have a second blog that is entirely dedicated to churches, chapels, and cathedrals. It's called Stained Glass Travel, and you can find it at stainedglasstravel.com.

I wrote a post about St. Joseph's a few years back: The Cathedral of St. Joseph, Hanoi, Vietnam (stainedglasstravel.com)


Vietnam, officially a Communist country, has a sizable population of some 4 million practicing Catholics. This is due, in no small part, to Vietnam's long history as a part of Indochina, a colonial territory of France.

The beautiful Neo-Gothic cathedral was constructed in 1886, one of the first buildings constructed by the French colonial government. The cathedral, the center of Catholic influence in all of Vietnam, is appropriately impressive, and its iconic facade was designed in the style of Notre Dame in Paris and dedicated to Joseph, the patron saint of Vietnam.



The cathedral was closed for ongoing refurbishment and renovation, but we were allowed to walk around the outside.


Around the back were some incredible murals telling the story of the life of Jesus, starting with the Christmas story all the way through to the Crucifixion.


Then, we walked towards Trang Tien Plaza, a classic old shopping mall in Hanoi where I spent many an hour cooling off in the blessed air-conditioning from the hot tropical air. 


The mall was setting up for Christmas, and its trees and lights were on full display.

I think Hanoi would be a really amazing place to celebrate Christmas. I wonder if they decorate as much as they do in Bangkok...




Starting to feel a little tired, Mom mentioned ice cream offhand.

Our guides took a moment to confer amongst themselves, then led us to a very famous old ice cream parlor which has been a Hanoi institution since the 1950s.


The parlor was a sort of covered courtyard with several different counters where patrons could order ice cream scoops, bars, or softserve respectively.

Feeling traditional, we went to the ice cream bar counter.

Mom and I both had a green rice flavored ice cream bar - apparently a very traditional flavor of ice cream in Hanoi. We sat for a while with our guides, hanging out and chatting. It was a really fun afternoon.


Our last spot to see was the Hanoi Opera House, a bright yellow building built during the colonial era.

Our guides explained to us how yellow was prescribed color of the Imperial Court, and only the buildings of the emperor were allowed to be painted in yellow. When the French invaded Vietnam, they made a point of painting every civil or government building yellow as a sort of insult to the Vietnamese puppet government while at the same time cementing themselves as the genuine and legitimate rulers of the country.


After saying goodbye to our new friends, we retired to the 14th floor rooftop our hotel for dinner and happy hour.


Tonight, we had a few bottles of Truc Bach Bier, one of the top-selling Vietnamese beers.

Many Vietnamese beers are named after locations in Vietnam. There's Hanoi Beer, of course. There's also Bia Saigon, Ha Long Beer, and Truc Bach Bier.


Trúc Bạch Lake is one of several lakes in of Hanoi. It is best known outside Vietnam as the site where future United States politician John McCain crash-landed during the Vietnam War after being shot down.


Today, there's a monument to John McCain at the shores of the lake - a testament to the nearly miraculously repaired relations between the US and Vietnam in the decades since the war.


As traffic zoomed around our tube house hotel, we toasted to another successful day of adventure in the beautiful and hectic capital of Vietnam.

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