Boxing Day at Hua Hin Hills

Boxing Day dawned bright and clear, and I woke up to one of my favorite views: the clear blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand and Monkey Mountain in the distance.  The weather in Bangkok has been (slightly) cooler lately for winter, but in Hua Hin it's still sunny and warm.

Hua Hin, the royal resort town just three hours southeast of Bangkok, is one of my favorite places to spend a holiday. I had left Bangkok immediately after work on Friday, Christmas Day, heading for the coast.

Monkey Mountain in the distance

Hua Hin is quite unlike most other Thai beach towns. It's quiet, laid-back, tranquil, and fairly upscale. It's a far cry from the backpacker beaches and other tourist hotspots like Phuket or Pattaya. Hua Hin may not have the most beautiful beaches in Thailand, but it's the perfect place to relax for a few days.

looking out to sea

I didn't have any big plans for the weekend. Mostly, I thought I would just take the chance to escape the city and relax by the sea with a good book. By sheer coincidence, some friends of my girlfriend happened to be in Hua Hin for the weekend as well. They had a car and were planning to visit Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, and invited me along.

Hua Hin Hills Vineyard

The vineyard is about 40 minutes by car from Hua Hin, in the hills between the sea and the Burmese border. I last visited a vineyard four years ago in Stellenbosch. Unfortunately, there was no goat cheese at HHH like at Fairview. Instead, Hua Hin Hills had some pretty unique and delicious grape ice cream!

elephants at the vineyard

Besides just eating ice cream, we rented some mountain bikes to check out the trails amongst the grapes. I've always loved mountain biking, and even took it as a PE course in college. The hilly trails looked easy at first, but soon turned out to be a pretty good workout! The views were incredible though.

the vineyard

I would have never even known that the vineyard was there! Just looking at the scenery, I might not have even guessed that I was in Thailand. This country is often full of surprises. These things happen when you get off the normal tourist trails.

biking through the beautiful scenery

Cheers!

Secret Santa

MERRY CHRISTMAS 2015!!!

We've got a new tradition at Mathayom English... the office Christmas photo!

Merry Christmas from Mathayom English

This year, as usual, we had to proctor midterm exams on Christmas Day, but at least it was a Friday, so it's like we got to have Christmas weekend off. It's not much, but it's something at least. We make the most of it though, with Christmas music and lots of snacks.

Before we all went home on Friday afternoon, the English department gathered together in our office for a Christmas party and secret santa gift exchange.

Of course, nothing is allowed to happen in Thailand without dozens... no... hundreds of photos to prove it! I've gotten used to that by now.

Besides, I have a new hat that I'm quite fond of!

I wish everyone a very merry Christmas and a happy New Year. We just have two days of work before the New Year holiday. 

Mae Sot V: Winter in the North

It's been several months, but over the past weekend I was once again given the chance to head north to Mae Sot, for the fifth time since moving to Thailand. Our school in Bangkok was closed on Friday due to Bike For Dad (a large city-wide Father's Day bike ride) shutting down the streets around the school, so Geoffrey decided that it was a good time to visit Mae Sot and try to see the students in school.

View of the mountains from the scenic viewpoint coffee shop

Since we usually visit Mae Sot on holidays, this was the most students I had ever seen at the school. As we arrived, we were swarmed by dozens of small children screaming, laughing, and saying "hello, how are you?" while trying to grab our hands. They never acted like that with us in the past. Maybe it's because this trip, Geoffrey invited my girlfriend, Pinky along. The kids loved her!

It's nearly time to celebrate Christmas at the school

After checking in at the Erawan Hotel (no, not that Erawan Hotel), we went out to do some sightseeing around the western part of Tak Province, where Mae Sot is located. After our traditional stop at the border market, we went to Mae Kasa, where there is a small waterfall and a hot spring.

Mae Kasa Waterfall

After spending a large portion of the early afternoon walking all over in my Chaco sandals, I appreciated soaking my feet in the hot water. There's a resort at the hot springs with some mineral baths that you can rent; it seems like a relaxing place to stay for a night or two. Mostly, people were enjoying boiling onsen eggs in the hot mineral water.

Mae Kasa Hot Spring

Of course, no trip to Mae Sot is complete without the requisite trip to "KFC" (read the former Mae Sot posts to get that reference). The weather that evening was beautiful, actually a little cool! Sitting outside in the cool winter breeze, I could almost believe that it's nearly Christmastime. The decorations at the restaurant helped too.

Christmas at "KFC"

We never stay for longer that one night in Mae Sot, which makes for an exhausting weekend (but always memorable and enjoyable). We got back from the restaurant around 8 pm, and I was asleep almost instantly!

The next morning began a bit later than the one before, but we were on the road by 8 am, just in time to hear the national anthem playing on the radio as we pulled out of the hotel parking lot. Amazingly, it was actually cold that morning! Can you believe it!? Cold in Thailand!

To tell the truth, I have never been up to Mae Sot in the winterbefore, and haven't spent any time at all up in other areas in the north. I know, I really need to get to the famous Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai sometime. It seems wrong that I've lived in this country for three years and haven't visited some of the most famous cities! Most of my trips have been to the south or around the central provinces. I had heard that it would get cooler in the north-it reached a record 3ºC (37ºF) in the mountains of Chiang Mai this week - but I've never experienced that myself. All I've seen are a few sub 80º days in Bangkok when we can shut off the aircon and open the windows of the office.

But it was actually quite chilly in the morning as we left Mae Sot - 53ºF as we stood and looked out over the sea of fog at the scenic viewpoint coffee shop on our way down the mountains. That's a sight I've never seen before in Thailand. It was incredible.

And here's a short bonus videos of some monkeys we stopped to visit on the way back to Bangkok!

River Kwai

Father's Day is a very important holiday in Thailand, on account of it being the birthday of His Majesty The King. To celebrate, employees get a long weekend off from school. This year, I decided to revisit one of my very favorite Thai provinces, Kanchanaburi to see the annual River Kwai Festival which takes place on the first week of December every year.

I hadn't been back to Kanchanaburi in two years. I would have liked to visit Erawan National Park again, but I didn't quite have the time. I definitely enjoyed the town though, and I have never once been disappointed by the sunsets over the River Kwai.





The River Kwai, of course, is the site of a very important episode from the Second World War, and the subject of both a book and the well-known film starring Sir Alec Guinness (none other than Mr. Ben Kenobi himself). The film tells the true story of the British and Australian POWs who were forced by their Japanese captors to build the "Burmese Death Railway" linking their occupied territories in Southeast Asia. The railway cuts through the mountains at "Hellfire Pass," and finally crosses the river at the infamous bridge. Hundreds of POWs died building the railway.

In remembrance of this history, Kanchanaburi puts on a sound and light show every December at the bridge, telling the story of the bridge's construction with narrative, acting, and fireworks simulating bombs and cannon fire. A Japanese patrol boat cruises back and forth beneath the bridge as an ancient steam locomotive roars across the bridge behind a procession of Allied flags. I got tickets to watch the show from the roof of the War Museum.

The bridge lit up at night during the show (kind of hard to see)

The next morning I walked to the town's main square to go to the Death Railway Museum. The museum is very good and very well-maintained, and holds numerous artifacts donated by the families of former POWs including uniforms, medals, journals, and letters. On the second floor of the museum there is a small café with a huge window that looks out over the POW cemetery with a new large stained-glass window depicting part of the building of the bridge.

stained-glass window

I also spent some time walking around the cemetery. There were a few other foreigners there as well. Some had placed flowers at a few of the tombstones, and one or two had left small Australian flags as well.

Allied War Cemetery

One thing that I really like about Kanchanaburi is how quiet it is- it's possible to walk anywhere you want to go, and there is very little traffic. I have been in Bangkok since October, and I very much needed to get out and have some fresh air and quiet away from all the big city chaos.

Quiet afternoon in Kanchanaburi

The last thing I did during my short trip was visit a large Chinese temple overlooking the river. The temple is very well-designed, and is very different from most temples in Thailand. A huge statue of Guanyin, the Chinese goddess of mercy, look over the bridge.



A Chinese temple on the river

I love the month of December in Thailand, because we get a lot of long weekends! I had Monday off when I went to Kanchanaburi. The next week, I had to work on Tuesday and Wednesday, but then Thursday and Friday was another holiday! I went to Mae Sot again, for the first time this school year. It was remarkably cold at times up in the mountains, and I loved it! I'll write about that soon.

Looking over the river

The Elephants of Siam

If you happen to be around Siam Square right now, you'll definitely notice the dozens of elephant statues all over the place. Each one was designed by a different artist, and they are to raise awareness for elephant conservation in Thailand. Here are a few of my favorites.

Some of the elephants represent things about Thailand, like the durian (one of my favorites!) and the classic Bangkok tuktuk.

Like the durian, several of the elephants were designed after tropical fruits, like this mangosteen, my favorite Thai fruit...

... and this pomegranate!

This elephant is decorated like a panda.

Some of the elephants were sponsored by different brands, like this one for Chang Beer (Chang means "elephant" in Thai).

Siam is starting to look really Christmassy, and the reindeer elephant fits right in with all the lights and trees that are going up downtown.

Look at this elephant! This is another one of my favorites. His name is "The Most Curious Mr. Hendricks". Isn't that incredible! What a gentleman with his top hat and cup of tea!

River Festival 2015 (Loi Krathong)

It's late November again, and in Bangkok that means it's time for Loi Krathong. This year, Pinky and I went to River Festival 2015, organized along the Chao Phraya River by the Ministry of Tourism. Loi Krathong was on Wednesday the 25th, but we went out on the 24th to avoid the crowd like the one I got caught in last year!

We arrived at Ta Tien Pier, which was the headquarters for this year's celebration. This was not only the best place to watch the river parade, but also where you could try Thai snacks, watch a Thai dance show, and learn how to make a krathong, all for free!

Everything at the festival was presented in three languages - Thai, English, and Chinese, making it easy for everyone in attendance to learn about and understand about a little bit of Thai culture. Loi Krathong is a family event, and there were lots of families, both Thai and Farang, at the festival.



Last year I bought a krathong, but this year I got to make my own! One of the stations set up at Ta Tien Pier had lots of supplies (banana stalks, banana leaves, flowers, candles, incense) for making a traditional krathong. There was even a staff member on hand to teach you what to do.

Handmade krathong

The festival took place at seven piers along the river, including Wat Pho and Wat Arun. We went to a few of the other stations, but the main celebration at Ta Tien was the most impressive. Check out my video (below) to see some of the Loi Krathong festivities!

 

Angkor Wat

Angkok Wat... the Eighth Wonder of the World, the 12th century Khmer ruin which has captivated the imagination for centuries. It's a massive, sprawling temple complex located just outside the Cambodian city of Siem Reap.




Angkor Wat at dawn

Most people believe that Angkor Wat is best viewed at dawn, as the pale orange Cambodian sun gradually illuminates the misty sky. It's a surreal experience as the magnificent legendary temple complex slowly comes into view.

the spectacular Angkor Wat

Yes, this is the best way to see Angkor Wat. Unfortunately hundreds of tourists agree, and it's almost impossible to get a good view due to the crowds, even at five in the morning. Nevertheless, I was out there in the dark waiting to see the famous sight from across the temple's lotus pond. It's still a sight worth seeing.

Angkor Thom temple

Angkor Historical Park is huge. While Angkor Wat is definitely is definitely the most famous of the temples, the Bayon Temple at Angkor Thom is unmissable too. Angkor Thom was the grand walled capital city of the great Angkor Empire. The most iconic feature are the many carved faces that look out from every wall and tower at Angkor Thom.



Bayon heads at Angkok Thom

The centerpiece of Angkor Thom is the Bayon Temple, with its many carved "Bayon Faces". There are something like two-hundred of these serene, smiling faces looking out over Angkor Thom.

the gates at Angkor Thom

It can get very hot in Cambodia, even in October. There's not much shade out at Angkor Thom. It was midmorning by the time we left Angkor Wat, stopped for breakfast at Angkor Café, and finished exploring Angkor Thom. The sun was high in the sky and beating down over the historical park.

afternoon in Cambodia

The last time I visited Angkor Wat two years ago, I had gotten a three-day pass, which gave me time to explore places like a sacred waterfall with Khmer carvings and the jungle temple, Bang Melia. This visit, we just got a one-day pass, and only planned on doing the "small circuit" tour of the three most famous temples.

the Angkor temples are Hindu in origin

Our host, Sovong, drove us to and around Angkor, and gave us an insider view on the importance of this great ancient kingdom in Cambodian history. It was really cool to be shown around by a local, and I really think it helped me get more out of the experience. I knew Angkor Wat would be crowded, and I almost wondered if it was worth the effort for me to go again. I'm glad I did though, because this visit was different than the one I had done before.



monks at Angkor Thom

The third and final temple we visited was Ta Phrom. Ta Phrom Temple is still partially overgrown by the jungle. It can get really crowded, as it's one of the park's most photogenic spots, but it looks really cool. I've been told that this temple was featured in one of the Tomb Raider movies starring Angelina Jolie.

Ta Phrom Temple

We spent several hours at the three temples, and I was hot and exhausted by the time we left Ta Phrom and drove back into Siem Reap. I didn't really enjoy the crowds, and since we visited the park's three most famous temples, it was impossible to escape from the hoards of tourists. Given more time, I would have chosen to get off the main tourist trail and see some of the temples further afield, like I did two years ago at Bang Melia.



Ta Phrom (the "Tomb Raider" Temple)

Nevertheless, I had a wonderful time. Something about Cambodia keeps bringing me back year after year. I never plan on going again, but somehow it always seems to happen that I find myself in Siem Reap.

 

For now, I don't have any more big trips planned until April when the school year ends and I'll fly back to visit the US. Who knows where my next big adventure will take me though? Sometimes you can't plan these short-notice trips, and they just happen. Sometimes, that's the best way,

Back to Cambodia

I always end up in Siem Reap. I'm not sure why. It's not like it's my favorite place I've ever traveled. Whenever I go there I think something like, "ok, Siem Reap is an ok city. Pub Street is ok during the daytime. Angkor Wat is cool, I guess... but I'll really have to go somewhere else next time, or see another part of Cambodia."

Siem Reap is nothing like Bangkok. It's fairly rural, and in a way, I suppose, it still has the feelings of East Asian romanticism written about in pre-1960-70's travelogues. In any case, I never really plan on returning, but somehow I end up in Siem Reap at least once a year. Maybe it's just its proximity to Bangkok (45-minutes by air) and the ease, convenience, and cheapness of going there. In any case, this October, I once again found myself sweltering in a dusty outdoor café on Pub Street in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

colonial French neighborhood, Siem Reap

Ok, that's maybe a little dramatic. My friend Brenna had never been to Cambodia, and didn't feel comfortable traveling there alone, so I offered to go along for a short three-day visit. We arrived late at night, just two days after my return from Myanmar, so I had hardly had time to wash my laundry before packing it all up again. We were met at the airport by our host, Sovong. On this trip, we had booked rooms through Airbnb, a website that allows locals to host visitors in their own home bed and breakfast guesthouses. Sovong was a very talented artist, and had painted the rooms of his guesthouse with murals depicting the temples of Angkor Wat. As he drove us to the guesthouse, Sovong told us that he would be willing to take us around for some local food one night, and suggested that October was the perfect time of year to go out on Tonle Sap Lake to visit the floating villages.

Pub Street, Siem Reap

We spent the first morning relaxing at a cafe on Pub Street, and in the afternoon, Sovong drove us about half an hour out of town to the river, where we boarded a small boat with an Argentinian couple also staying at the guesthouse.

houses in the floating village

church in the floating village

Sailing through the floating village was a very interesting experience. The village had homes, a police station, a small school, and even a church, all built up on stilts. There was a small temple on the riverbank. The village was built along the river, but we soon passed through it and came to a wetland. Suddenly, we were in the biggest lake I had ever seen! I guess I need to review my Southeast Asian geography. I had no idea that there was such a large lake in Cambodia, but when I looked at a map, sure enough. Tonle Sap Lake is massive, the largest in Southeast Asia!

Tonle Sap Lake

We stayed on the lake for a few hours to watch the sunset. After a while, we returned back down the river to Siem Reap.

One of the reasons that we had for going to Cambodia was to see Phare, the Cambodian circus. To be honest, I almost didn't feel like going to Cambodia again this year, especially after still being exhausted from my trip to Burma, just two days before. Brenna convinced me to go, however, by suggesting that we go see one of the world's most famous shows. In the end, I was very glad that I went, because I got to do a lot of things I hadn't seen before.

Pub Street at night - I really prefer it during its quiet daytime hours

The circus was really amazing! It was unlike any other circus I had seen before. The performance, which incorporated a number of traditional Cambodian acrobatic moves, told a mythical story with a contemporary twist. Although the single tent setup was really small, they showed a number of the feats which were completely amazing. The circus originated from a small school. It operates in the very poor rural areas of Cambodia, teaching children performance arts for free, helping them to break out of the cycle of poverty. Many of the performers have gone on to be famous throughout the world, and the troupe we saw had just returned from a tour in France. The proceeds from the show go to keep the school running. It's really cool.

the Cambodian Circus

We would spend the next full day at Angkor Wat Historical Park. I had been there once before, but I was glad to have the chance to visit again. In the evening, Sovong took us to a market to try some local Cambodian food. One of the big benefits of staying at a local guesthouse is getting the chance to interact a bit more with people and participate in the local culture.

Sovong teaches me how to eat a fresh lotus pod

I'm sure I'll go back to Cambodia again sometime. Siem Reap holds its own charm for me. Something about its proximity to where I live in Thailand, and the visa-on-arrival available to most visitors makes it fairly easy destination to visit for two or three days from Bangkok. Although the culture is similar to that of Thailand, the country is much more rural and traditional, and the modern history of the two countries are vastly different. Maybe one reason I like Siem Reap is that it has a more "authentic" feel than Bangkok does. I think I still prefer living in Bangkok though, by a large margin. Nevertheless, I like Cambodia more and more each time I travel there.

picnic with food from the market