Wednesday, October 31, 2018

Jack-o-melon 2!

When you live abroad in a foreign country, it can be difficult to maintain the traditions from your home country. You learn to improvise and create new traditions. For example, pumpkins - at least the nice big ones that are good for carving - are imported and too expensive to buy just to carve. Over the past few years in Thailand, I've carved many different things (but never the classic orange pumpkin). It's become my new tradition to carve an unorthodox jack-o-lantern every year on Halloween. This year, we carved a Thai cantaloupe and a tiny northern Thai pineapple. Happy Halloween, everyone!


Monday, October 29, 2018

Wan Phra in Vientiane

It was the last day in Laos, and we were back in Vientiane. It was Wan Phra, the four-times-monthly "Monk Day", or "Buddhist Sabbath". The Buddhist Sabbath doesn't fall on the say day every week, like the Jewish, Christian, or Muslim holy days, but instead changes week by week, based on the lunar calendar.


As it turned out, it was Wan Phra when we were in Vientiane, and all of the temples were decorated with prayer flags, and were bustling with people. We had already seen most everything there is to see in Vientiane, so we spent the day strolling through the town, popping in and out of temples along the way. Near the river, we came across a tiny but new-looking Chinese-style temple. It was the only one of the sort that we had seen in the heavily Theravada Buddhist Laos.




Vientiane is a small city, and it's easily crossed by foot. Still, we were feeling tired in the afternoon, and rested for a while at one of the town's numerous cafes. I wasn't quite ready to leave Laos, but our time in the country was nearly up. One month just wasn't long enough in Laos.

While I loved the time in Vietnam; I learned a lot, experienced so many amazing places, and ate a lot of delicious food, I wish I could have spent a little longer in Laos. It's got a much slower pace than Vietnam. The country is more rural, quieter, more peaceful. Vietnam is hectic, modern, colorful, and crazy. They are both amazing countries, but in completely different ways.


Now, I look forward to my next adventure. Who knows where I'll be heading next?...


Thursday, October 25, 2018

Over the Mountains

When we boarded the VIP Day Bus back to Vientiane, I was sad to say goodbye to Luang Prabang. I was sadder still to be once again setting out on the grueling and nauseating mountain road between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng.


The bus didn't look all that bad, and we set out right on time at 8:00 am. The bus wasn't very full, and we settled in to our seats not exactly hopeful for a comfortable journey, but at least not dreading it as much as we would have been on a minibus.


Our optimism was short-lived, however. Just about an hour outside of Luang Prabang, as we started up the twisting and winding mountain road, the bus came to a stop. Heavy rains the night before had caused mudslides that washed out part of the road, and a construction crew was trying to dig it back out. The driver shut off the air-conditioning, and we all quickly exited the bus instead of baking inside. This took a few hours. Finally, very delayed, we were back on the road.


I can't deny that the scenery was incredible, though.


Another hour later, we once again came to a stop, but this time, fortunately, for only half an hour. It seems that a part of the engine had fallen out, and the drivers had to stick it back in with a piece of  bamboo. I guess that worked, because we were able to continue on our journey, winding incredibly slowly across the hairpin turns and winding mud roads of the mountains.


We were supposed to arrive in Vientiane at 4pm, but there was never any hope of that. We hadn't even passed the mountains by 4. We finally stopped at the lunch stop around 5pm, where we were served a quick bowl of hot noodles.



We arrived in Vientiane around 10pm, every one of us onboard exhausted and grumpy. We were back at the good old (cheap) Orange Backpacker's Guesthouse at 11pm. The next day was spent in Vientiane; our last full day in Laos.

Tuesday, October 23, 2018

The Streets of Luang Prabang

It's time to start wrapping up my posts about my visit to Luang Prabang, Laos. Here, I'll share some photos that didn't really fit in with any other blog post, but which I thought really showed some of the charm of the sleepy city on the Mekong River. There's something special about Luang Prabang, something that made me want to stay long after I had seen everything that there was to see.


Perhaps it was the mix of historic buildings and French colonial charm that could be seen in every corner of the city, interspersed between ancient Buddhist temples, pagodas, and palaces.


Maybe it was the laid-back atmosphere - people spend their mornings at a cafe with a copy of the Vientiane Times sipping an iced cafe Lao and looking out over the slow-moving river.


Whatever it was, Luang Prabang has a certain draw. The city is magical, there's no denying that. It's a small city, quiet, peaceful. I could spend hours walking up and down along the river.


On one of our last days in town, we visited the Silk Road Cafe at Ock Pop Tok, an initiative that encourages traditional Laotian silk and handicrafts.


Here, you can buy beautiful Lao silks handmade by local people, and the proceeds go to help support both traditional crafts and the local community. Everything in Luang Prabang is colorful, from the glittering golden temples to the hill tribe textile shops. The entire city exudes charm, and I can't wait to go back as soon as I can.


Maybe, if I'm lucky, I'll be able to visit during Pimai, the traditional Laotian New Year, which is in April every year. We'll see!


Saturday, October 20, 2018

Temple Hopping in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is the heart of Lao Buddhism, so it's no surprise that the city, despite its small population, has more than its proportionate number of unique historical temples.

Over 30 of these temples, in fact, are UNESCO-recognized World Heritage Sites!


While I don't know the name and history of every one of these temples, I thought I would write one big mega-post sharing my photos of the cool historical temples in Luang Prabang, and a bit about them, if I know it.

The first is Vat Phra Mahathat, the Temple of the Great Stupa. This huge stone chedi, which is the temple's namesake, holds a relic of the Buddha, and was spared the destruction of Luang Prabang in the 18th century.


The sack of Luang Prabang was carried out by a band of ethnically-Chinese marauders called the Black Flag Army. This event was one of the factors that ultimately led to Laos turning to the French for help, which eventually led to Laotian incorporation into French Indochina.

One of the temples that was razed, and subsequently re-built with French help, was Vat Visoun. The main temple hall is built in a squat, square, whitewashed, western style and topped with a Lao-style roof.


Vat Visoun is affectionately known as the "Watermelon Temple" by locals and tourists, due to the uniquely round chedi on the temple grounds.


The inside of the temple is also something of a museum, housing hundreds of old and historical Buddha images.


In Southeast Asian art, the post of a Buddha statue has a special and specific meaning. A Buddha with one hand raised, for example, is a signal to stop fighting. Luang Prabang, though, has a very unique style of Buddha post that is found only in the city: the Buddha stands with his arms straight out at his sides.


This standing Buddha image is found only in Luang Prabang Kingdom art, and signifies the Buddha calling for rain. In a landlocked and mountainous nation like Laos, rain is vital for the growth of the rice crops, and therefore for the survival of the population. It's no wonder that this style of statue is so popular in Luang Prabang!


Another temple is Vat Aham. This temple dates back to the 18th century, like most in Luang Prabang, but its origins are much older. Long before it was a Buddhist temple, it was the site to a temple to the ancient guardian spirits of Luang Prabang. The spirits are said to reside in the two stone chedis that still stand on the temple grounds.


A devout Laotian king ordered the shrine be re-built as a Buddhist temple, but the guardian spirits are still an important part of Luang Prabang culture. During the Laotian New Year (Pi Mai), which takes place in April every year, a parade honoring the guardian spirits marches through the city.


We also visited Vat Sensoukharam, the Temple of One Hundred Thousand Treasures. This temple was renovated in 1957, on the 2500th birthday of the Buddha, and the beginning of the 25th Buddhist Era. Its name refers to the 100,000 stones that were taken from the Mekong River to build the original temple building.


Again, we can see a tall golden Buddha statue in the typical Luang Prabang pose standing in a shrine just outside of the temple hall.



Buddhism is everywhere you look in Luang Prabang. The Communist regime in Laos, like in Vietnam, was never able to attempt to quash religion. In fact, Laos is such a deeply religious country that Communism never could have taken hold if it had been as anti-religion as in the USSR or other Communist nations.


Everywhere you turn there's another monk walking in the sun beneath his saffron umbrella, another glittering golden temple, another small local spirit house. There's a reason that Luang Prabang is considered to be Laos' holy city.

After a while, all of the temples begin running together. While they may all be unique and different, there are only so many temples that a tourist can visit before they all sort of become one.


I tried to visit all 33 or so of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city, but I quickly lost track of how many I had seen and which ones I missed. It doesn't matter though. Most of Luang Prabang's draw that makes it so enchanting to visitors isn't the specific sites that you can see, but rather its atmosphere.


I stayed there for a month and saw nearly everything there was to see within the first few days... and it wasn't nearly long enough! Luang Prabang really did captivate me. It's a city that I hope to return to, and sooner rather than later.

Thursday, October 18, 2018

The Luang Prabang Night Market (and a cute puppy)

Today, I'm going to tell you about the Luang Prabang Night Market. But first, I would like to introduce a  new friend! This little guy lives at the guest house where we were staying. He's just a few months old, and the cutest little dude you can imagine! Honestly, I can't think of a better life for a puppy than to be a hotel dog - they get to spend all day meeting new friends and being around people!

hotel puppy!
I was kind of surprised  to find that food in Laos was a bit on the expensive side. That is, compared to Vietnam and Thailand, anyway.

stuff for sale at  the night market
That's why it was so great to discover the night market in Luang Prabang! It was a pretty quiet evening when we first visited. In fact, the thunder was rumbling in the sky and it seemed as if it was about to rain at any minute. We spent a few minutes looking over the souvenir stalls, but the vendors were packing up because of the weather. We had to find a covered area to explore instead. That's how we ended up down a narrow little alleyway full of food.

the food court at the night market

Read my review of the Luang Prabang Night Market on my food blog HERE.

The world-famous Luang Prabang night buffet is every budget traveler's dream. Tables and tables full of dishes are available to choose from. All you have to do is pay 15,000 kip (about $2), and they give you a bowl that you can fill up with as much rice, noodles, and vegetables as you want!

vegetarian buffet at the night market

Everything at the buffet is vegetarian, but there's a barbecue too. You can order grilled meat on the side for extra money.

amazing selection of dishes to choose from
But it's almost impossible not to be able to fill up at the buffet! Every dish is so bright and colorful.

Hungry? Just fill up a bowl!

delicious!

You can read more about the amazing food that Pinky and I have eaten during our travels on our side project, a blog called "World of Street Food". There, we post all of the delicious dishes that we try as we continue on our adventures across Asia.

world-of-street-food.blogspot.com

Sunday, October 14, 2018

Je: The Vegetarian Festival

It's "Je" time again! 

During the month of October, restaurants, shops, supermarkets, and street vendors begin displaying a yellow and red flag that looks something like this:


This means that the food sold there is "Je", or appropriate to eat during the nine day Vegetarian festival! The flag may look like it says 17 (that's what I thought for the longest time), but it actually is the word "Je" written in Thai (เจ) stylized to look like Chinese writing.

a supermarket in Bangkok ready for the festival

It's not just a vegetarian festival, though that's how it is normally translated. Actually, it's closer to vegan. During this time, participants abstain from eating meat, poultry, seafood, any animal products (eggs, milk, etc), or any strong vegetables or spices (garlic, onion, chives, and more).

Even the minimarts get in on it! The neighborhood 7-11 is offering tons of Je options, including substitute meat products.


Saturday, October 13, 2018

Cafe Hopping in Luang Prabang

Like Vietnam and northern Thailand, parts of Laos are ideal for coffee cultivation. And, like in Vietnam, we can partially thank the French colonists for today's Laotian cafe culture. While in my opinion, Lao coffee isn't quite as good as Vietnamese coffee (I never had a single coffee in Vietnam that was anything short of excellent), visiting a cafe every few days is a great way to enjoy the slow and relaxed lifestyle in Luang Prabang.


After all, everyone loves coffee. I love coffee, monks love coffee...


Another great thing about Laos is the pastries! I've mentioned before how Laos was colonized by France as part of the protectorate of Indochina.


That, of course, comes with its own baggage of history and issues that we won't really get into here, but it can't be denied that the European cafe and bakery culture has really left its mark on Luang Prabang!


Every street is packed with these open-air cafes, known by name to travelers through Indochina: Saffron, Indigo, Joma, and more. Each one conjures up memories of lazy afternoons spent along the Mekong River with an iced glass of Cafe Lao.


The trendier neighborhoods in Bangkok are starting to develop a coffee culture of their own. I like that! Nowadays, as I work mostly online, it's nice to get out of the house and do some work at a cafe. I hope that the US can follow! Last time I was home, it was hard to find a cafe that wasn't a branch of Starbucks (I admit that I am a sucker for Starbucks but $$$).