Only in Malaysia: Coffee Edition

I got back from Malaysia a while ago, and decided to write a new post. I had started a series called "Only in Thailand", but I realized that since I travel a lot around Southeast Asia, I get to try a lot of weird and unusual foods. I've changed this series to "Only in...", and I'll write about the things I try wherever I go.

This series is about the strange and delicious local twists on international chains. Today's post is about Nescafe canned coffee in Malaysia.

Rose Latte

The first strange coffee that I tried in Malaysia was this Rose Latte. Like the name suggests, it's rose flavored. I'm not sure if you've had rose before, but it's kind of a weird flavor. It's sweet, but tastes very artificial. I wasn't really a huge fan of this one.

Tarik Kaw - Traditional Malaysian Coffee

Next up, coffee "tarik", the national coffee drink of Malaysia! Local coffee is traditionally brewed in tiny carts and stalls along the streets. Vendors will mix it up with sweetened condensed milk and "pull", or pour it from one steel cup to another, aerating it, giving the coffee a frothy texture. I liked this one, especially because it represent a big part of Malaysia's coffee culture.

Nescafe Ais - weird cooling coffee

Last, but certainly not least, was the Nescafe "Ais" (Ice). This one really shocked me, because from the look and name, I was expecting just a regular iced coffee. Not so! After my first taste, I physically recoiled from surprise. It wasn't just an iced coffee, but was made with the same weird menthol taste as those odd chips I had a couple of weeks ago! After just a sip, my mouth was cold. Weird.

Morning Merit

It's 7:00 AM in Bangkok, and the sun has just barely begun to come up. It's early, but I've already been up for a few hours.

The pet hospital where my girlfriend works has recently bought a new MRI machine. In true Thai Buddhist fashion, the owners have arranged a blessing ceremony to, for lack of a better word, christen the machine.

This isn't an uncommon event. New condos, hotels and shopping malls, and even new runways, and air control towers are all blessed by Buddhist monks before their grand openings. This is the first time that I've gotten to attend this particular ceremony, though it reminded me a lot of the School's Birthday ceremony which I used to attend.

making merit

First, the monks were fed a breakfast and coffee by the owners of the hospital. While they were eating, Pinky and I had a coffee from a nearby cafe. Presently, one of the assistants came by and handed us a tray loaded with flower garlands. We were to raise the silver tray above our heads and make a wish. This tray was then presented to the monks.

Soon, it was time for the ceremony to begin. The doctors, assistants, and I knelt on bamboo mats in front of the monks, who lit candles and incense, and passed a spool of white string between them. Holding the string between their hands in a wai, each monk was linked with his brothers. They began chanting.

The ceremony lasted around twenty minutes while the monks chanted their prayers and blessings from the Pali Canon of Theravada Buddhism.

It's these moments from Thailand that I'll never forget; the small moments when I, as an outsider, am welcomed into the culture and given a place in local life that a tourist wouldn't have. Though my legs fell asleep and my back hurt something terrible from the rigid meditation post we all had taken, I wouldn't trade the experience for anything.

Songkran Lunch at Al Meroz

Songkran is here!

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The three-day traditional Thai new year and Buddhist water festival is once again upon us. Bangkok has emptied as people take time off work and head back to their home provinces, and the city gears up for its annual water gun fight.

a tiny shrine at the subway station

I've participated in the Songkran festivities before, but it's really something that you've got to do in a group. This year, all of my friends are working or busy, and Songkran isn't so fun alone.

another shrine at the Airport Rail Link Station

I was planning to stay in and stay dry, but was very happy when my old friend and former boss gave me a call inviting me to lunch.

yet another shrine at the Metro Mall inside the MRT station

We met up around lunchtime, and caught a cab to the nearby Al Meroz Hotel. My boss told me that this is one of his favorite places to have lunch in Bangkok. I had seen the arabesque golden domes of the Al Meroz before, but never knew what it was.

at the Al Meroz Hotel

"Have as much as you like. We've got to get our money's worth", he told me. He paused and shook his head as we entered the lobby. "Just don't try to order a beer."

lunch with my old boss

As it turns out, the Al Meroz is a luxury hotel, and Bangkok's premier "halal hotel", meaning that it's built, run by, and caters mostly (though not exclusively) to Muslim tourists. The hotel serves only halal dishes, and has separate hours for men and women to use the gym and swimming pool. It's also very, very nice.

inside the hotel

Lunch was a buffet consisting of some delicious food. There was dim sum, roti and curry, soups of all kinds, roast lamb, and even pizza. Of course, when you are treated to a buffet, you must take your time! Geoffrey and I stayed there for over an hour, talking and eating. We enjoyed several cups of coffee and tea.

the lobby of the hotel

The best part though was the dessert. There were dozens of tiny cakes and puddings, and I had to stop myself from trying every single one.

Siracha

The Thai school year has come to a close and the school's graduation ceremony has passed. It's hard to believe that it's been a year now since I left my old school and started a new expat life. It's now officially summer. The skies have become a brilliant clear blue, and the weather grows hotter by the day - it's the perfect time for an island getaway!

My old friend and colleague, Chris, invited me on a one-night trip to Koh Sichang, one of the nearest islands to Bangkok. He needed to unwind after a busy school year, and it was so great to catch up with him.

leaving the ferry pier in Siracha

We met in Bangkok before dawn and headed to the bus terminal. From there, we caught a bus along the eastern cost to the town of Siracha, just an hour and a half or so outside of the city. While it shares the name with the famous sauce, siracha sauce is actually an American-made, Vietnamese-inspired sauce, and has nothing to do with Thailand!

In Siracha, we departed from the tourist pier on a rickety wooden ferry, and after 40 minutes of cruising through the clear gulf water, we arrived on the island around 11am.

on the island ferry

I've visited Koh Sichang just once before on a rainy weekend, but it's been a few years. It was nice to go back again, and to see the island outside of the rainy season.

arriving at Koh Sichang

One of the teachers from our school, who Chris is close with, owns a small beach house on Koh Sichang and let us stay there for free! While Sichang may not be the most beautiful or famous island in Thailand, there's nothing like looking out the window to see the ocean.

from the porch of the beach house

It's a great island for relaxation. There are some things to do, but not enough that you'll be exhausted. Mostly, Koh Sichang is a good place to get away from your stress and unwind for a day or two.

afternoon at the beach house

One thing that I really love about Koh Sichang is that it's cheap. Unlike a lot of other islands in Thailand, Koh Sichang doesn't get many tourists or foreign visitors. Most people who come to the island are either Thai or expats, so there's not so much of a tourism industry. Food is reasonably priced, and there are plenty of free things to do.

flowers at the Summer Palace

One free thing that we did was visit the former site of King Chulalongkorn's Summer Palace, Phra Chuthathut. The king built his summer palace on the island at the end of the 19th century. It was the only royal palace in Thailand built on an island! In the early 20th century, the French invaded Thailand in the Franco-Siamese Wars. France had already colonized neighboring Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia, and was trying to add Siam to their Indochina colonies. The french took over Koh Sichang, but were eventually forced to retreat by victorious Siamese forces. After the war, the king had the palace moved piece by piece to Bangkok, where it still stands to this day.

visiting the palace on Koh Sichang

The foundation of the palace is still there, and so are a few of the old turn-of-the-century buildings. Now, the old buildings have been turned into a museum. There's no dress code, unlike most palaces in Thailand, and there's no entry fee.

the royal chapel

To me, though, the coolest place at the palace is a small Buddhist shrine built up in the hills on the way to the island's viewpoint. King Chulalongkorn traveled extensively in Europe, and was inspired by the architecture that he saw there. You'll see this reflected in the buildings that he built during his reign, such as the Grand Palce in Bangkok and Hua Lampong Rail Station. Here, this small Buddhist shrine looks almost like a Christian church.

shrine at the palace

The exterior is whitewashed, and inside you'll find marble floors, an altar, and even stained-glass windows. It's a perfect reflection of the blend of architectural styles that was popular in Thailand around the turn of the century.

inside the shrine

Of course, it goes the other way, too! There's even a Catholic church in Bangkok that looks something like a Thai Buddhist temple! I'll have to visit and write about that one sometime soon.

marble and stained glass

Despite the day's heat and the hot tropical sun, we hiked up the hill to the island's viewpoint. There, we had a cool breeze and a beautiful view of the surrounding seaside.

island viewpoint

Back down from the viewpoint, we paid a visit to the monument to King Chulalongkorn, then headed back across the island to the beach.

monument to the king

There's really only one beach on Koh Sichang. While the island doesn't exactly have the white sands and crystal clear waters that Thailand is known for, Tham Phang Beach is still pretty, and is never overly crowded.

evening at the beach

It's moments like this that remind me that I'm really here. I've lived in Thailand for several years now, spending most of my time in Bangkok. Life has become pretty normal. I have a routine. I wake up, go to work, shop at the supermarket, and occasionally go to the cinema. I do the same normal things that I would do anywhere, and Bangkok just feels like another city to me now. It's home, and it no longer feels exotic. I know my way around, and I know how things work. It doesn't even feel like a different country to me anymore.

Tham Phang Beach

However, when I do get the chance to travel around Thailand, that old feeling comes back to me. When I stand on a tropical island and stick my feet in the warm water, I realize how lucky I really am to be living here. I should take more advantage of where I live. I used to be good about getting out every week and exploring. Lately I've become complacent, and have fallen into a routine. Thailand's not a boring country, though. Why should I be? I'm going to try harder to make the most out of my time here, and to really appreciate what I have.

a beautiful afternoon on a sandy beach

In the evening, we rode back to the beach house. There's a small resort next to where we were staying, so we headed to the hotel's restaurant for dinner. Koh Sichang is surprisingly affordable, and even a super big portion of a Thai seafood dinner only cost a few dollars.

watching the sunset

I ordered soft shell crab fried rice. Fried soft shell crab is one of my all-time favorite delicacies, and I was really excited when it was on the menu. I was even more excited with the portion size - two full fried crabs! The best part was, the whole dish only cost 180 THB, that's only about $6!

soft shell crab fried rice!

We only stayed on Koh Sichang for one night, but it was a great trip. I've been traveling a lot lately, but it hasn't really been relaxing. Most of my trips have been visa runs, and while I've done some sightseeing, I've spent most of the time away working. This was my first real vacation in a while, and it was much appreciated.

good morning, Koh Sichang!

Masjid Negara - the National Mosque of Malaysia

Malaysia's National Mosque was designed and built in the 1960s, and it definitely looks like it! The mosque is designed in a modern futuristic style which looks awesomely retro nowadays.

the National Mosque

When the Federation of Malaya (which included Western Malaysia and Singapore but not Borneo) gained independence from the British Empire in 1957, the government of the newly-unified federation of sultanates and states worked hard to create a unifying culture for the nation. Even after Malaya was disolved in 1963, after which Singapore became independence and parts of Borneo joined the federation, the new Malaysia continued this task. Part of building a unifying cuture was the construction of the Masjid Negara, the National Mosque of Malaysia.

Masjid Negara

Like at other mosques in Malaysia, visitors are welcome to enter the National Mosque during certain hours. I ended up waiting for much of the afternoon in the bright Malaysian sun so that I could get the chance to go inside the country's most important holy site.

the mosque's minaret

While the mosque may not be quite as impressive as the Pink Mosque, it's still a sight to see. The prayer hall is built in a blue-tiled 16-pointed star, and the minaret rises high above a cool fountain. Some areas were restricted to praying Muslims, but for the most part, visitors were allowed to explore the building.

the prayer hall

The mosque is large enough to hold 15,000 worshipers, and it fills up during Friday prayers, when it is attended by Malaysian government ministers and lawmakers.

visiting the National Mosque

Behind the mosque is the National Hero's Mausoleum. Here, some of Malaysia's most important national heroes, such as former prime ministers, are interred in a place of surpeme honor at the nation's National Mosque.

the final resting place for Malaysia's most important figures

The prayer hall was undergoing renovations when I visited, although we were still able to poke our heads in and snap photos. The stained glass windows above the prayer hall look really beautiful. It will look great once the renovations are finished.

inside the prayer hall

Central Market

Central Market, a Kuala Lumpur institution, was founded in 1888. Originally a wet market, the market in downtown KL now sells mostly food and souvenirs to tourists. The market's current art-deco building was built in 1937 as a sort of proto-shopping mall, and it's as popular today as it's ever been.

Central Market, Kuala Lumpur

The interior of the market is comfortably air-conditioned, making it fairly unique among Southeast Asia's famous markets! Hundreds of stalls and shops sell all sorts of goods, and if you get hungry, there's plenty to eat too.

inside Central Market

It was a hot day when I visited the market. I was waiting for the opening hours at the National Mosque nearby, and spent some time wandering through the souvenir stalls.

the market is always busy

Of course, I couldn't leave without having a bit to eat! I sat down a a local restaurant and ordered the first thing I saw on the menu: nasi lemak, the national dish of Malaysia! Nasi lemak is traditionally a breakfast food, though it can be eaten throughout the day. The dish consists of a big scoop of rice topped with a fried egg served with a variety of small sides that all mix up into a flavorful bite. The dish is generally served with cucumbers, boiled peanuts, and spicy fish.

a great Malaysian meal and an iced coffee

The old Central Market building is kind of small, though, and today the market has spilled over into the surrounding streets. There, you'll find even more food, souvenir shops, and art for sale. It's a lively, energetic, and exciting area in Kuala Lumpur.

more stalls outside of Central Market

Masjid Jamek

The Masjid Jamek is located right in the center of Kuala Lumpur, its onion domes an iconic part of the city's old town skyline.

the roofs of Masjid Jamek

Masjid Jamek is one of the oldest mosques in Kuala Lumpur. It was designed and built by an English architect in 1909 in a blend of Moorish and Indian Mughal architectural styles, and paid for by the British colonial government. Until the construction of Malaysia's National Mosque in the 1960s, Masjid Jamek more or less filled that role and served as the city's main mosque.

the entrance to the mosque

I was exploring old central KL on foot when I walked past the mosque. I hadn't really planned to visit - I didn't even know that you could - but when I walked past, I noticed on the sign that it was the visiting hours, so I decided to go in. A caretaker working at the entrance had me sign a guestbook.

inside the prayer hall

"Where are you from?" the caretaker asked me.

"The United States."

"The third one this morning!" he pointed in the guestbook to a previous entry. "There were two from Los Angeles."

"I'm from Texas!" I told him.

"Ah!" he made finger guns, like a cowboy shooting in the air. "Don't mess with Texas!"

the courtyard of the mosque

The mosque is built on top of an old Malay burial ground, and there are plaques and memorials in the mosque's courtyard. The courtyard itself is one of the most tranquil spots in KL, with leafy palm trees and cool fountains.

Masjid Jamek is small, but beautiful

The mosque sits along the banks of KL's two converging rivers. Although it's small, you can see the iconic white domes from all over central KL. Though I hadn't planned to visit, I just happened to be in the right place at the right time. This is one reason why I prefer exploring the city on foot - you never know what you might discover while walking.

gardens and foundtains at the mosque

Bird Park and Eco Forest Park

Kuala Lumpur Bird Park

Kuala Lumpur is a city built in the jungle. For being a capital city, it's fairly small (around 1.5 million) and fairly green. KL has a few really great parks and natural areas where you can see glimpses of the jungle right in the heart of the city. The famous KL Bird Park is one of the best places to see nature in Malaysia's capital.

a wild peacock

The Bird Park is the world's largest free-flight aviary. After buying a ticket, you enter a 20-acre area of jungle, netted off with a net high above the trees. In the park, a trail runs through the jungle, and exotic tropical birds are free to fly and roam around.

exploring the bird park

I didn't really know what to expect, but I certainly wasn't disappointed! As soon as I stepped into the park, I was greeted by a sleepy peacock and a half dozen cranes milling about by the entrance.

a crane

The park really is free-flight. The birds can fly wherever they want. There are some areas where they can go to get away from the people, but mostly they are used to tourists and don't mind hanging out at the feeding stations set up along the path.

some sort of tropical bird

It was really hot that day - it's the hottest part of the year over here in Southeast Asia - but despite the stifling heat out in the city, it was surprisingly comfortable underneath the shade of the jungle trees growing in the Bird Park.

another peacock

The Bird Park is home to 3000 birds of over 200 different species! Most birds are native to Malaysia, but some come from other nearby tropical regions. It's one of the biggest avian research stations in the tropics.

and another crane

The Bird Park is located just across the street from the (free) Orchid Park. Orchids grow really well in Malaysia's warm, humid, tropical climate.

orchids

Eco Forest Park

After leaving the Bird Park, I caught a taxi to the KL Eco Forest Park, a forest reserve that was established right in the middle of Kuala Lumpur back in 1906. Today, it's still a preserved area, complete with hiking trails, a forestry museum, and even a camping area. It's kind of amazing to see this piece of wild jungle right in the middle of a big city!

canopy walk

I visited the park on a weekday, and I had the whole place to myself! I set out on the Canopy Walk, a series of raised platforms and swaying rope bridges suspended high above the jungle floor, and didn't see another soul on the walk.

at the Eco Forest Park

The Canopy Walk was great, but I wouldn't recommend it if you don't like heights. The bridges swayed and bounded as I walked on them, and the ground was very far below. The walk took me over the top of the forest park, giving me a contrasting view of the jungle below and the city all around.

high above the ground

This is something that I really appreciate about Kuala Lumpur; despite being a busy capital city, the city planners seem to understand the importance of maintaining the natural landscape and preserving the local ecology. It leads to places like the Bird Park or the Eco Forest Park, which are welcome escapes from the bustle of the city.

surrounded by nature

The KL Tower, the world's 7th-tallest communications tower and KL's other famous landmark (after the twin towers) is located just next to the exit of the Forest Park. I didn't buy a ticket to go up, but I've heard that the view from the tower's viewing platform is really remarkable. Maybe next time!

KL Tower