KL Tower

On a cold, drizzly, rainy morning in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, I stepped out of a taxi at the foot of the KL Tower, a 421 meter tall telecommunications and observation tower in KL and one of the city's most famous landmarks. 

The KL Tower is the seventh tallest tower in the world and the tallest in Southeast Asia. It was built between 1991 and 1996 and officially opened by the Prime Minister of Malaysia on 1 October 1996.

KL Tower offers a panoramic view of the city from its observation deck and revolving restaurant. The tower is seen as a symbol of Malaysia’s technological advancement and cultural diversity.

Since my first visit to Kuala Lumpur years ago, I'd wanted to visit the tower. I finally decided to buy a ticket to the observation deck, which cost about $20 USD.

As I waited in line for the elevator, I admired the multi-faceted domed roof of the lobby. A plaque informed me that the mirrored dome was constructed by artisans from KL's sister city, Esfahan, Iran, and that it is meant to symbolically represent the rays of the sun as a "fatwa", or a symbol of Quranic advice on human life. Geometric patterns are important in Islamic art, as I learned 4 years ago when I visited KL's Museum of Islamic Art.

The Blog of Michael Desrosiers: Museum of Islamic Art

The views from the observation room were spectacular! Despite the drizzly weather, the air was clear, and I could see for miles all around!

Maybe next time I'll book a ticket up the Petronas towers, but this is the second-best thing!

Far below me, I could see the dense forests of the KL Eco Forest Park.

The Blog of Michael Desrosiers: Bird Park and Eco Forest Park

I finally got my clearest view yet of the Merdeka PNB 118, which displaced the Petronas Towers as Malaysia's tallest building.

Merdeka (which means "Independence") was finished in 2021 while Malaysia's borders were closed due to the pandemic. At 678.9 m (2,227 ft) tall, it is the second-tallest structure and the second-tallest building in the world, behind Dubai's Burj Khalifa at 828 m (2,717 ft)! 

Now, it is the tallest building in Southeast Asia, and the first skyscraper in the country to receive a triple platinum rating from worldwide sustainability certifications.

Malaysia is famous for its tall buildings. From 1998 until 2003, the Petronas Towers were the tallest buildings in the world, until they were surpassed by Taiwan's Taipei 101.

I've never been up the Petronas towers, but I'd love to... maybe next time! Even if they aren't the world's tallest buildings anymore, they are an iconic Malaysian landmark, and a recognizable manmade wonder in the world.

the Petronas Towers

In the distance, if I zoomed my phone's camera to its max, I could just barely make out the golden domes of the Royal Palace. The Istana Negara is the official residence of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong, the monarch of Malaysia.

Malaysia's monarchy is fascinating! Malaysia has a unique rotating monarchy system where the position of the king, known as the Yang di-Pertuan Agong, is rotated among the nine hereditary rulers, or sultans, of the country's states every five years. The sultans themselves are hereditary monarchs and have a great degree of autonomy over their independent states, or sultanates.

The system was established in 1957 when Malaysia gained independence from the British Empire and was designed to ensure that no single state dominates the monarchy. The rotation is based on the order of seniority of the rulers, with each state taking its turn to supply the king. While the monarchy has largely ceremonial duties, it is highly respected and plays an important role in Malaysia's political and cultural identity.

The Blog of Michael Desrosiers: KL

I descended the tower and walked through the grey, drizzly day to the adjacent KL Eco Forest Park.

The KL Eco Forest Park is a forest reserve located in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Spanning over 9.3 hectares, the park is a popular green space in the city that offers a range of recreational activities and serves as an important ecological corridor.

The Blog of Michael Desrosiers: Bird Park and Eco Forest Park

The park, which dates back to 1906, was originally built by the British colonial government as a forest reserve in the heart of the bustling capital city. Today, it even has several campsites! I really wish that Bangkok had a place to go camping right in the city.

The park features several walking trails, an observation tower, a canopy walkway, and a forest museum. Visitors can enjoy the tranquility of the forest and take in the stunning views of the city skyline from the tower and canopy walkway. The park also serves as an important habitat for various species of flora and fauna, including birds, insects, and small mammals, and is an important part of the city's efforts to promote urban green spaces and preserve the natural environment.

It was raining. I tried not to let it bother me, but it made the walkway extremely difficult and slippery to walk. I got soaked, but I really enjoyed a walk through nature in the middle of the city.

I just think it's fantastic how the city preserves this incredible green jungle in the midst of a huge city! It's really admirable.

I took in the nature, and appreciated the jungle sounds all around me. Because of the dreary weather, I was the only visitor at the park, and I enjoyed the quiet moments alone in nature.

Spontaneous KL

I made a mistake...

I didn't plan ahead!

flying into Malaysia

I knew that my visa was going to expire soon, but I planned on renewing it after we returned from our trip to Udon Thani.

I just forgot to check the calendar, and realized while we were on our vacation that my visa was due to expire on the weekend, meaning that the immigration office would be closed.

a cloudy morning in the air

I had to book a last-minute ticket for a visa run, and ended up buying the cheapest flight I could find for the next morning, which took me to...

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia!

the airport monorail

I actually really like Malaysia. I didn't necessarily feel happy about having to spend the money on a visa run, but KL is a cool city, and I'm always happy to visit.

It turned out that the first night I was there was actually the night of an important Hindu festival called Thaipusam! Thaipusam is a Hindu festival celebrated in Kuala Lumpur to honor the Hindu god Murugan. Devotees undertake a procession carrying ornately decorated structures called kavadis, which symbolize burdens they have overcome or seek help to overcome. The procession culminates in a climb up the steps of the Batu Caves temple, where offerings are made and prayers are offered.

I arrived in the evening, so I wasn't able to make it to the caves to witness the procession, but the night sky was alive with the cracking of colorful fireworks from the city's numerous Hindu temples.

Thaipusam festivities in Kuala Lumpur

What makes Kuala Lumpur - and indeed Malaysia as a whole - so interesting is how diverse and multicultural it is. Due to its long history as a British colony and a part of the Raj, Malaysia is now home to three main ethnic groups: Malay, Chinese, and Indian, each with their unique language, culture, and traditions.

The Malay community, which makes up the majority of the population, is predominantly Muslim and has a significant influence on the country's politics, culture, and customs. 

a beautiful mosque in Kuala Lumpur

The Chinese community, which is primarily Buddhist, celebrates Chinese New Year, the Mooncake Festival, and Qing Ming, the festival of ancestral remembrance. The Indian community, which includes Hindus, Muslims, and Sikhs, celebrates Deepavali, the Festival of Lights, Thaipusam, and the Tamil New Year.

a Malay-Chinese neighborhood in KL

The Indian community, which includes Hindus, Muslims, and Sikhs, celebrates Deepavali, the Festival of Lights, Thaipusam, and the Tamil New Year.

the roof of a colorful Hindu temple

This also leads to an amazing food culture... Malaysian food is some of my favorite in Southeast Asia!

The Blog of Michael Desrosiers: Eating Well in Penang

Kuala Lumpur (called "KL" by those cool enough to do so 😎) is technically the capital of Malaysia, although it's actually sort of a confusing situation.

KL and nearby Putrajaya are both cities in Malaysia that have served as the country's capital at different times. Kuala Lumpur is the largest city in Malaysia and was the capital until 1999 when the government moved the administrative center to Putrajaya, a planned city located south of KL (which I visited a few years ago when I paid a visit to the breathtaking Pink Mosque).

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

KL remains the cultural, economic, and financial center of Malaysia. On the other hand, Putrajaya was built to be Malaysia's new administrative center, with the intention of relieving congestion and overcrowding in KL. It is a planned city with modern and sophisticated architecture, spacious boulevards, and abundant green spaces. Putrajaya is home to many government buildings, including the Prime Minister's office, ministries, and other government agencies.

Today, KL is an incredible mix of old and new, with historic colonial architecture butting up against glistening skyscrapers and megamalls. (In fact, the Petronas Towers in KL were once the largest building in the world from 1998-2004). 

The Blog of Michael Desrosiers: Kuala Lumpur

Today, they are no longer the tallest building in KL... That distinction goes to the brand-new Merdeka PNB 118, which can be seen all across the city (picture on the left).

I spend three nights in KL, which meant I had two days to explore the city. Unfortunately, since I hadn't exactly planned to take the trip, my work schedule was full and I only really had the mornings to go out and do stuff.

minarets of the mosque

I still made the most of my time, taking long walks and admiring the unique and colorful architecture of the bustling and modern city. I did a few really fun things (which you will read about in an upcoming post or two) and had some nice food and amazing coffee.

I'll be writing about my brief visit to KL in the coming days, but I did want to share an interesting story that a taxi driver told me.

As we drove past a very fancy luxury mall, the driver (who was from Melaka, and very proud of it!) pointed out the window to a beautiful whitewashed concrete gate.

"That used to be the gate to a prison during the British colonial times", he told me in perfect English. "But during the Second World War, the Japanese turned it into a prison camp."

"It is haunted", he pronounced, matter-of-factly. "If you walk in the mall late at night, you can hear the crying and the screaming of the prisoners. When they built the mall, they left the prison gate up as a reminder of what happened there."

The Red Lotus Lake

Just once a year, a remarkable phenomenon takes place in Udon Thani. The "Talay Bua Daeng", or "Red Lotus Lake", bursts into colorful bloom every year around February.

We had hired a driver from the hotel, who turned out to be the very driver that we had taken from the airport the day before!

He picked us up at the hotel at half past 5. It took nearly an hour to drive to the lake, and we arrived just as the first light of dawn was beginning to illuminate the sky.

We decided to hire a private boat for 300 baht (about $10) to view the lake. Pinky and I climbed aboard the rickety boat, which rocked alarmingly as we took our seats and settled back against the wooden backrest. 

It was a tiny boat - barely wide enough for the two of us to sit side by side. Someone gave us a shove off of the shore, the driver fired up the engine, and we began moving across the still water of the lake.

It was surprisingly cold as we set out across the water, and I regretted not having brought a jacket. It had been so hot lately, that I didn't even consider it!

Talay Bua Daeng is a shallow freshwater lake that covers an area of approximately 2,500 acres, and during the winter months (December to February), it becomes covered in a sea of red lotus flowers.

Technically, the flowers aren't lotuses, but rather a special type of water lily which grows in the shallow muddy water of the lake during the cool season. 

The flowers cover nearly every part of the lake except for the clear channels where the boats drive through. The drivers are very careful to stay in the designated channels - marked by Thai flags on tall bamboo poles - so as to preserve the beautiful and delicate ecosystem of this natural wonder.

The stunning pink flowers open as the sun rises, but close around noon, so the best way to experience the lake is to arrive just before dawn.

Once we had been ferried into the center of the lake, the driver turned off the engine, and we floated in silence to watch the sunrise. The lake is so big that we felt like we had the entire place to ourselves. There didn't seem to be anyone around as far as the eye could see. It was a really magical experience!

There were lots of birds around the lake as well! We saw some Asian house swifts, black drongos, and (my favorite) lots of Grey-headed swamphens... which are much more interesting than their name suggests.

I had wanted to see this place for ages, and I'm so glad that we finally took the time to do it. It's one of those things that's always been on my list of places to see, but I've just kept putting it off for one reason or another thinking "I'll do it eventually". 

In the end, it didn't cost us much to do it, and it was so worth it. So, my advice to anyone who is reading this blog post is this:

If there's something you've always wanted to do but you keep putting it off because you'll "do it eventually"... then just do it! I'm sure you'll be glad that you did.

We stayed out on the lake for about two hours (not bad for a 300 baht tour!). 

The driver offered to take some photos of us. I got a little nervous climbing to the front of the tiny boat for the pictures, because it rocked so badly with every move, but fortunately, we were ok! 

The driver used a long bamboo pole, which he stuck in the shallow muddy water, to keep the boat steady... it turns out that the lake is only 3-5 feet deep at most parts.

Back at the dock, we bought two hot coffees at a local stall to warm up. The cold wind blowing across the water made me so cold!

It had been a fantastic early morning, and we were back in Udon Thani in time for breakfast.

Udon Thani

A few weeks ago, my wife and I took a short trip to the town of Udon Thani in northeastern Thailand. With 450,000 residents, Udon Thani is the 4th most populous city in the Issan region (northeast), and the 7th biggest city in Thailand.

We arrived around lunchtime, and after checking in at our hotel, our first stop was the (free!) Udon Thani City Museum! I had never been to Udon Thani before, and I was really interested to learn about its fascinating recent history.

During the Vietnam War, Udon Thani experienced a huge boom (very much like Pattaya) due to the US military base that operated there, not far from the border with Laos. The influx of American dollars made Udon Thani a rich city with a high level of English proficiency. There was even a US consulate in Udon Thani until the mid 90s. Now, Udon Thani is a peaceful and quiet city surrounded by national parks.

This dog is the mascot of Udon Thani

Udon Thani is also famous for its big yellow ducks. 

A big yellow rubber duck has been at the city park since 2013. Her ducklings joined later, and it's since become a sort of symbol of the city. 

According to the artist, the ducks represent "peace, freedom, and unity".

street art in Udon Thani

Feeling sleepy, we stopped in at a local cafe that we learned was operated by a local vocational college! I ordered an espresso sunrise, and Pinky and I shared a delicious honey toast.

Then, we decided to take a walk around a pond at one of the city's several beautiful parks. The city is known for its numerous beautiful parks that encourage people to get outside and enjoy the natural beauty.

It seems like the city government places a lot of emphasis on getting people outdoors. 

Even though it was a warm afternoon, there were plenty of people outside having a picnic, walking and biking, or just sitting on benches enjoying the sunny day.

One thing that Udon Thani is particularly famous for is its ancient ceramics, and there was a monument to these ceramics at the park! Udon Thani ceramics are known for their distinctive style, which is characterized by their intricate swirling designs and vibrant colors. Traditional techniques are used to create pieces that are both functional and decorative, ranging from simple dishes and bowls to elaborate vases and sculptures. The art dates back thousands of years and is the subject of several archaeological discoveries in the area.

After the park, we walked to the City Pillar Shrine, but by now we were getting a bit tired, and we knew we were going to have a very early morning the next day. After taking a few photos, we decided it was time to call it a day, head back to the hotel, and order some delicious and spicy Issan food for dinner.

The next morning we did something very special (but I'll write about that tomorrow!). In the afternoon, we decided to head back into town to visit the Thai-Chinese Cultural Center.

The center has a museum, a tea shop, a beautiful garden, a fishpond, and a small Taoist shrine.

The purpose of the center is to display and preserve the rich history and culture of the Thai-Chinese community in Udon Thani and northeastern Thailand.

The museum is called the Museum of Morality, which I thought was a weird name for a museum, but it just turned out to be about Confucius and the traditional Chinese festivals and holidays celebrated in Udon Thani each year.

We bought some fish food at the museum and fed the fish. No matter what age you are, it's always fun to do.

Behind the cultural center was a large Chinese temple that faced yet another lake and another beautiful park.

We decided to take another walk around this lake as well. We were delighted to spot some new bird species, which we added to our birding life list.

We ate at a Vietnamese restaurant for lunch. When we were asking locals what to eat, nearly every one of them listed off what we thought of as Vietnamese dishes.

Interestingly, Udon Thani is well known for its famous Vietnamese food. Well... it's not exactly Vietnamese food. I guess you could say that the local cuisine is sort of a fusion cuisine... like these Vietnamese dumpling noodles served with Thai Tom Yum broth.

A very popular snack are these little sandwiches served with pork pie, sweet Chinese sausage, and egg. It's a sort of Udon Thani take on banh mi. It was really interesting to see how different the food was from what I was used to... different even from the Issan food that I had been expecting. Everything we had was delicious, though.

And since they offered egg coffee on their menu, of course we had to order it!