Monday, January 31, 2022

Joss Paper for the Spring Festival

festive fruits for Chinese New Year

It's Chinese New Year's Eve! Today is the final day of the Year of the Ox, and tomorrow will ring in the dawn of the Year of the Tiger. All around Bangkok, red lanterns have gone up, Chinese music is playing, and stores are filled with joss paper goods for burning.

"Joss" is an anglicized word which came from the old Portuguese "Deus" meaning "God". Joss sticks is an old-fashioned word for incense, and joss paper is sometimes called "incense paper", as its purpose is to be burnt in offering.

Joss paper is burned as an aspect of Chinese ancestral worship and in offering to deities in Chinese folk religion. It's most commonly seen around the Hungry Ghost Festival, but it's a part of the Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) as well.

traditional joss paper

Traditional joss paper is made from bamboo paper decorated in gold or silver foil or various stamps and seals. It can be folded into Chinese-style ingots or bars before being burnt.


gold bars and ingots

Different types of joss paper (also known as "ghost paper" or "spirit money") are offered to different categories of spirits. Cash (traditionally in the form of copper, but also nowadays represented as luxury goods and items) are given to the recently deceased and unknown spirits. Golden joss paper (jin) are burnt in offering to deities - specifically the Jade Emperor (the Chinese god of heaven). Silver joss paper (ying) are given to ancestral spirits.

Today, however, even the spirit world has modernized. While you can still find traditional joss paper, it's even more common to see these bank notes in various denominations, which can be purchased by the bundle.

*Note: I found all of these goods for sale at my local supermarket in Bangkok.

Bank of Heaven

The banknotes were traditionally called "Hell Bank Notes", a term which developed out of the confusion caused by Portuguese missionaries who taught their Chinese converts that their (non-Christian) ancestors resided in Hell in the afterlife. Sometimes, you'll still see the unfortunate "Bank of Hell" printed on the notes, but today, it's much more common to see "Bank of Heaven" - a more accurate translation of the Chinese afterlife.


cash and coins

The bank notes usually feature an image of Yanluo Wang, the judge of the underworld, on the front. When someone burns these bank notes to send them to their departed loved ones in the afterlife, they are meant to be given in bribe to Yanluo for a shorter stay or less severe punishment before reincarnation. Chinese afterlife is somewhat similar to Christian purgatory. It is believed that punishment is not eternal, but one must atone for one's sins before moving on.

Today, it's becoming more and more common to find paper luxury goods, such as the iPad and jewelry you can see in this photo:

iPad and jewelry

Like leaving a loved one's favorite food on an altar for Dia de los Muertos in Mexican culture, followers of Chinese traditions will burn paper facsimiles of luxury goods to send to the spirits of their loved ones to use in the afterlife.

luxury makeup brands

Typically, people choose goods which the deceased would have enjoyed in life.

a set of joss goods for a man

For example, if your loved one liked to travel, you might buy them this set, which includes several credit cards, a passport, some travel brochures, and first-class tickets for an airplane and a bullet train journey.

a set of joss paper for someone who loved travel

If someone was more techy, they might get an iPad, iPhone, earbuds, a charger, and a smart watch.

tech products

Of course, you can't go wrong with cash, and some people might just prefer a nice new "VIZA" or "MatherCard" credit card with a 2099 expiration date.

credit cards
The supermarket had also set up an entire section of Chinese snacks and desserts. I'm not quite sure if they are for eating or for offering. To be honest, I don't know a ton about Thai-Chinese culture.

various snacks

possibly offerings?

Others were definitely for eating, like these sweet dessert buns which looked like oranges. Citrus is considered good luck on Chinese New Year. 

oranges for Chinese New Year

Chinese culture is all about double-meanings, and the word for "mandarin orange" in Chinese is a homophone of for "gold", so giving someone a citrus fruit is symbolic of wishing them a wealthy and prosperous year.

golden sweets

Other sweets were more literal, like these golden buns which were actually shaped like traditional Chinese golden ingots!

golden ingot buns

In preparation for the Spring Festival, the supermarket had plenty of delicious and beautiful fruit packaged up ready to be bought as gifts for your loved ones.

fruit

more fruit

Likewise, the Chinese word for "apple" sounds like the word for "peace", so giving someone an apple represents wishing them peace and happiness throughout the coming year. These apples, marked with golden Chinese characters, are very expensive!

beautiful apples

I'm looking forward to the Spring Festival this year! It's an exciting time, and even though it's not an official holiday in Thailand, it's a big deal here.

Happy New Year to all! I hope that the Year of the Tiger brings luck, health, happiness, and prosperity to you!

Sunday, January 30, 2022

Holy Rosary Bangkok

Holy Rosary is one of the oldest Catholic Churches in Bangkok. Located right along the river in the historic Talad Noi area, Holy Rosary dates back to 1769, when it was established by Portuguese Catholics who had fled Ayutthaya after its fall.

Known in Thai as Kalawar Church - a Thai transliteration of the Portuguese word "Calvario", meaning Calvary or Golgotha - the church arose as a split between two groups of Catholics. One group of Portuguese expats chose to follow a French priest across the river to Kudi Chin, where the established Santa Cruz Church. The other group established Holy Rosary on the eastern banks of the Chaophraya.

Kalawar Church, or Holy Rosary

I visited the church as part of one of my fact-finding walks with the National Museum Volunteers. One of the priests had agreed to show us around inside the historic old building. Beneath a stained glass window sat a glass coffin containing a statue of a bloody and bandaged Jesus, a venerated artifact dating back over two centuries which is used by the church as a part of its Holy Week observations.

the priest showed us the church's artifacts

Another very important artifact at the church is the statue of Mary and the baby Jesus, which also dates back to the early days of Roman Catholicism in Thailand.

Madonna and Christ

the church has a beautiful altar

Today, many of the parishioners at Holy Rosary are Thai-Chinese, and when we visited, the church was getting ready for Chinese New Year, with good-luck decorations and red door hangings adorning the beautiful old building.


Tuesday, January 25, 2022

Holy Redeemer: The Church That Looks Like a Temple

A couple of years ago, I wrote a blog post about Wat Niwet Thammaprawat, the royal chapel at Bang Pa-In Palace just south of Ayutthaya. Built during the reign of the Western-minded King Rama V, this beautiful royal temple looks almost exactly like a European-style gothic church - complete with stained windows!

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2019/09/wat-niwet-thammaprawat-one-of-kind.html

This week, I visited the inverse: Holy Redeemer Church. This Roman Catholic church, located in downtown Bangkok, is built in the style of a Thai Buddhist temple! It's a beautiful blend of cultures and artistic styles.


Established in 1949 by the Bishop of Thailand, Holy Redeemer is unlike any other Roman Catholic church in the kingdom. While the others are in a distinct European style, Holy Redeemer is inarguably Thai, with a temple-like exterior and an unusually-joyful Jesus statue in a posture of praise rather than a typical somber Crucifix situated at the main altar.


I visited the church on one of the walks with the National Museum Volunteers. I'd always wanted to stop by to pay a visit to this unique house of worship.


The congregation of Holy Redeemer existed before the church building itself had been built. The original Redemptorist Church met in the garage of a small house purchased by the diocese downtown, and was given the affectionate nickname "Our Lady of the Garage".


Bangkok's vibrant Sino-Franco-Portuguese Catholic community grew and expanded, and soon, it was necessary to built a suitable church building. The idea of incorporating Thai architecture was suggested by Msgr. Fulton Sheen, an enthusiastic American prelate who was instrumental in establishing the church.


Today, it's definitely one of - if not the most - interesting and beautiful churches in all of Thailand!

Friday, January 21, 2022

Third Dose!

We are doing our part to stop this dumb pandemic!

I got two doses of Phizer when I was in the US this summer. Now that I'm back in Thailand, I've had to start thinking about when and how I could get my third COVID booster. It's still not super easy to get here in Thailand, and we were having some trouble registering for the government's vaccine program.

In short, neither of us were in Thailand's database, as we had received our first two doses in the US, and it had been hard to find a place where we could apply for the shot.

However, this week we saw a post online by World Medical Center Hospital (WMC). This international hospital was offering the vaccination for sale via private channels. We were able to make an appointment and register for the earliest time slot.


We arrived around 9am, and were quickly and professionally processed for our Moderna booster. It only took a few minutes while we registered on the national system and received our vaccines. The next step, I suppose, is to apply four our Thai vaccine passports.

We hung around the hospital for around 20 minutes, just to make sure we didn't have any side effects. We had a fantastic coffee from a super cool coffee vending machine. Eventually, we decided we were ok to leave, and we headed home - secure in the knowledge that we are now as fully-vaccinated as possible against the Coronavirus!


Update: Gosh.. Pinky and I both felt totally fine after our two Phizer shots last summer (except for a little soreness and tiredness in the arm), but this Moderna vaccine really knocked me off my feet. I feel totally wrecked today (the day after the shot) with a high temperature, general fatigue, headache, and body aches. Still, I'm glad to be fully vaccinated. Get vaxed, folks! That's the only way we are going to bring this pandemic to an end! I'm glad to have done my part to help prevent the spread of this awful virus.

Thursday, January 13, 2022

Fancy Chips: Truffle and Salmon Lay's

Welcome back to the weird and wonderful world of Thai convenience store snacks!

The other day, I came across two new flavors of Lay's potato chips: truffle and smoked salmon with cream cheese!


The truffle chips hit the mark exactly! It's amazing how strong the delicious truffle taste is! It comes through in an immediate punch of luxurious, earth, truffley flavor! The smoked salmon chips were far milder. In fact, besides a very light flavor of salmon, I would have had a hard time identifying them. Both were good, but the truffle chips are the best new flavor I've had this year by far! I hope they stick around, but snacks tend to come and go in Thailand.

Saturday, January 1, 2022

2021 Year-in-Review


The worldwide COVID-19 Pandemic continues. It's been another weird year with a lot of ups and downs, and I'm not sure whether I can say if 2020 or 2021 was better. Let's just hope that by next year, we'll be able to say for sure that 2022 was a great one.


We started the year more or less staying home to avoid the ongoing pandemic. However, we were able to get out and about a few times! During this "new normal", we took the opportunity to explore our city by e-scooter on a few different occasions.




My wife and I took a wonderful trip to Songkhla Province in the far south of Thailand. There, we ate some amazing southern Thai Halal food, explored Hat Yai, rode the kingdom's only cable car, and visited the fairy-tale Songkhla Central Mosque, which looks as if it came right out of Arabian Nights.


Some family stuff brought me home this summer. I had the chance to see my family for the first time since the pandemic started in 2019. Traveling was really weird this year, and I documented it in a three-part mini-series:

Part I https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2021/07/vaxcation-getting-ready-to-go-part-1-of.html


While I was home, I tried to make the best of the summer! My wife and I had the chance to tour a real Texas ranch.



We also set off on some adventures across Texas! We visited Glen Rose for a camping trip at Dinosaur Valley State Park, one of my very favorite state parks. We had a great time camping and hiking and exploring the park,



A few weeks later, we went off on a small road trip across the state. On our first night, we camped at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, and trekked up the legendary Enchanted Rock itself.



A few days later in San Marcos, we went tubing down the river by day and glow kayaking up the river after dark.




My wife and I finally had a wedding ceremony at a small Buddhist temple in my hometown. COVID forced us to delay, and ultimately to have a very small ceremony, but it was a wonderful and special day.



I received a surprise honor - one of the greatest in my life! This year, I was commissioned as a Kentucky Colonel by the governor of Kentucky, joining the illustrious ranks of the United States' highest civilian honor bestowed by a state governor.



After the wedding, we took a little road trip north to visit Oklahoma. Even though I grew up not far from the border, I hadn't spent much time there. We visited Turner Falls on the way up, and were delighted by the beautiful nature of the Arbuckle Mountains.



We were also given a wonderful, free tour of the Oklahoma State Capitol by a fantastic, funny, and informed guide who showed us all of the secrets of this fascinating government building. I have always liked the Texas Capitol, but I have to admit that the Oklahoma Capitol is far more beautiful.



On the way home, we passed through the Chickasaw Nation, paid a visit to the Chickasaw Cultural Center, and were lucky enough to witness a traditional Stomp Dance.



Before leaving the US and heading back to Thailand, my family took a short vacation out to Rough Creek Lodge, a hunting lodge in Glen Rose, Texas. We spent the week relaxing by the pool, going on a crazy hike, and enjoying the amazing food at the lodge's restaurant.




Back in Thailand, we quarantined for two weeks (it was actually pretty nice!) before re-entering the country.

We mostly stayed home as the pandemic was entering a new wave. We did get the chance to go out to celebrate Loy Kratong, the Thai River Festival! This year, we made our very own homemade krathong, which was a ton of fun.



Loy Kratong night was very special. We got to visit some of the city's most famous Buddhist temples by moonlight, when there were no tourists around. We also got to float our homemade kratong on the Chaophraya River in a really special ceremony.



After Thanksgiving (which we celebrated at home), we took a wonderful day trip with a friend of ours up to Saraburi Province, a bit north of Bangkok.



Then, it was time for Christmas and New Years, both of which were rather subdued this year.

It was a weird year. Here in Thailand, we've been under very strict lockdowns, curfews, and regulations for much of the year. My brief visit to the US was a very weird time for me, as I felt very strange seeing how relaxed everything was there. It was also a chance for me to get out and have some adventures before returning to Thailand (and before the Delta and Omicron variants of the COVID virus arrived). It was so great to be back home for a while, because now with the new virus outbreaks, it's more difficult to travel again. I was hoping to go back home again next spring... we'll see.

It looks like 2022 is going to be yet another unpredictable one. I am hoping that this is the year the pandemic finally disappears, although that remains to be seen. I hope that I can get the chance to travel back home to see my family whom I dearly miss. I also hope that I'll have the chance to travel more in and around Thailand. 

To my dear friends and family who follow my blog, I wish you a very happy new year! I hope that your 2022 is a wonderful one, and that all of your resolutions and wishes for the year come true.

My 2021 Goals:

In last year's Year-in-Review post, I set out a few travel and adventure resolutions for 2021. Unfortunately, the continuing pandemic has made a lot of these adventures impossible, but I was still able to achieve several of my goals.

❌

 Visit 1 new country that I've never been to before

❌

 Trek Mount Fuji (Japan)

❌

 Trek Mount Kinabalu (Malaysia)

✔️

 Visit my family in the USA and travel to a national park (well, I visited several Texas state parks)

❌

 Go camping on Doi Inthanon, Thailand's tallest mountain

✔️

 Jog/walk 2021 kilometers

✔️

 Complete more virtual adventures

My 2022 Goals:


My 2022 goals are a bit less lofty and specific. I still don't know if I'll have much of a chance for international travel, so the treks up Mounts Kinabalu (Malaysia) and Fuji (Japan) are on hold for a while. Instead, I'll try to focus on more broad or attainable goals.
  • Write and publish a new book (I've got a project in the works... more to come on that later!)
  • Publish a successful second season of the Attempt Adventure Podcast
  • Finish my Master's degree
  • Visit 1 new country that I've never been to before (which I didn't get to do last year)
  • Go camping at Doi Inthanon National Park (again, from last year)