Along the Khlong

This week, we finally had our fifth and final National Museum Neighborhood Walk! It got delayed due to the pandemic, but three months later, the show must go on!

We met at Coffee Club, a local branch of the famous Aussie coffee chain. It was so nice to meet up with the other international members of the National Museum program again! I've missed seeing my friends since we last met up in February.

This tour was themed "Along the Khlong", and was set to take us through Phra Khanong, on the outskirts of Bangkok, along one of the city's most infamous and storied kholongs, or canals.

We began our walk at Wat Pak Bo, a Buddhist temple famous for its beautiful murals.

The temple was established by the Laotian diaspora who arrived in this area nearly two centuries ago. Although it looks typically Thai, this temple is actually in the Lao style!

The interior of the temple is covered in beautiful golden designs, and colorful Buddhas - each one representing a day of the week - line the gilt walls.

Outside, the walls of the temple are painted in fresco murals depicting some of the most important festivals in Thailand (and Laos). The most spectacular - to me anyway - was a painting depicting the Loi Krathong festivities.

We encountered a shrine to a man named Grandfather Som. This famous old man is recognized as the guardian spirit who protects and defends buried treasure.

Pu Som Fao Sap (ปู่โสมเฝ้าทรัพย์) is a male ghost who guards treasures. He appears like a venerable old man. There are a few legends about the origin of Pu Som. One recounts the story of a city under siege. Many wealthy people wanted to hide their valuables. Pu Som was working for a great nobleman who tasked him with burying his treasures in a cave in the forest. Pu Som then killed all those with him and waited for the return of his master. However, the city fell and the latter never came to reclaim his possessions. Pu Som died protecting the treasures, something he still does to this day.

Further on, we came to a shrine dedicate to "Ai Khai".

Ai Khai refers to the spirit of a boy aged about 9 or 10. Although there are many stories about Ai Khai, most seem to agree that he was a disciple of Luang Pu Thuad, a legendary and revered monk from the South of Thailand who lived over 300 years ago.

The boy Ai Khai was traveling to Si Ayutthaya with his mentor, when they decided to stay overnight in the area of present-day Wat Chedi in Nakhon Si Thammarat. Luang Pu Thuad noticed that there were

many great treasures around, but that the temple was empty and no monks were staying there. 

Sensing that this temple one day would become an important place, the monk instructed the boy to stay there, look after the treasures and serve the locals. Ai Khai vowed to do so.

The boy quickly gained appreciation from the villagers for his ability to solve problems, despite the fact that he apparently also was mischievous young lad. 

It is unclear what happened to the boy next. Stories vary from him dying in an accident at a young

age to him drowning himself in a pond nearby because he didn’t want to violate his oath to serve

the temple. Nevertheless, he never really left Wat Chedi as his spirit remained to guard the temple

and help the people.

There is also no record of what happened to the temple and the treasures afterwards, until the by

then derelict building was rediscovered in 1957. It is said that the workers, who were involved in

the construction of the new Ubosot (ordination hall), couldn’t sleep as they felt like a little child was pulling their arms or legs and was dropping things on the floor. A similar story was recorded in the 1980s when soldiers stayed in the temple area. It is said the spirit of the boy will help people recover lost items and fulfil wishes for wealth, success in business, and good luck. People who come to pray to him will return after their wish is granted to set off firecrackers and offer gifts in the form of toys, sweets, statues of roosters, military uniforms and toy weapons.

After the story of a woman who won at a lottery in 2020 hit the news, Ai Khai’s popularity rose

spectacularly and these days you can find statues all over Thailand. 

Nakhon Sri Thammarat, in fact, became the only province of Thailand whose tourism (domestic) increased during the COVID-19 pandemic! Because of international restrictions, Thais decided to travel domestically, and many opted to pay a visit to Ai Khai in the south.

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2021/11/egg-boy-and-lucky-lotto.html

We had been walking for most of the way, and at this point, our leaders informed us that it was time to board the awaiting longtail boat to continue our journey!

We walked to the canal, where two boats were waiting to carry us onward to our next destination. It was a clear, beautiful afternoon. The sun was shining, and there was an incredible blue sky over Bangkok (something which we had not seen in several months).

It is always a joy to take a longtail boat!

I do not get out on the canals all that often.

Bangkok was once known as the "Venice of the Orient" due to its amazing canal network. Today, although most people drive or take the city's fantastic public transportation network, the canal system is still a vital part of the Bangkokian experience.

As we set off down the old canal, it was interesting to see the many houses, temples, and historical sites which were still in operation along the quiet, muddy waters.

As we slowly made our way down the river, I was fascinated to see the homes along the water. Each one had a mailbox attached to a pier which jutted out into the canal.

It is fascinating; there's a whole 'nother world out there in Bangkok! There are folks (regular, middle class folks) who live along the canal, and who commute by boat rather than taxi.

I find that fascinating!

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2020/06/the-venice-of-orient-kayaking-khlong.html

We passed alongside some beautiful old Buddhist temples. Along the way, I spied several elderly women who were sitting in their plastic rowboats, waiting for customers to hire them for passage across the khlong. It is still a viable way of live in these remote riverside areas of Bangkok.

We passed some really fascinating communities which had built their homes alongside the canal. The people who live along the khlong operate schools, clinics, churches, and more on the riverside. It is really amazing! In fact, it reminded me a lot of the community which had grown up on the lake just outside of Siem Reap, Cambodia.

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2015/11/back-to-cambodia.html

It wasn't long until we arrived at an extremely infamous temple along the riverside.

I had actually been here before! This was the temple where Thailand's most famous ghost was exorcised, spawning dozens of films, cartoons, comics, and miniseries. Mae Nak is the kingdom's most legendary ghost, and a walking tour along the Phra Khanong Canal wouldn't be complete without paying here a very respectful visit.

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2014/10/mae-nak-phra-khanong.html

When we finally boarded the pre-arranged songtaews, we were tired, hungry, and ready for lunch.

Lunch was at a fantastic hotel and restaurant which looked like something out of Charles Darwin's drawing room. 

This wild cafe / hotel / restaurant was decked out in stuffed animals (giraffes, ostriches, and more), classic books and novels, and old-fashioned bottles, typewriters, and exhibits.

There was also a dog who, despite his bad habit of begging at the table, made the afternoon more fun. Everyone loves dogs, don't they??

Vexillology: Cambodia

The story of Cambodia's complicated 20th century can be told through its flags. I am back in Thailand now, and wanted to make one more post about some of the fascinating things I learned while I was in Cambodia.

Khmer Empire and the "Middle Period"; 802-1863

The yellow pendant with green fringe was reportedly flown by the Medieval Khmer Empire and in the following "Middle Period"(also known as the "Dark Age" or the "Isolation"). Following the mysterious collapse of the great Khmer Empire, the old Cambodian Kingdom entered a period of rapid decline. At its peak, the Khmer Empire was larger than the contemporary Byzantine Empire; stretching from eastern Vietnam to western Thailand. After the collapse, the kingdom retreated in on itself. Neighboring Vietnam and Siam demanded tribute. To save the kingdom from being absorbed by its neighbors, King Ang Duong finally accepted the offer of Emperor Napoleon III of France to make Cambodia a colonial protectorate.

Protectorat français du Cambodge: 1863–1940

The French Protectorate of Cambodia brought administration reforms to the kingdom. While nominally independent, the Cambodian monarchy was in practice subservient to the French colonial overlords. Cambodia was not resource-rich like neighboring Vietnam. Instead, the Cambodian Protectorate was more important as a gateway to the Mekhong River, an important trade route for expanding political and economic influence throughout Indochina.

The new flag of the protectorate featured a sala, or royal pavilion such as the one that sits along the banks of the Mekong River just outside of the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh. 

Japanese Occupation of Cambodia; (1940-1945)

Everything changed when the Japanese Empire swept across Southeast Asia in the early-to-mid 1940s. Like its neighbors, Cambodia was quickly overwhelmed by Japanese forces and the colonial government quickly fell and surrendered. The new, short-lived flag of Cambodia consisted of a "Red flag with white-outlined square followed by 4 small full white squares in each angle and another in the center". The Japanese occupation of Cambodia only lasted for a few years before Allied forces retook the country.

Colonial Cambodia (Royaume du Cambodge); 1945–1948

After the French colonial government retook the country in 1945, they introduced a brand-new flag to the country. This flag was the first to feature the ruins of Angkor Wat; a feature which would last as a national symbol for the rest of Cambodia's history. The French government assigned symbolism to each color of the flag. The flag took on the colors of the French flag (red, white, blue), but now featured Angkor Wat - a symbol which would stand resilient throughout the tumultuous 20th century.

White: Integrity, Justice and Heritage

Blue: Liberty, Cooperation and Brotherhood

Red: Bravery

The Kingdom of Cambodia; 1948–1970

Upon gaining independence in 1948, the new Kingdom of Cambodia introduced a flag which was a simplified version of the old colonial flag. It still featured the red, white, and blue of the French colonial government with the white façade of the famed Angkor Wat in the center.

The flag is full of symbolism, and the colors of the previous flag have now taken on new meaning.

White: Religion

Blue: King

Red: Nation

Khmer Republic; 1970–1975

The Khmer Republic was a short-lived pro-US anti-Communist republican government which gained power after the abolishment of the monarchy in 1970. The flag was modeled after the flag of the United States albeit with the colors swapped; with a canton in red, a blue field, and white stars. According to the Khmer Constitution, the colors and stars represent any of the following:

The Nation, the religion and the republic of Cambodia

The Three powers of the State: Legislative, Executive, and Judicial

The Three Jewels of Buddhism (Buddha, Dharma and Sangha)

Democratic Kampuchea (Khmer Rouge Regime); 1975–1979

The short-lived Democratic Kampuchea (better known as the Khmer Rouge Remime) only lasted four years, but Pol Pot's brutal campaign in Cambodia ended up killing nearly 1/4 of the entire population. The government outlawed money of all kinds, and executed anyone who could speak English or French, anyone who was overweight or wore glasses, and anyone who was educated. In short, it was one of the most violent and brutal regimes to ever rule over a country.

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2022/04/the-killing-fields-at-choeung-ek.html

The flag of Democratic Kampuchea features a stylized Angkor Wat in the style of eastern Communist brutalism. The flag is in the red and gold typical of Communist nations.

People's Republic of Kampuchea; 1979–1989

In 1979, a horrified Vietnam, having driven out the US Army and established a newly-reunified nation, decided to invade Cambodia and depose Pol Pot. The new regime of the Communist People's Republic of Kampuchea was much more compassionate than its predecessor. It prosecuted those who had established the brutal Khmer Rouge. In this period, Cambodia slowly began to rebuild.

The flag was flown over Cambodia for the 10-year period of Democratic Kampuchea's reign (1979-1989).

According to their own description, the flag's symbolism is:

"Red symbolizes blood and revolution. The five-towered Angkor Wat silhouette refers to the unity of soldiers, traders, workers, peasants and intellectuals of Kampuchea."

The State of Cambodia; 1990–1992

In 1990, the new State of Cambodia changed its flag. It now incorporated the previous colors of the Cambodian flag, and began distancing itself from the Pol Pot regime, as well as from the regime of the Vietnamese occupiers. It was a twist on the previous flag, while also using elements of the former royal flag. The main goal of this newly-independent government was to restore the country and re-establish the national monarchy under HM King Sihanouk, who had previously been deposed and had subsequently fled to both China and North Korea respectively for sanctuary following the 1970 coup.

It was a slow transition, but ultimately a successful one.

The UNTAC; 1992–1993

The United Nations Transitional Authority in Cambodia, or UNTAC, was the first, and thus far only, time the United Nations has directly taken over the administration of an independent state. For a period between 1992 and 1993, the United Nations Peacekeepers and administrators established a de facto government in the period following the fall of the Khmer Rouge Regime and the Vietnamese invasion of Cambodia. 46 countries participated in peacekeeping operations, which helped to organize free and fair elections, draft a new democratic constitution, and temporarily took over foreign affairs, national defense, and law and order. UNTAC took charge of Cambodia following decades of civil and proxy wars in order to promote human rights and lead to reconciliation in the war-torn country before the reestablishment of the monarchy in 1993.

Second Kingdom of Cambodia; 1993-present

In 1993, a constitutional assembly restored the Cambodian monarchy - the most recent monarchical re-establishment in history. In recognition of its newly-established period of peace and stability, and of the newly-recognized monarchy (re-established under the previously-deposed King Sihanouk), the flag of the new Kingdom of Cambodia is the same as that of the old Cambodian Kingdom (1948-1970). The flag still flies to this day.

According to Wikipedia:

"This famous temple site, which dates from the 12th century, was built by the Mahidharapura monarchs. It has five towers, but these were not always all depicted in the stylised version used on flags. The monarchy was restored in September 1993, the 1948 flag having been readopted in June of that year."

Symbolism:

White:     Integrity, Justice and Heritage; Religion

Blue:       Liberty, Cooperation and Brotherhood; King

Red: Bravery; Nation

Royal Standard

The Cambodian Royal Standard, like that of its Thai counterpart, flies over royal sites, temples, palaces, and the homes of those dedicated monarchists in Cambodia

I saw this flag flying many times during my recent stay in Cambodia. It was raised over Wat Phnom and other royal sites, and was flown from the balconies of royalists throughout the kingdom.

Buddhist Flag

And finally, the International Buddhist flag is another official flag in Cambodia. This flag, officially established in the 19th century as the ecumenical Buddhist flag, is flown as an international Buddhist symbol throughout the world (although Thailand is exemplary in that it flies its own independent Buddhist flag).

This flag, adopted in 1885 in Colombo, Ceylon (Sri Lanka), is seen as the official flag of Buddhism worldwide. It is commonly spotted in Buddhist countries such as Cambodia, Vietnam, and Myanmar - albeit with slight differences in color.

Alongside the national flag and the royal standard, the Buddhist Flag flies above the Royal Palace. Cambodia, as established in their most recent constitution, is an officially Buddhist country, and the Buddhist flag flies in a place of honor.

Neighborhood Walk, Staycation, and Bangkok Design Week

Back in February, I finally got to help lead my neighborhood walk! 

Neighborhood walks are a special program with the National Museum Volunteers in which members of the program are split into small groups and assigned a neighborhood to research and present as a walking tour to the rest of the neighborhood walks program! My team had been working really hard on our walking tour for many weeks, and it was finally time to make our presentation and to lead our group.

As planned, we began at the Holy Rosary Church, also known as "Wat Kalawar".  A caretaker took us around the church, and pointed out the incredible stained glass and artistic features of the beautiful old building. Wat Kalawar is one of the oldest Catholic churches in Bangkok. It was founded in 1769 by a Catholic priest who had fled the destruction of Ayutthaya. At the same time, Santa Cruz Church was founded by Portuguese priests who had also fled the ancient capital and had settled across the river in Thonburi. As such, both churches claim to be the oldest standing church in Thailand.

In actuality, the oldest Christian church in Thailand is at the old ruins of St. Dominic's in Ayutthaya!

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2019/09/kingdom-of-might-and-magic.html

My group and I are really proud of how our walking tour went! We are really happy that our fellow NMV members seemed to enjoy our walking tour!

As planned, we showed our museum friends around the church, the Marine Department, the original headquarters of the Siam Commercial Bank (the latter two were my responsibility to introduce)! We also took them to several Chinese shrines in Bangkok's oldest neighborhoods.

It was shortly after Chinese New Year, so the old neighborhood of Talad Noi was still decorated. This area was originally settled by Portuguese and French expats who had fled Ayutthaya, as well as the old Chinese mercantile families who had established their small family communities along the banks of the Chao Phraya River.

The walk went off without a hitch, and I'm so proud of the results of our hard work! When my friends or family visit me in Bangkok, I'm going to be really excited to lead them on the itinerary I helped to develop!

That weekend, exhausted and happy after our successful walk, I needed a break! My wife and I decided to take a short "staycation" in my neighborhood! We booked a night at a hotel along the river, and enjoyed a day exploring Talad Noi.

After checking into the hotel, we had a cup of coffee (I ordered my new favorite - a "sunrise", or espresso with orange juice), and set out to explore the streets in Talad Noi.

We first came to the "Toast Lady", a local street vendor who is famous throughout Thailand for her amazing Thai toast! 

Of course, we had to try it!

Pinky and I ordered a few pieces of toast, and the Toast Lady grilled them on her cart over a brazier of hot coals. Then, she prepared them in the old Thai streetfood style! One piece was drizzled with a neon green pandan custard, and the other was topped with a spread of Thai chili paste. Aroi!!!

Our further explorations took us to a shop selling chicken curry pies! These pies have been sold here for decades, and the shop is apparently a favorite haunt for Thai celebrities (if the photos lining the walls are anything to go by!).

As it happened, it turned out to be Bangkok Design Week, a semi-annual celebration of art, artistry, and post-modern expression. Most of it is almost too funky and modern for me, but I still really enjoyed it! My wife and I like Thai modern art, and the weirder, the better - if only purely for the sake of fun and interest.

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2019/09/getting-artsy-in-bkk.html

That evening, Pinky and I visited River City, a community and lifestyle mall dedicated to art! They were playing host to several of the Bangkok Design Week teams. One of the most significate was "Manao" (Mango), a very famous Thai cartoon of a cute girl who shows up on LINE stickers, clothing, and more.

That evening, we relaxed at the River View Residence, a famous old hotel overlooking the river. We had a beer and watched the bright orange sun sink below the horizon.

It was a beautiful evening, and it was wonderful to take some time to relax after a busy day.

The next morning, I really wanted to visit the small Chinese shrine just outside of the hotel.

It hadn't ended up being a part of my walking tour, but it was a fascinating and historic site in the neighborhood.

Presently, Pinky and I found ourselves craving a coffee. It was still early in the morning, but we set off wandering through Talad Noi to find a cafe. It was a cool, drizzly morning, and even though we were on the hunt for a cafe, we did enjoy getting a bit lost in the fascination old neighborhood,

Eventually, the rain got a bit too heavy to enjoy, and we ducked into the Photohostel and Photocafe, a combined hipster cafe/hostel established by a German photojournalist expat. The cafe rents medium and large-format cameras and film, and the owner has scheduled a number of photo walks and photography tours throughout Bangkok! There are also some small photography galleries to be found within the Photohostel!

As we waited for the rain to slack, we decided to share an afternoon tea set!

https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2020/01/afternoon-tea.html 

Like the one we had had at the Centara Hotel, the afternoon tea set came with scones, cakes, and other snacks to enjoy with our pot of fresh, hot, Jasmine tea.

After spending so many weeks exploring this neighborhood with my museum group, I was really happy to finally take some time to rest and relax in this amazing area of Bangkok.

Even though it was a staycation, it was nice to take a day off. It's been a super busy time lately, and I really appreciate any chance to take some time off to explore with my wife... even if it is just a local getaway.