Hanaeda

Hanaeda Airport

Tokyo has two airports. The bigger and newer, Narita, is located quite a ways out of town. The smaller and older, Hanaeda, is more or less in the city. I've always flown in and out of NRT, but for some reason, this trip had me visiting HAN!

It's a cool airport! It doesn't feel small at all, and there's a ton of stuff to do while waiting for a flight.

For example, on one floor, there was a tiny shrine with a vending machine where you could buy a prayer card that looked like an airline ticket. I guess these cards must be for safe travels.

a wall of prayers at the airport

When I'm at Narita, I like sitting on the viewing deck with a snack, so when I arrived very early at Hanaeda Airport, I decided to do the same! It was a chilly day, and very windy, but the views were nice and the cool air felt great.

Hanaeda Viewing Deck

Hanaeda has a bunch of cool shops that look like a small Japanese town. There are restaurants, snack shops, and all sorts of souvenir shops for last-minute shopping.

shops in Hanaeda Airport

When I visited, there was a special flower display at the airport. Several areas in the airport had these big, beautiful "photo spots" set up, which highlighted the region's local summertime flowers.

flower display

It's not a bad airport to spend some time in! But the best part of being at Hanaeda, though, was that it meant that I was on my way home to visit my family!

an airport photo spot

Nezu and Noodles: My Last Night in Tokyo

the gardens at Nezu-jinja Shrine

It was my final night in Japan before flying home to visit my family in the USA for the summer. Looking at my map of Tokyo, I saw that there was an ancient and well-regarded Shinto shrine within a short walk from my hotel! I decided to pay it a visit, despite the cold misty rain of the evening.

prayers and wishes left by the shrine's visitors

Nezu-jinja, often called "Tokyo's most beautiful shrine" was built in 1705. Although it's not super old compared to other places in Japan, it's one of the oldest shrines that survived the bombing of Tokyo during the Second World War.

Japanese torii gates

The shrine has a set of vermilion torii gates; a diminutive version of the great mountain shrine at Fushimi Inari in the ancient capital, Kyoto.

the path beneath the red gates

Nezu-jinja is a quiet spot in Tokyo. In fact, as it's less crowded than most places in the city, it's easy to forget that you are even still in the capital! Visiting the shrine is like instantly transporting to Kyoto. There were few people there on the evening when I visited the shrine.

the fox is the symbol of Inari

It was about an hour before sunset, and I was almost all alone. I took a walk along the path, flanked by torii gates and the occasional fox statue. The fox is the symbol of Inari, Japanese god of rice, sake, and money.

beautiful shrine

The main shrine hall was built in a style reminiscent of the great shrine in Nikko, which also inspired the Toshogu Shrine in the nearby Ueno Park. You can see how the architecture is similar!

the main shrine hall

After leaving the shrine, I was hungry! It was my last night, and I wanted to do something special. There was a small local noodle restaurant just across the street from my capsule hotel. This looked like a good place for dinner! It was cold and rainy, and a hot bowl of noodles sounded just perfect.

dinner at a small diner, just across from my hotel

Something that I really love about Japan, especially about Tokyo, is how convenient and intuitive everything is, even if you don't speak Japanese. You don't need to know the language to be able to figure out the metro system, how to buy a train ticket, or how to order your dinner. Lots of diner-type restaurants in Japan have a special system for ordering... you order from a machine! The menu is in Japanese or English, and has pictures of what you might want. Just select what looks good, insert your money, and bring the ticket to the guy behind the counter.

you order your meal from this machine

Then, just sit down at the table in the tiny, cramped diner. Your meal will be out shortly! This type of restaurant is popular with salarymen, students, and people who are in a hurry. It's also great when it's raining outside, since it's always warm and dry in the noodle shop.

inside the little diner

I ordered a huge bowl of udon noodles with pork. Just what I needed after a long day of walking around Tokyo in the rain!

my delicious dinner - a big bowl of pork noodle soup (udon)

Yebisu in Ebisu

A Draught of Beer with the God of Luck: the Yebisu Beer Museum, Tokyo

In 1890, the Japan Brewing Company, the oldest brewery in Japan, was established in Tokyo. The company hired a German brew master, and began began the country's now iconic Beer industry. They named their first beer "Yebisu", after the Japanese god of fortune.

On the evening of my last full day in Japan, I headed to Ebisu neighborhood to take a tour of the Yebisu Beer Museum, the headquarters and home of Japan's first beer.

Ebisu, the God of Luck

The Ebisu neighborhood is actually named for the brewery. Yebisu is the name of the beer and the archaic spelling of the god of fortune, who is nowadays called Ebisu. It's confusing, but both words are actually just pronounced "Ebisu". Either spelling is alright!

the Yebisu Museum in Tokyo 

At first, it took a while for beer to take off in Japan. In the late 19th century, one bottle of Yebisu cost as much as ten bowls of noodles, and was therefore really only enjoyed by the elite. Another hurdle that the company had to pass was the hesitance of the Japanese people to adopt a malt drink in lieu of their traditional rice-based beverages.

Today, Japan has dozens of different types of beers. The drink has become super popular, and there are even beer vending machines! Japan has more types and flavors of beer than Thailand does, with interesting flavors, seasonal varieties, and even an interesting craft beer industry.

display of old bottles in the beer museum

The museum is located inside of an old brick building surrounded by the trendy shops, bars, parks, and cafes of what is now the Ebisu neighborhood.

the grand entrance to the Yebisu Museum

I wanted to take a tour of the museum and brewery, but unfortunately tours were only offered in Japanese. Instead, I walked through the museum myself. The exhibits were in English and Japanese, and I got to see old bottles, vintage advertisements, and all sorts of Yebisu brand promotional goods. After that, I paid a visit to the tasting room.

at the museum's tasting room 

To visit the tasting room, first you have to exchange some yen for a Yebisu Coin, a golden coin about the size of a half dollar minted with the beer's logo, a depiction of the god of fortune holding a large fish.

coaster and Yebisu coin 

Yebisu is supposed to be one of Japan's more premium beers, but there are small-batch brews and flavors that you can only get at the tasting room. I ordered the tasting set, a flight of three small glasses, each one shaped to fit the character of the beer that it held.

the tasting set 

From left to right: Yebisu Kohaku (red beer), Yebisu Premium (their standard beer), and Yebisu Black (a dark beer). The set also came with a small tray of pickles.

The museum had a great gift shop, but I didn't end up getting anything. I had an extra Yebisu Coin left over, so I kept that as the souvenir of my visit instead!

the tasting room at the Yebisu Beer Museum

If you enjoyed this post, you might also like reading about the Beer Lao Factory in Vientiane, Laos! 

>> https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2016/08/a-weekend-in-vientiane-300th-post.html

Two Gardens in Tokyo

浜離宮恩賜庭園 - the Hamarikyu Gardens - the ancient Shōgun's palace

The Hamarikyu Gardens in Tokyo is a beautiful park on the site of what was once the palace of the Japanese Shogun during the Edo Period.

bridge to the old palace 

I paid a small fee for a ticket to walk around the grounds. It was still early in the morning, and since it was a weekday, the park was empty and quiet. It had rained the night before, and the air was cold.

statue in the garden 

The Shogun's palace is long gone, but the garden is meticulously maintained. There are a few statues and a handful of structures, including a tea house and a small museum.

the Shogun's gardens 

皇居 - The Imperial Palace East Gardens - the former Edo Castle

The monarch of Japan is the world's sole remaining emperor. As a matter of fact, the old emperor, Akihito, abdicated recently, passing the throne on to his son. He was the first emperor to do so in over two centuries!

The ancestral home of the Japanese Imperial Family is located right in the heart of Tokyo, just a short walk from Tokyo Station. The old station is large, but as the busiest train station in the country, it's not nearly large enough. The vast majority of Tokyo Station is actually underground! The Metro, Japan Rail, and Shinkansen (bullet trains) all run through this huge labyrinthine train station.

Tokyo Station 

You need a reservation to take the tour of the Imperial Palace, which I wasn't able to get in time. That list fills up fast! However, the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace are free and open to visit.

The Imperial Palace 

I would have liked to tour the palace itself. Maybe next time!

entrance to the East Gardens 

I got to see a small exhibition hall of Japanese paintings and some of the beautiful imperial flower gardens.

the walls of the Imperial Palace 

Tsukiji

After returning to Tokyo from Kamakura, I was so exhausted that I fell asleep early. The next day, I also had an early start, and took the train out to Tsukiji, a neighborhood of Tokyo. I intended to visit the famous Tsukiji Fish Market, one of the world's most vibrant fresh markets, and home to the most expensive fish ever auctioned.

When I walked up from the metro station, though, I was greeted by a massive and imposing structure. 

Tsukiji Hongan-ji

The Tsukiji Hongan-ji Temple is one of Tokyo's biggest. Built almost like a cathedral, the huge structure of stone and stained glass looks almost downright Masonic, and unlike any Japanese temple (or Buddhist temple in general) that I had ever seen before.

statue of a Buddhist priest

I was surprised that I had never seen or even heard about such an unusual and interesting Buddhist temple! I didn't know what the big building even was, but I recognized some Buddhist motifs, such as stupas and the prayer wheel. There were a few other tourists milling around the grounds, and several Japanese worshipers visiting that morning as well.

Overcome with curiosity, I allowed myself to be momentarily distracted from the fish market, and climbed the steps to the doors of the temple.

big front doors to the temple

The inside was set up more or less like a traditional Mahayana Buddhist temple, but with rows of chairs arranged like they would be in a church. Signs even noted the times for daily services, something not common at a regular Buddhist temple.

I was curious, but it wasn't time for a service. Visitors were sitting quietly in the "sanctuary", so I just took a look around and headed out to my real destination: Tsukiji Market.

the interior to the temple is set up like a church with seats and a large altar

First, I came to a little shrine just out back of the market. The Namiyoke Inari Shrine has come to be the guardian shrine for the fish market and its vendors.

small shrine outside the market

Tsukiji is an artificial area made on reclaimed land. When it was first established, it was hit by terrible storms and rough seas. The locals built the shrine to pray to settle the water. According to legend, it worked!

inside the shrine

The shrine is also home to a famous festival, called the Tsukiji Lion Festival, which occurs on June 10 every year (I just missed it!). On this time, two great lion masks are paraded through the town to ward off evil spirits. During the rest of the year, the lion masks are on display at the shrine.

lion mask

The shrine serves the famous Tsukiji Fish Market. In Shinto, the traditional religion of Japan, kami, or spirits, reside in every natural thing. At the shrine, there are smaller shrines and memorials that are dedicated to giving thanks to the products from the fish market.

For example, this is the Tamagozuka. "Tamago" means "egg", and the egg-shaped memorial was built to honor the eggs (fish and otherwise) that we need to sustain ourselves.

Tamagozuka

Another monument, the Katsugyozuka, is dedicated to the live fish that are caught and brought to the market.

Katsugyozuka

There are other little shrines to sushi and other types of seafood. I think it's pretty special and a beautiful tradition to remember the things that have given their lives for humans to survive.

the shrine's interior

I explored the market for a while, then stopped in for my most expensive meal in Japan - a delicious full plate of the world's freshest sushi for breakfast! I usually travel on a super budget, but I was willing to spend $35 for one of the greatest meals that I've had on my travels! Each piece of sashimi was so fresh, and everything was amazing. Totally worth the price!

time for breakfast!

Kamakura 鎌倉市: The Long Walk to the Great Buddha (3/3)

The main thing to see in Kamakura is the Great Buddha, a symbol of the city. It was the last thing that I wanted to see on my day trip before heading back to Tokyo. After spending much of the morning walking through the town, I headed off of the road onto a trail through the city park and into the mountains. The trail seemed clearly marked, and although I didn't have a map, the tourist attraction markers were pointing the way. It was only 2 km... that's only just about a mile. What could go wrong?

I guess this is the start of the trail...

I started off on the trail that headed up into the hills surrounding Kamakura. The path would take me across the city to the other side of town, where I could see the Great Buddha and then catch the train back to Tokyo Station. The hike started off fairly easy and flat, beneath shady trees and among groves of wild bamboo, but it also started with a rather ominous sign:

that's not a sign I like to see! 

The trail grew rapidly steeper, narrower, and rougher, and the slick mud made it difficult to walk. The journey, which I had expected to take no more than about half an hour, stretched to more than two. At points, I was having to scramble up steep slopes, and I realized that the trail was taking me deep into the mountains above Kamakura. Every step felt like I was going to slip and fall in the thick mud, and at time, I was afraid that I had become lost on the trails. However, the path was still clearly marked, and signs continued to point my way towards the Great Buddha.

Two hours later, I came upon a sign for the Itsuki Cafe Terrace Garden. My first sign of civilization! Tired, cold, wet, and muddy, I followed the path 50 meters to a beautiful cafe and restaurant set in the wilderness high above the town.

a sign of civilization 

Finally, a beautiful French-style cafe appeared between the trees, looking incongruous in the wilderness. A friendly hostess led me, wet, muddy, and dirty as I was, to a nice seat overlooking the side of the mountain. Below, an employee rode a small funicular from the town far below to the top of the mountain, where the cafe was located. The cafe terrace was very remote, and I was happier to see it up there in the mountains that I had ever been to see any cafe.

the cable car up to the terrace 

I ordered a croissant, a bowl of hot creamy vegetable soup, and a glass of Asahi beer. I took some time at the cafe to get my bearings and rest my tired legs.

The cafe, it turns out, was once the weekend home of a wealthy businessman. Hikers attempting to cross Kamakura over the mountain trail would get lost from the nearby path and wander onto his property. He would make them a cup of tea or coffee, and show them how to get back to the trail. Eventually, he decided to turn his home into the cafe terrace - a small but lovely restaurant and rest area for hikers on the trail.

my lunch 

When I had finished my lunch, I asked the hostess how to get to the Great Buddha. She pointed my way, and told me that it would just be another fifteen minutes. My spirits restored, I set out once more on the steep, slippery mountain trail.

the trail grew steeper 

I was miserable... but I couldn't deny that the views over the city and to the sea were impressive.

a view of the sea from the mountains 

I was freezing, but I pressed on. The very last bit of the trail was the steepest part, and the slippery mud made it almost impossible to move at anything other than a crawl. Finally, I was at the street, and my destination, the  Kōtoku-in Monastery, was just ahead.

This is what I came for, and it was absolutely worth the trek.

I finally made it to the temple! 

A hand-painted sign at the gates of the monastery greeted visitors:

"Stranger, whosoever thou art and whatsoever thy creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary remember thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages. This is the temple of Buddha and the gate of the eternal, and should therefore be entered with reverence.

-By order of the Prior"

I thought that the message was really poetic and quite beautifully written, and it stuck with me. It's a message of inclusion, welcoming visitors whatever their creed or concession, but still requests respect and reverence.

the Great Buddha of Kamakura 

The Kōtoku-in Monastery is ancient. The impressive bronze Daibutsu (Great Buddha) itself was cast in 1252, though it looks almost new.

The Great Buddha was so evocative and made such an impression on visitors, that Rudyard Kipling even wrote a poem about the temple called "Buddha at Kamakura". "And there is a Japanese idol at Kamakura..."

the Great Buddha is a symbol of the region 

Long ago the statue was gilded, though nowadays only a small bit of gold remains around the Buddha's ears. The monumental statue is 13.35 meters (43.8 ft) tall. It may be smaller than the Big Buddha in Hong Kong, but the age in which it was cast, and the way that it has been preserved for nearly 800 years is what makes this Buddha so impressive.

The temple is free to visit, but I paid the extra 200 yen for a chance to go inside the massive, hollow bronze statue.

inside the Great Buddha 

The Daibutsu is considered to be one of the national treasures of Japan, and seeing the huge statue and the beautiful temple made me hike worth it, despite the mud and freezing rain. There was no way that I could visit Kamakura without seeing the Great Buddha, not only the symbol of the city, but one of the symbols of the Kamakura Period and the Kansai Region as a whole!

the Buddha is cast from bronze

In the afternoon I took the train back to Tokyo. I have no idea how far I had walked, but my legs were exhausted. I took a scorching hot bath, not even caring about the awkwardly public nature of the bath at my hotel. My day trip was great, but it wore me out. I was asleep as soon as I laid down in my capsule that night.

I never intended to hike through the mountains. I had packed only shorts and sandals. I thought it was a street, or perhaps a gentle trail that led from one part of the town to the other. In the end, despite how uncomfortable the walk was, I got a good story out of it. I guess that's a big part of what traveling is all about though, isn't it?

statues on the way back to Kamakura Station