Songkran at Siam

Good Lord! They weren't joking when they said that April is the hottest month in Thailand! It is absolutely miserable now. The other day, my friend Kelsey and I went to the Grand Palace. We got up at 5:00 AM to beat the crowds and the heat, but by 9:00 it was almost unbearable outside. I can hardly walk to the corner Family Mart for a cold drink without needing a shower afterwards. I wasn't in Thailand last year during this time, so I thought it gets pretty bad in May and June, but that is nothing like this!

So it's the hottest part of the year... that means it's time for Songkran, the Water Festival! Though it started as a Thai Buddhist holiday, it's become something much, much bigger, although the religious aspect is still present. People wash their parents' and grandparents' hands with scented water to bless them, and small Buddhist Songkran stations are set up in apartment buildings, grocery stores, malls, and even along the street. At these stations, people will scoop a small cup of water over the statue, symbolically washing it in an act of merit-making. Songkran, the traditional Thai new year, is all about cleansing and purifying.

a small shrine set up in the lobby of my apartment building

With my water gun, waterproof phone case, and flowered Songkran shirt, I set out just before noon to head to Siam Square. The Songkran shirts are basically what I would call a Hawaiian shirt. They are cheap and found all over Bangkok in the month leading up to Songkran. Songkran can get very messy, so they sell these shirts that you don't really mind if they get ruined. In a modern twist on another old tradition, people will sometimes throw white sandalwood powder all over you in a "blessing." That didn't happen at Siam though, the tamest and most Thai of the three big celebration areas. Many farangs opt to celebrate at the wilder Silom or Khao San street parties instead. 

preparing to head into battle with my friends

They turned a big street block into a pedestrian-only area with lots of stalls selling water guns, buckets, plastic bags, and lots of Thai food and snacks. There were DJ's playing traditional Songkran songs, and even some live music as it got into evening. One long street was the "war zone"

getting ready at Siam Square

Once you're in that area, you become a target for everyone. It's a huge free-for-all! Although the day was hot, it was cloudy, and after getting totally soaked, I actually felt really cold. Some people loaded their guns with ice water. Those people were the worst! The water gun I had bought the day before at Big C broke as soon as I arrived. That's what I get for buying the cheapest one! I had to buy another gun, but this time I just got a tiny little "Angry Birds" water pistol. It turned out to be a really reliable little weapon!

crowds of people at Siam Square

Let's not forget that this is a religious holiday, though. It was interesting to see people step away from the water fight to take a moment to wash the statues set up in the middle of Siam Square.

shrines at Siam Square

At one point, a long procession led by dancers in traditional costumes came through, bearing a small Buddha image on a bed of purple flowers.

shrine procession

By the end of the few hours I spent out at Siam, I was thoroughly soaked and freezing! It was so much fun! I'm really happy that I stayed in Thailand for Songkran this year. The party at Siam was very good-spirited. Everyone was friendly and having a good time. It was nice to see a lot of families out there having fun together.

all-out water war

Songkran is really all about family. Many places will be closed during the three-day holiday, and lots of people go home to visit their families. I'll be happy to see my own very soon! I've got to spend all day tomorrow packing, because I fly out of Bangkok on Thursday.