伏見稲荷 Fushimi Inari

Inari is the Japanese god of rice, sake, tea, and money, which are four things that I like! Well, three things that I really like. I don't have particularly strong feelings either way about rice.

Inari is one of the most popular Shinto deities, probably on account of being the patron of three really cool things.

In Kyoto, just a 15 minute or so ride on a local train from Kyoto Station is Mt. Inari, a huge temple complex honoring the god, planted with thousands of red tori gates stretching along a 4km trail from the ground to the summit.

the fox is the messenger of Inari

As soon as we stepped off the train at Inari station, I was hit with a freezing blast, as tiny needles of icy rain pelted my face.

The day before had been cool, but pleasant, so that morning, I had foregone jeans and decided instead to wear shorts because I wanted lots of pockets to carry things. Who needs pockets! I was freezing! We decided to make our way to the summit anyway.

After a few minutes of walking, the crowds disappeared. People flock from all over the world to visit Fushimi Inari shrine on Mt. Inari, but they are mostly there to take pictures in the vermillion hallway of shinto gates. But we are survivors. Despite the cold icy wind, we kept making our way up the mountain... but we weren't necessarily happy about it.

obligatory photo of the Tori gates

Finally, we got to the top. We were almost alone at the summit. At this point, we couldn't take the cold any longer. Pinky had her head wrapped in a silk scarf as protection from the rain, although by now it was soaked through with cold water.

My windbreaker did little to protect my frozen face, hands, and legs. Why did I wear shorts!? Well, at least I wasn't the only dummy on the mountain who hadn't checked the weather. I saw one other guy going up the mountain as we were on the descent. He and I made eye contact, and in that moment shared an expression of frozen discomfort with one another.

Mt. Inari is dotted with dozens of little tea houses, warm, dry shelters from the elements. We stopped in one for a bottle of hot tea and to dry off a little bit.

at the summit

Despite it all, I liked Mt. Inari. Last year, it was maybe my favorite place we saw in Japan. Maybe I liked it a little more last year... but it was great to see anyway. There's a very mysterious feeling throughout the mountain. After you get past the crowds on the lower levels, it's quiet and peaceful, and you really do feel surrounded by the forest, looked on by the stony fox guardians.

And of course, there's always time for ice cream! Even though it was cold, a cone of soy ice cream raided our spirits as we waited in a tea house for the rain to slack off before we continued our walk.

always time for ice cream!