Friday, January 5, 2024

Istanbul (Not Constantinople)

I landed in Istanbul on the night of the third of January. It was a cold, rainy evening, and I was glad that this time, at least I wasn't wearing sandals!

I had flown out of Dallas late on New Year's Day and was heading back home to Thailand. I didn't have much time in Turkey, but I was determined to make the most of my overnight layover.

I took a cab to the Santa Sophia Hotel in the historic Sultanahmet neighborhood, took a shower (very appreciated after the long intercontinental flight where I was, sadly, stuck in the middle seat), and headed down to the hotel lobby to meet my friend Emre.


I know Emre from work but had never met him in person. When I knew that I would have a few hours in Istanbul, I sent him a text and we planned to meet up for dinner.

We walked the ancient, cobbled streets to the nearest tram station and took it three or four stations to the northern part of the European side of the city. It was my first time riding the public transport in Istanbul!
 

Emre took me to a restaurant on the fifth floor of a multi-use tower overlooking the Bosporus Strait.


I asked my friend to order for me (when it comes to food, always trust the tastes of your local friends!), and soon our meal arrived.

First was a sort of appetizer made from olive oil, goat's cheese, chopped walnuts, and chili flakes that was eaten over fresh rolls of bread.


This was followed by a fresh salad, which we shared. It was very much like a Greek salad, which isn't surprising given the proximity and shared history between the two countries.

Soon, our main courses arrived. I had the lamb and Emre had a type of smashed Turkish meatball. Both of our meals were served with thick-cut fries, roasted peppers, and a dipping sauce made with radish, pomegranate seeds, and parsley.


After dinner, we took a walk through the Old Town. Despite the cold wind and slight drizzle, it was a really nice night! I was impressed by how many people were out walking.


It seems that Istanbul locals enjoy traveling by foot. It's something I can really get behind.


As we walked, we chatted about Turkish and American politics, travel, culture, and the future of my company.

It was so great getting real feedback from an actual user of my company's product, but for me, the real benefit of the job is this; being able to meet friends from all around the world.


We walked on, past the towering spires of the ancient Hagia Sofia. 


The ancient cathedral/mosque/museum is perhaps the most iconic sight in all of Istanbul (itself an ancient city filled with iconic sights).


As we walked, Emre filled me in on the history and cultural context of the sights that we saw. The best travel experiences that I've ever had have always been with a local friend. If it's possible, having a friend show you around is always the best way to see a new place.


Just across a beautiful fountained plaza stood the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, most commonly called in English "The Blue Mosque". I've never been, but it's on my list of places to visit.

Although more than a millennium newer than the Hagia Sofia, the Blue Mosque is a historical landmark in itself, and is regarded as one of the most impressive mosques in the world. I'll have to make time for a visit next time I'm in Istanbul!

Read more: 

Masjid Jamek




We stopped at the Obelisk of Theodosius, an Ancient Egyptian obelisk of Pharaoh Thutmose III re-erected in the Hippodrome of Constantinople (known today as At Meydanı or Sultanahmet Meydanı, in the modern city of Istanbul, Turkey) by the Roman emperor Theodosius I in the 4th century AD.

Egypt was, for nearly three centuries, an important part of the sprawling Ottoman Empire. This obelisk was one of the Empire's crown jewels, erected in the center of the ancient capital of Constantinople by an ancient Byzantine emperor.

To me, it's a symbol of the deep threads connecting East to West in Istanbul, a city sprawling across centuries and continents.


As I walked back to my hotel, shops selling brightly-colored rolls of Turkish delight kept calling my name.


Justifying it as an excuse to gather content for The World of Street Food, I stepped into the warm light of the Grande Cafe Teras to sample their confectionaries.


Lokum, famously known as "Turkish delight" around the world, is one of those things that you must try when visiting Turkey. I couldn't decide on which flavor looked best, so I ordered a plate of nine pieces in order to try them all.


Turkish delight is not one thing, but a family of confections made from a gel of starch and sugar. It is believed to have originated in the Ottoman Empire sometime in the late 18th century. They are often flavored with rosewater, bergamot orange, lemon, and other sweet, bright flavors.


Simple, traditional Turkish delight is often packaged and eaten in small cubes dusted with icing sugar (like the type Edmund eats in The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe), but premium varieties are often mixed with chopped dates, pistachios, hazelnuts, or walnuts to create more complex flavors, looks, and textures.


There were so many different typers of lokum to try. Some were very traditional, made with pistachios and hazelnut; others were modern twists on the classic sweet, and were made with nougat, pomegranate, and even Oreo cookies and cream!


I didn't really know what to order, so I asked the staff for recommendations. They helped me choose a set of nine very different lokum, each one unique and special.

The lokum were rich and sweet. The outsides all had crunchy textures from the chopped nuts they were rolled in, and the insides were creamy, nougaty, and perfectly chewy. 


A far cry from the plain mass-produced Turkish delights you might find in a supermarket abroad, these lokum were vibrant, unique, and very tasty. Each one felt very special.


I sat under an awning, out of the chilly rain, and enjoyed my Turkish delight.

By the time I walked back to my hotel, it was almost midnight. I slept soundly

I was up well before dawn the next morning (thanks, jet-lag).


Istanbul is a city that lends itself to exploring on foot, especially in the early hours of the day. I set out from my hotel in the historic Sultanahmet neighborhood with no specific destination in mind but determined to seek breakfast at the first restaurant that I found open. 


By chance, my wandering brought me to Tarihi Çemberlitaş Muhallebici, and I stepped inside.


I ordered a serving of menemen with cheese and a cup of Turkish coffee. I sipped the strong, dark coffee from the traditional tiny Turkish coffee cup and watched out the window as people hurried to and from the nearby trolley station.



Fresh eggs are scrambled up in a stew of tomatoes, peppers, and aromatics such as onion and other herbs and topped with an optional handful of creamy cheese (highly recommended if it's available on the menu!). Menemen is eaten by scooping up a portion onto a piece of bread or by dipping the bread directly into the hot skillet of delicious stew.

I ate every bite, finishing off my basket of bread and eating up the rest of the menemen with a spoon. It was too delicious to let any of this savory and filling breakfast go to waste!


Soon, it was time to leave.

During my two short visits to Istanbul, I've really fallen in love with the city. I want to visit Turkey again sometime soon and spend more time exploring this beautiful, ancient country.

This time, however, I had fewer than 24 hours, and I was soon sitting in a turquoise cab (the middle-class cab of Istanbul's three tiers of yellow, turquoise, and black) and heading to IST airport.

I had a little time to kill, so I paid €13 for a ticket to the İstanbul Airport Museum which is in the terminal past security.

The museum features an impressive collection of artifacts dating back to the Ottoman, Byzantine, and Greek eras and beyond. It's a small but incredibly culturally rich selection of some of modern Turkey's most important historical artifacts.


Visiting the museum was well worth the price. Though a small collection, it was a fantastic overview of the country's rich art history.


It was time to leave Turkey, but even my short visits to this beautiful country have left an impression on me. I hope to visit again someday (hopefully sooner rather than later).


I'm back in Thailand now and struggling (but slowly succeeding) in adjusting to jetlag. It always takes me a while.

I'm looking forward to the new adventures and experiences that this year will bring!

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