Asakusa 浅草

stained glass in Ueno Station

Asakusa is a neighborhood of Tokyo that time forgot.

arriving in Asakusa

I visited Asakusa on a cold, rainy Tokyo evening. Despite the chilly rain and wind, Senso-ji Temple, the main attraction in Asakusa, was vibrant and busy with visitors.

Senso-ji Temple

Senso-ji is the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo, and dates back to 628 (although the current temple complex was rebuilt after it was destroyed during the Second World War).

giant lantern at the temple

The temple was founded when two fishermen drew a statue of Kannon (Guanyin; the goddess of mercy) out of the nearby river. They built a temple and dedicated it to Kannon.

To reach the temple, visitors walk past a pedestrian street lined with old-style shops and stalls. It really does feel like going back in time! The first thing that you reach upon entering the temple complex is Kaminarimon, the "Thunder Gate". This giant red temple gate is one of the most iconic symbols of Tokyo.

a crowded day at the temple

Past the Thunder Gate, the temple is swarming with activity. Temple maidens sell amulets, calligraphers paint seals in temple books, and people huddle around the big earthenware braziers, wafting thick clouds of incense smoke towards themselves for a blessing.

Learn more: about Japanese temple stamp books

the incense smoke is a blessing

This ritual is used at the temple in order to purify the visitor. It is traditionally believed that being engulfed in the smoke of burning incense can heal the body, mind, and soul. Students especially like to waft the smoke towards their heads in order to help themselves become smarter.

incense smoke at Senso-ji Temple

It was dinnertime, and I was hungry from a long day of walking all across the city. Fortunately, it's impossible to go hungry in Tokyo, as there is always something delicious nearby to eat.

I found a stall just outside the temple gates selling one of my favorite Japanese snacks: takoyaki!

takoyaki!

Takoyaki a snack made of wheat flower and grilled pieces of octopus rolled up into a ball and topped with tempura, pickled ginger, green onion, and bonito fish flakes. It's a popular street food, and I bought a box of six takoyaki and ate them on the curb beneath the five-tiered pagoda of the temple.

a piece of takoyaki

Tokyo is a modern city. While Kyoto has a slower and more traditional lifestyle, Tokyo moves forward nonstop. Unlike in Kyoto or other smaller cities, it's rare to see people in Tokyo dressed in traditional kimonos.

That is, except for in Asakusa! Here, life takes a step backwards towards the past, and history and tradition take on a deeper meaning.

a kimono shop on the streets of Asakusa

Japan is a country that never stops developing and rushing towards the future... but beneath all of that, it's still a very traditional country that never forgets its past. It's nice to see a neighborhood that reflects that.

one of Tokyo's most traditional neighborhoods