Tsukiji

After returning to Tokyo from Kamakura, I was so exhausted that I fell asleep early. The next day, I also had an early start, and took the train out to Tsukiji, a neighborhood of Tokyo. I intended to visit the famous Tsukiji Fish Market, one of the world's most vibrant fresh markets, and home to the most expensive fish ever auctioned.

When I walked up from the metro station, though, I was greeted by a massive and imposing structure. 

Tsukiji Hongan-ji

The Tsukiji Hongan-ji Temple is one of Tokyo's biggest. Built almost like a cathedral, the huge structure of stone and stained glass looks almost downright Masonic, and unlike any Japanese temple (or Buddhist temple in general) that I had ever seen before.

statue of a Buddhist priest

I was surprised that I had never seen or even heard about such an unusual and interesting Buddhist temple! I didn't know what the big building even was, but I recognized some Buddhist motifs, such as stupas and the prayer wheel. There were a few other tourists milling around the grounds, and several Japanese worshipers visiting that morning as well.

Overcome with curiosity, I allowed myself to be momentarily distracted from the fish market, and climbed the steps to the doors of the temple.

big front doors to the temple

The inside was set up more or less like a traditional Mahayana Buddhist temple, but with rows of chairs arranged like they would be in a church. Signs even noted the times for daily services, something not common at a regular Buddhist temple.

I was curious, but it wasn't time for a service. Visitors were sitting quietly in the "sanctuary", so I just took a look around and headed out to my real destination: Tsukiji Market.

the interior to the temple is set up like a church with seats and a large altar

First, I came to a little shrine just out back of the market. The Namiyoke Inari Shrine has come to be the guardian shrine for the fish market and its vendors.

small shrine outside the market

Tsukiji is an artificial area made on reclaimed land. When it was first established, it was hit by terrible storms and rough seas. The locals built the shrine to pray to settle the water. According to legend, it worked!

inside the shrine

The shrine is also home to a famous festival, called the Tsukiji Lion Festival, which occurs on June 10 every year (I just missed it!). On this time, two great lion masks are paraded through the town to ward off evil spirits. During the rest of the year, the lion masks are on display at the shrine.

lion mask

The shrine serves the famous Tsukiji Fish Market. In Shinto, the traditional religion of Japan, kami, or spirits, reside in every natural thing. At the shrine, there are smaller shrines and memorials that are dedicated to giving thanks to the products from the fish market.

For example, this is the Tamagozuka. "Tamago" means "egg", and the egg-shaped memorial was built to honor the eggs (fish and otherwise) that we need to sustain ourselves.

Tamagozuka

Another monument, the Katsugyozuka, is dedicated to the live fish that are caught and brought to the market.

Katsugyozuka

There are other little shrines to sushi and other types of seafood. I think it's pretty special and a beautiful tradition to remember the things that have given their lives for humans to survive.

the shrine's interior

I explored the market for a while, then stopped in for my most expensive meal in Japan - a delicious full plate of the world's freshest sushi for breakfast! I usually travel on a super budget, but I was willing to spend $35 for one of the greatest meals that I've had on my travels! Each piece of sashimi was so fresh, and everything was amazing. Totally worth the price!

time for breakfast!