Phra Pradaeng

morning on the river

Another Saturday morning found me waiting for my Walking Adventures group at Central Pier along the banks of the Chaophraya River. It was sunny and very, very hot. No rain this week!

We crossed the river via ferry at 8:30 sharp, before hopping on Air-con Bus #6 to head to the far southwest of Bangkok, almost to Samut Prakan Province. It was a long ride, and the bus was very comfortable. By the time we disembarked the bus and hopped yet another ferry into Phra Pradaeng District, I think we were all starting to feel a little bit sleepy; lulled by the rumbling of the bus and the rocking of the boat. Noi, our guide, took us to a local market at the ferry dock where we all bought coffee.

a quiet stretch of the Chaophraya River

This tour was called "Mon City", and it took us to a quiet district almost out of Bangkok called Phra Pradaeng. The "Green Lung of Bangkok", or Bang Krachao, is located in this district. It's formed as a sort of island in an large bend in the Chaophraya River. Although it's not too far from the city, it's a piece of rural Thai life in the heart of the capital.

This area was settled by the Mon people several hundred years ago during the reign of King Taksin (1767-1782). The Mon are one of the ethnic minority groups in Thailand and Myanmar. Unlike some of the hill tribes and other ethnic minorities in Thailand, the Mon assimilated into Thai society and culture centuries ago, however they do try and maintain their own language, traditions, and culture.

the Tiger Shrine

After coffee, we began walking through the sleepy streets and alleyways of Phra Pradaeng to a very tiny temple called the Tiger Shrine. The Tiger Shrine is a small riverfront temple dedicated to the "Tiger God". It was a quiet late morning when we visited, and soft Chinese music and prayers played over the tinny speakers at the temple. We were the only visitors, although there was still incense burning in the burners.

The temple also seemed to be dedicated, at least in part, to two of the most popular monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty. There was a small shrine dedicated to King Rama V (Chulalongkorn the Great) and his Queen Consort, an a large wax statue of the late King Rama IX (Bhumibol the Great) during his time as a monk.

Tiger Shrine

The Tiger God, so Noi tells us, is a spirit who can transform from a tiger into a handsome man. The shrine is more Animist than Buddhist or even Hindu, I think. I had never seen the Tiger God before, even after six years in Thailand! I'm not sure if he's a local deity, an ancient pre-Buddhist deity, a Mon deity, or what. I wasn't able to find out much more information about the Tiger God after looking online, either. Well, just another mystery from this mysterious land!

the Tiger God

Then, we set off again, through a warren of raised wooden boardwalks and stilt houses set above the silty floodplain. There were no cars, and only the odd motorbike creeping cautiously along the wooden paths. We came presently to an old hospital. Walking through, we arrived in a dense banana grove.

a path through the banana grove

There ahead of us was the cracked white wall of Pom Puchao Fortress. The fort was one of twenty which was built during the reign of King Rama II (1809-1824). Puchao Fort was constructed in 1815 to defend Bangkok from Burmese invaders seeking to attack the city from the river.

Later, the fort was used to fight back against French attempts to invade Siam. After a struggle, Siamese forces were able to push the French back. Today, Thailand is the only country in Southeast Asia never to have been colonized by a foreign power.

the ruins of the old fort

The Victory Monument, which stands in a roundabout in the center of the city, is a monument to the Siamese victory over the French, and their continuing independence. "Thailand", after all, translates to "Land of the Free".

a quiet part of Phra Phradaeng

To build and defend the forts, the king brought 300 Mon men and their families to Phra Pradaeng. Today, the descendants of these families still live in the district, though the forts have been long since abandoned.

what remains of Pom Pu Chao Fort

Today, the river forts lay in ruin. Many have been lost to time, the rest are but crumbling piles of stone. Puchao, however, has been lovingly restored. As we were looking around, a caretaker came running up to us, talking excitedly to Noi about something. Noi translated for him, informing us that they were working on turning the old fort into a museum.

the fort defended Siam from invaders

The caretaker said he wanted to give each of us a brochure, then ran inside. He returned a moment later with a big cardboard box. These weren't just paper brochures... they were hard-cover books about the history of the fort and the committee that worked to restore them. The caretaker gave each of us a book for free. He seemed very excited by the eclectic group of foreigners traipsing through the banana grove to see his fortress!

fortress wall

Not long ago, Phra Pradaeng was nearly cut off from the rest of Bangkok. The only way to get to and from the district was via ferry. Now, two big bridges, Bhumibohl I and II, span the river. Phra Pradaeng is no longer so remote. It's a lot more accessible.

Bhumibol 2 Bridge behind a Buddhist temple

There are plenty of good and bad things that go along with this. Some are worried about it losing its status as the city's "Green Lung". On the other hand, the bridges have helped bring a lot more business and a stronger economy to the community. It just goes to show that not every situation is always so clear.

the bridge crossing the river

We crossed back over the river via ferry (for the fare of a steep 2 baht).

heading back to the city via ferry

By now, it was nearing midday, and the hot tropic sun was baking us all. I wouldn't have complained about any of that blessed rain from last weekend... floods or no!

a standing Buddha faces out towards the Chaophraya River

A walk through the scorching city brought us to Wat Song Tham Worawihan, a royal temple of the second grade. Though back in Bangkok, we were still way out of the city, and far away from anywhere I had ever been before.

it was hot - time for some coconut ice cream!

Some of the other adventurers were beginning to feel worn down by the heat and long distances on foot. We took a short rest for some coconut ice cream at the temple.

Wat Song Tham Worawihan 

The temple is built in a Mon style. Although I can't really tell the difference between Central Thai and Mon architecture, the chedi definitely stood out as unique.

the chedi at the temple is built in the Mon style

A chedi, or stupa, is a pyramidal Buddhist reliquary. They are built to house relics of the Buddha, and are found in temples throughout the Buddhist world. Many are metal or stone domes or spires. This one was white and pointed, its walls encircled with golden Buddha statues.

Buddha images at the chedi

Each Buddha image surrounding the base of the chedi has a particular meaning. Some represent the days of the week, and each represents a different aspect of the Buddha's teaching.

Noi told us that the design of this particular chedi is meant to represent the celestial crown of the Buddha.

a sleepy temple cat

We had one more place to go on our half-day walk through the remotest corners of Bangkok. We boarded yet anther ferry, chugged along the muddy water past a huge river lock built to prevent Bangkok from flooding (too badly), and crossed underneath the Bhumibol Bridge back near the center of the city.

the locks protect the city from floods

One more stop to go... and it was going to be crazy!

the tour group at the ruins of the old fortress