Thursday, May 17, 2018

Hoan Kiem Lake and the Jade Mountain Pagoda


The Turtle Tower

Just outside my door in Hanoi is Hoan Kiem Lake, the heart of the city's Old Quarter. It's a beautiful and calm space in the middle of the busy city, and I take a walk around it every day.


The Morning Sunlight Bridge
On the far end of the lake lies Jade Islet, the site of the Jade Mountain Temple. One morning, I crossed the "Morning Sunlight Bridge" from the lake shore to the island to visit the dual Confucian and Taoist temple.

crossing the bridge
The temple is beautiful and historic, and is dedicated to the legend of Hoan Kiem Lake. Long ago the Vietnamese emperor was fighting a war against invading Chinese forces. He was given a magical sword by the gods to fight off the Chinese. After successfully driving the invaders out of Vietnam, he rowed out to Hoan Kiem Lake and returned the sword to the "Golden Turtle God", who took it under the water for safekeeping. "Hoan Kiem"means "Lake of the "Returned Sword".

the turtle and the sword
Jade Islet is small, and the little temple is quiet and peaceful. A few bonsai trees are potted around the island, and a pagoda looks out over the calm waters of the lake. Although it's not a Buddhist temple, it's a bit "zen".

pagoda looking over the waters
The temple has changed a bit since I was here last. In the past four years, an awning has been constructed to protect the old wooden temple from the elements.

Jade Mountain Pagoda
One of the last of the Hoan Kiem turtles is stuffed and on display inside the temple. This species hasn't been seen in Hoan Kiem Lake since 2016, and it's believed that there are no more than a handful left in the world.

Hoan Kiem turtle
A priest was performing a ceremony inside one of the shrines. I believe it was a Taoist priest, though he could even have been a Buddhist monk. In Vietnam, like in China, there isn't much distinction between the "Triple Teachings" of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. Many people would identify as belonging to all three!

a ceremony inside a small shrine


Further out on the waters of the lake sits the Turtle Tower. This ancient tower was built to honor the magical turtle of legend. It's a symbol of Hanoi, and one of the most identified sites in the Old Quarter.

I love my walks around the lake! It's not such a long path, so sometimes I go around two or three times, enjoying the sights of the Old Quarter.

looking out at the Turtle Tower

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