Chiang Dao Cave Temple

Wat Tham Chiang Dao is, if not the most important Buddhist temple in Chiang Dao district, at least its most famous one.

Estimated to be 250–300 million years old, this ancient limestone cave system houses five main chambers, each with a mysterious and evocative name: the Reclining Buddha Chamber, the Water Chamber, the Horse Chamber, the Hidden Chamber, and the Crystal Chamber. 

A rickety wooden bridge groaned underfoot as we ventured across, its planks weathered by time. The sign's ominous message before us was clear: "Don't enter the cave without a guide. You will get lost." Nevertheless, Pinky and I cautiously stepped forward into the cave's darkness.

The sprawling forest monastery is located in the foothills of Doi Chiang Dao, and the cave (the eponymous Chiang Dao Cave) spreads out in a warrenlike labyrinth of natural tunnels inside the mountain itself.

As we stepped into the cave, the temperature instantly dropped.

Like many caves in Thailand, Tham Doi Chiang Dao in rich myth and legend. Local stories tell of Prince Chao Luang Kham Daeng of Phayao, who is said to have perished within the cavern's depths while chasing after a mythical golden deer, later getting lost and ultimately becoming the cave's guardian spirit.

Another tale speaks of the great sage Phra Rama Rishi, an ancient holy man who summoned spirits to create mythical artifacts and golden treasures, which are said to be hidden somewhere in the cave. These treasures, though tantalizing, have lured many to their doom, making the cave a solemn reminder of the karmic perils of greed.

We followed the string of humming lightbulbs deeper into the cavern as we explored the cave.

For just 200 baht, more adventurous travelers could hire one of the intrepid local guides, armed with nothing but a hissing and sputtering kerosene lantern, to take them on a tour of the cavern's deepest recesses. Pinky and I opted out of this. We were quite happy to stay within the steady orange light of the cave's electric bulbs.

We paid our respects at each of the cave temple's several shrines.

After making merit and praying at the cave's deepest Buddha statue, we were more than happy to make our way back to the surface.

And, although I brushed it off with a laugh in the moment, I couldn’t entirely dismiss my wife’s question about hearing whispers or voices in the caverns. 

I’m not one to believe in ghosts, but some things are better left unquestioned.

Back out in the fresh air, we stopped to pay our respects at a holy Banyon tree. This particular tree was planted by His Majesty King Rama IX decades ago, and today it grows strong, surrounded by amulets, prayer staves, and golden-leaved staffs propped up against its trunk to provide strength and support to the old tree.

We are up in the far north of Thailand now, and the architecture at some of the temples is starting to resemble more Burmese-looking designs. It's not surprising; the border is not far from here!

Visiting the temple was really fascinating. I love places that have a good legend behind them... especially if it's just a little bit spooky!