Wat Tham Pha Plong: a temple in the jungle

When we arose the next morning, around dawn, Doi Chiang Dao was completely obscured by clouds.

The kingdom's third-tallest mountain, which had loomed above us the day before, had disappeared entirely in the enveloping mists of the chilly northern morning.

Our driver picked us up in his car just before breakfast. He was the son of the middle-aged yellow truck driver we had hired the day before; the older man had given us his son's phone number to call that day, as he was going to be on "school bus duty", picking kids up in the rural province and taking them to and from school in his yellow truck.

When we arrived at the temple, it too was shrouded in a thick layer of fog. We knew the mountain was just ahead of us, and yet the cold, grey sky covered it completely.

Pinky and I set off to visit the temple. Wat Tham Pha Plong is an old Buddhist monastery which is located on the top of a small mountain in Chiang Dao.

One must walk up several hundred steep steps through the jungle to reach the prayer hall and monk's quarters, which are located in a hollowed-out portion of the mountain far above the parking lot.

It was a very early morning and, save for the lone foreign birder with his extremely powerful camera lens whom we passed silently as we made our way up the steps, we saw nobody.

This was the northern Thai jungle, in all of its misty fecundity. Leaves the size of a baby elephant sprang from the damp ground, and ancient moss-covered trees creaked as we walked past.

The air was alive with morning birdsong, and I was able to register several new birds in my life list! Chief among these was the Asian fairy-bluebird, a beautiful blue and black bird traditionally considered sacred by the Tagalog people of the Philippines.

As we walked, something moved in the overgrowth just off of the trail before us. I jumped, startled, to see a large spotted cat step out onto the trail. He took one look at us, turned around, and bolted back into the jungle.

By the time Pinky had turned around at my gasp, the cat was gone.

A bit shaken, we continued on. Later, I did some research and discovered that it was most likely a leopard cat, a rare spotted wild cat, similar to an American bobcat but with leopard-like spots. These elusive cats are found throughout the jungles of Southeast Asia, and while they are not necessarily endangered, they are very shy and rarely spotted by humans. 

I was really lucky to come across one! I only wish that I could have snapped a photo, but he was just too fast for me.

Ahead of us, a pagoda emerged from the mists. It was only just visible due to its covering of blue tarps, a sign of the temple's ongoing restoration. From our vantage point, it was barely discernible. We pressed onward, through the jungle path and towards the heart of the monastery.

We arrived at the top of the stairs, sweating from humidity in spite of the cool northern Thai air. The jungle was stifling, and it was nice to take a small break in the cave temple atop the mountain.

The cavern, covered by a modern roof, was spotlessly clean - floored with marble tiles and a beautiful scarlet rug. Each flat surface of the natural rocks was adorned with glittering golden Buddha statues, and a replica of the Emerald Buddha sat in the place of honor at the far back, flanked by another Buddhist shrine and the relics of an important local monk.

A collection of Phra Ajarn Sim's bones (1909–1992), one of the pioneers of the Thai Forest Tradition of Theravada Buddhism, resides in a glass coffin at the feet of the golden statue of the revered monk. Born in Sakon Nakhon Province, Phra Ajarn Sim was known for his meditation practice, strict adherence to monastic discipline, and profound teachings on mindfulness and impermanence. 

A display of his few meager belongings, those permitted to a monk (namely his razor, a collection of dhamma books, a flashlight, and his beggar's bowl), is also on display, offering visitors a glimpse into the simplicity and dedication of his life.

Eventually, we made our way down the winding, misty staircase back towards the waiting car.

It was still early in the morning, so we asked our driver to take us to a local cafe for a late breakfast and coffee.

TATA Chiang Dao Cafe sits on a hill overlooking an expanse of Chiang Dao Wilderness.

Pinky and I ordered iced Thai coffee and a plate of basil chicken and found a seat to relax and take in the scenery which was spreading out before us.

We still had more of the district to explore. After our meal, we got back in the car to head towards our next destination - one of Chiang Mai Province's many beautiful national parks.