Yesterday was the first day of Diwali, the Hindu Festival of Lights! I don't know a ton about Diwali, but when I heard that there was going to be a Diwali festival and market at ICONSiam shopping mall, I decided to head out to the riverside to check it out.
The festival was set up in the basement area of the shopping mall, and was a beautiful cacophony of color, sound, and delicious smells. Off to one side was a large flower display made in the likeness of Ganesh, the Hindu elephant-headed god of art and remover of obstacles. Ganesh is also a popular god in Thai culture, and passing shoppers would stop to bow, pray, or leave an offering at the colorful shrine.
A large area of the hall was dedicated to food! Dozens of Indian restaurants from all across Bangkok had set up stalls, and the market was abuzz with laughing, music, and the incredible spicy smells of delicious Indian cuisine.
Of course, I was instantly hungry, so I wandered through the market area, picking up a few different dishes to try for my lunch. Then, I found a free table, and sat down to eat. I'm a big believer in the idea that the best way to celebrate any holiday or festival is through food!
My main course was a savory and heavily spiced prawn biryani, a rice dish cooked with all sorts of comforting Indian spices and served with a generous portion of delicious Thai prawns.
I also ordered a vegetable samosa which came fresh right out of the fryer, and two pieces of gulab jamun, a traditional Indian sweet made from khoya (milk-solids) soaked in a sweet sugar syrup.
And finally, the lunch wouldn't be complete without a cup of strong sweet masala chai (black tea boiled with spices).
But what is Diwali, exactly?
Diwali is sometimes likened to Christmas, as it is a time of gift giving (and, from what I understand, something of a commercialized holiday in modern times). It is the Festival of Lights, a holiday which symbolizes the spiritual victory of light over darkness, good over evil, and knowledge over ignorance.
During Diwali, Indian families will clean their homes, decorate houses and shops with flowers and lanterns, pray at the temple, light fireworks, and feast. It seems like quite a fun time!
After lunch, I took the boat back across the river to Charoenkrung Road. I realized that I was only a kilometer or so from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, the oldest and most important Hindu temple in all of Thailand.
The front of the temple presents a dazzling and colorful collection of images of Hindu gods and goddesses, and it was such a stunning and eye-catching building that I wondered why I had never stopped by to see it before.
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple is also known as "Wat Khaek", a Thai name meaning "Temple of the Guests". It's got a fascinating and rich history tied to the kingdom's substantial Thai-Indian population.
When India became a British colony in 1858, some people preferred to leave their home rather than live under the Raj. A not-insignificant number of Indian immigrants made their way to Thailand, and built Sri Maha Mariamman Temple in 1879.
Today, a large number of the Thai-Indian population enjoys full Thai citizenship. Much like the Thai-Chinese community, the Thai-Indian community in Bangkok is an important part of the city's rich and diverse cultural heritage.
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The temple's great doors were closed, perhaps in preparation for evening Diwali festivities, but peering through the gates, I could see a white-robed priest pacing through the grounds. I wasn't sure if he was in prayer or meditation, or was perhaps just making sure that everything looked perfect for the evening's ceremonies.
Outside, vendors were selling marigold garlands. Visitors, not only Indian but also many Thais, were bringing offerings and donations to the temple for Diwali.
Thailand is a Buddhist country, but there's a deep element of Hinduism running through Thai culture, and Hindu gods are venerated in shrines and even at Buddhist temples in Thailand. Even though they belong to a different religion, Thai Buddhists often visit the Hindu temple to pray and make offerings, and it is believed that the Hindu gods can give blessings of wealth, luck, happiness, and love.
After all, the Hindu gods play a large role in the story of the life of the Buddha.
I'd like to visit the temple sometime, and hopefully have the chance to go inside. But for now, Happy Diwali!
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