I don't often cross the river from Bangkok into Thonburi, but lately I've been wanting to get to explore the lesser-known western banks of the Chao Phraya River.
After the Fall of Ayutthaya and the death of King Ekkathat, the ancient royal capital was sacked by Burmese forces, and the remnants of the Siamese army, now under the command of General Taksin, who was proclaimed King of Siam, regrouped in Thonburi on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River. Thonburi was declared the new capital of Siam, and Taksin succeeded in reunifying Siam after its collapse and seizure the Burmese and various warlords who had taken over parts of the country in the power vacuum left by Ayutthaya.
The short-lived Thonburi Kingdom (1767-1782) lasted for only one reign before Taksin was succeeded by King Rama I of the current Chakri Dynasty and the capital was moved across the river to Bangkok, but without Thonburi and King Taksin the Great, Thailand as we know it may well not have survived to the present day.
On an early morning, I set off to explore the neighborhoods behind Wat Arun to find the neighborhood's hidden gems and discover some of its fascinating history. My walk began at Wat Ratchasittharam Rachaworawihan (more commonly called Wat Plub), a second-class royal temple.
The temple itself was established during the Ayutthaya period but was promoted to a royal temple during the reign of King Rama I. Wat Plub is known as a center for teaching meditation, and members of the royalty, including King Rama III who spent his monkhood here, were sent to learn and practice with the head abbot.
Just off to the side is a chapel which was built by a renowned nun named Issarawadi Paramitra, who has been a nun for over half a century. She's often found in and around the chapel, but unfortunately when I visited, the chapel was closed. I would have liked to have gone inside because the chapel contains a pair of Buddha footprints (unusual, because you almost always see only one on its own). After exploring the peaceful grounds for a while, I left the temple and continued walking through the quiet neighborhood.
Just down the road is Kudi Charoenpat, the only remaining mosque for Bangkok's Persian community. During the Ayutthaya period, Persian merchants became very powerful, building their wealth through trade. The mosque was established in 1785 and has been under the care of one family since, with the responsibility being passed down from generation to generation.
Unique among mosques is the Bang Luang Mosque, or Kudi Kao, which was built in 1782 in a Thai architectural style. It reminded me of the syncretic architecture of Bangkok's Holy Redeemer Church.
I had been walking for a while now, and I was ready to take a break. My route led me to the banks of the river, and I walked along the riverside walkway to a nearby cafe for a refreshing iced coffee.
Kanoon Farung (Khanom Farang - ขนมฝรั่ง) at Baan Kudichin (Bangkok's Old Portuguese Village)
Nearby stand the slowly rotting ruins of the two-story "Windsor House" built during the reign of King Mongkut by Louis Windsor, a wealthy British merchant who owned Windsor Department Store on Charoen Krung Road.
After finishing my coffee, I continued my walk along the riverside, arriving at Wat Kanlayanamit Woramahawihan.
Architecturally, Wat Kanlayanamit blends traditional Thai and Chinese influences, characteristic of Rama III’s reign, with colorful ceramic tiles, Chinese-style pagodas, and intricate stone sculptures. Overlooking the river, the temple has long been a spiritual landmark where worshippers pray for good fortune, harmonious relationships, and safe travels.
Walking on, I passed Ton Son Mosque, the oldest mosque in Bangkok and possibly in Thailand. The mosque was built in 1688 during the reign of King Narai of Ayutthaya and is a shared Shia and Sunni mosque of the Javanese tradition.
Next, I walked to the King Taksin Shrine.
Wat Hong is another second-grade royal temple. It dates back to the late Ayutthaya era and was built by a wealthy Chinese merchant named Hong.
My walk had taken me back to Wat Arun, the Temple of the Dawn. I've been there several times and didn't necessarily feel like paying 200 baht for a ticket to one of Bangkok's more touristy temples. Don't get me wrong, it's beautiful and I enjoy visiting it, but today, I wasn't really in the mood for crowds of tourists.
The temples main hall is surrounded by walls and 24 small kuti, or small single-cell rooms used for meditation. The gable on each one is unique, some depict animals, others depict flowers or plants. In the past, each was painted in a different color, but now they are all a uniform white, which looks more serious.
About 5% of Thailand's population are Muslim, and this area contains one of the city's predominantly Muslim communities.
The history of Islam in Thailand can be traced back to two main waves of influence. The first came through Persian, Arab, and Indian merchants, traders, and emissaries, many of whom were associated with Shia traditions, though Sunnis were also present. The second wave came primarily from neighboring Southeast Asia. Malay Muslims, Cham refugees from present-day southern Vietnam, and Indonesians often arrived as mercenaries, migrants, or war captives. Over the centuries, these diverse groups gradually assimilated into Thai society, contributing to a distinctive blend of Islamic culture within the country.
My walk took me past the Dilfulla Mosque, which was founded by Adam Ali, an Indian Shia textile merchant-adventurer from the era of Kings Rama II and III.
The most famous Persian-Thai family is the Bunnag Family, the descendants of Sheikh Ahmad of Qom. Sheikh Ahmed rose through the ranks of the Ayutthaya Court in the 16th century, eventually gaining the title of "Lord of the Right Pier", giving him authority over trade with all foreigners except the Chinese.
In 1611, Sheikh Ahmed defeated an uprising of Japanese merchants who attempted a coup against the king. The family eventually converted to Buddhism and after the fall of Ayutthaya. became powerful allies of the Chakri Dynasty. Members of the Bunnag Family have served as royal regents, ministers, and high-ranking politicians.
Unique among mosques is the Bang Luang Mosque, or Kudi Kao, which was built in 1782 in a Thai architectural style. It reminded me of the syncretic architecture of Bangkok's Holy Redeemer Church.
There is no strict rule governing the shape or design of a mosque, and Islamic buildings often reflect the local architectural style of the region in which they are built. This particular mosque was originally entirely white, but during a recent renovation its windows and doors were painted green, the color strongly associated with Islam. Though shaped like a Thai Buddhist temple, the roof tiles are green as well, differing them from the three-colored tiles that are commonly used in traditional Buddhist temples.
Masjid Bang Luang is the only Thai-style mosque in the world!
After walking for a while, I was ready for a rest. I found a small cafe on the river and ordered an iced coffee.
I had entered Baan Kudichin, a neighborhood dating back to the Ayutthaya period, and most famous for its beautiful Santa Cruz Church.
The neighborhood was originally built by Portuguese merchants and immigrants who arrived in Bangkok after the fall of Ayutthaya.
Baan Kudichin is also known for "Khanom Farang", or "Foreigner Snack", a dry and flaky bread-like cake topped with dried fruit and dusted in brown sugar, which developed from the bread and pastries brought to Siam by Portuguese merchants and diplomats.
Santa Cruz Church itself dates back to 1770 and is the oldest church in Bangkok. Until the completion of Assumption Cathedral in 1821, Santa Cruz served as the seat of the Apostolic Vicariate of Siam.
The old wooden house was once quite remarkable and was built in the "gingerbread house" style of the time. Today, it's a haunted-looking ruin in an overgrown yard and is a little bit spooky.
Wat Kanlayanamit is a historic riverside temple on the Thonburi side of the river founded in 1825 during the reign of King Rama III.
The temple was built on land donated by a wealthy nobleman and named by the king to mean “Temple of True Friendship,” reflecting on the donor's spirit of generosity.
The temple is best known for its enormous Buddha image, Phra Phuttha Trairattananayok (popularly called Luang Pho To), which stands about 14 meters tall and 11 meters wide, making it one of the largest seated Buddhas in Bangkok.
When Ayutthaya fell, fleeing Shia Persian Muslims were forced to bury their dead at the existing cemetery at Ton Son Mosque (in the Islamic tradition, the dead are not cremated, but are instead buried within 24 hours). The Shia Muslims were eventually given their own land, the families who were
buried here continue to use their plots and come to pay respects to their ancestors.
Taksin is a complicated figure in Thai history. A Chinese-Thai aristocrat and military leader of the Ayutthaya Kingdom, Taksin (also called Zhèng Zhāo) was instrumental in reunifying Siam after its disastrous defeat and saving the kingdom from almost certain destruction.
His reign was characterized by numerous wars, but Taksin also focused on rebuilding infrastructure and improving trade, economics, and welfare, leading to a new era of stability and normalcy in the newly established Thonburi Kingdom.
The immense stress of ruling Siam during such tumultuous years took its toll on the king, and near the end of his reign, he began showing signs of cracking. He developed a sort of religious fanaticism, believing himself to be a future Buddha and expecting the color of his blood to change from red to pure white. He began giving lectures to monks, and eventually required the monkhood to recognize him as a "sotāpanna", or one who has embarked on the first stage of enlightenment. Those who refused were flogged or sentenced to labor.
He became increasingly erratic, yet a strong ruler was needed on the throne in order to keep the barely unified kingdom together. Eventually, a faction led by Phraya San seized the capital, enacting a coup that removed the king from the throne in just one night.
General Chao Phraya Chakri rushed to Thonburi with his forces, ending the coup and restoring peace to the capital. He was subsequently declared the new king (Rama I), establishing the Chakri Dynasty which still rules Thailand to this day.
Despite his failings, Taksin is still revered as the man who saved the kingdom, and has been granted the honorific "Maharat", meaning "The Great".
The vihan, or sermon hall, is where the main Buddha image is enshrined. Made from gold and dating to around 1520 in the Sukhothai period, the statue is a contemporary to the Golden Buddha at Wat Traimit in Chinatown. This Buddha statue has a similar story to the legendary Golden Buddha in that it was covered in plaster and forgotten about until one day the abbot of the temple dropped an amulet. As he bent down to pick it up, he noticed a crack in the plaster and saw that inside was a statue of pure gold. Or so the legend goes.
Thonburi Palace, located just behind Wat Arun on the riverfront, was the royal residence of King Taksin. Today, the palace serves as the headquarters of the Royal Thai Navy and is closed to visitors except for one week every December. I've never gotten to see Thonburi Palace... I somehow seem to miss the open house ever year.
I took the 5-baht ferry across the river back to Bangkok, where I found myself just down the road from Wat Pho.
My adventure was at an end, and I was tired and hungry. I began walking towards the nearby MRT station, but on my way, something caught my eye. A small restaurant with a Michelin award sticker in the window was just opening for the day, and I decided to be spontaneous and stop in for lunch.
Somtum Der is an Issan (northeastern Thai) restaurant which sells upscale som tam (papaya salad). I ordered a spicy mama noodle som tam salad with garlic fried pork neck for my lunch. It was a nice way to end the adventure, and I got to sit at the counter in front of the kitchen and watch as my som tam was prepared.
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