Eat, Shop, Pray

"Eat, Pray, Shop" is a promotion to encourage visitors to Bangkok's Ratchaprasong area (famous for Siam Square, Chulalongkorn University, and its mega malls like Siam Paragon and Central World) to discover the quieter, hidden spiritual side of the busy intersection.

The initiative encourages visitors to go on a sort of "mini pilgrimage" to a series of Hindu shrines sprinkled across the area. I've done this walk before, and even wrote about it on this blog, but I didn't really go very in-depth with it. Today, I'm heading out to Ratchaprasong to Eat, Shop, and Pray... not necessarily in that order.

EAT

I started my adventure with an early lunch at Siam Paragon. Even though I've been going to Paragon for over a decade, I'm not sure I've ever actually eaten at, or even really looked closely at, the famous mall's food court.

The food court is actually a hub with small branches of some of Bangkok's most famous restaurants, including several Michelin-starred culinary icons.

After much deliberation, I finally decided to get my lunch from Here Hai, a Bib Gourmand award-winning seafood restaurant famous for their "Insane Crab Fried Rice". 

I placed my order and paid 500 baht (or around $15... insane is right! This had better be good) and was told that it would take about a quarter of an hour for them to make my order. I found a table and bought an iced coffee. I don't mind the wait. I've heard that at the main branch on Sukhumvit Road, you sometimes have to queue up for an hour or more to get a table.

Fifteen minutes later, the puck buzzed and I collected my meal. I'm so glad that I ordered the smaller size! The serving was massive and piled high with a mountain of fresh, juicy crab meat. The fried rice itself was made with scrambled eggs and a lot of "wok hei" (the classic smoky flavor that you get from stir-frying in a wok), and the meal was served with a classic spicy green Thai seafood sauce, which added a really fresh kick to the plate. Not a bad way to start the day!

PRAY

As I left Siam Paragon completely stuffed, it was time for the second and biggest part of my adventure. It was time for the pilgrimage to begin.

Thailand is a deeply spiritual country with around 95% of the country practicing some form of Buddhism. However, also has a deep and ancient influence from Hinduism as well as from Chinese and indigenous animism, and many of these traditions have syncretized over the centuries.

Thao Maha Phrom Shrine (Erawan Shrine)

The Thao Maha Phrom Shrine, better known as the Erawan Shrine, is one of Bangkok's most iconic landmarks.

Built in 1956 on the intersection of Rama I and Ratchadamri Road, the shrine is located just outside of the Grand Erawan Hotel from which it gets its name.

From the start, construction of the hotel was plagued with accidents, injuries, and costly mishaps, including the loss of a shipload of expensive imported Italian marble which had been ordered for the building's construction.

An astrologer suggested that the intersection was cursed with bad karma because this spot at the intersection had once been a place where criminals were put on public display and because the hotel had laid the foundations on an inauspicious day.

To counter the negative energy, a large and elaborate shrine was designed by the Department of Fine Arts and built by the hotel. After that, construction was able to proceed without any further problems.

The Erawan Shrine is dedicated to the Hindu god Brahma. More specifically, Phra Phrom, Brahma's Thai representation.

In Hinduism, Brahma is the four-faced god of creation within the Trimurti, the trinity of supreme divinity that also includes Vishnu (the preserver) and Shiva (the destroyer). The trinity represent the constant and inescapable cycle of creation, destruction, and rebirth.

In Thailand, many Hindu gods are venerated by Buddhists outside of strictly Hindu traditions. Similar to other Hindu gods, the worship of Brahma has been syncretized with Thai animist practices and adopted as a protective force within Buddhism. Today, Phra Phrom is seen as a guardian deity and a bringer of luck and good fortune.

The four faces of Brahma are sometimes said to represent the past, the present, the future, and the eternal "now". They can also represent loving kindness, compassion, sympathy and equanimity. Others say they represent career, family, wealth and wisdom.

Glittering, golden, and opulent, the shrine attracts thousands of visitors every day and is one of the most sacred shrines in all of Bangkok. Whatever one believes the four faces represent, worshipers are sure to pray and make offerings of marigold garlands at each of the four cardinal directions.

A troupe of traditional Thai dancers and musicians perform spiritual dances at the shrine as a form of worship and offering. If you make a donation and queue up, you can hire the dancers for a prayer honoring Brahma. It's a popular way to receive a blessing before a big life event.

I've never done this, but it would be interesting to experience some day. I visited the Erawan Shrine on one of my very first days out in Bangkok back after I first moved to the city, and I remember being very intrigued and moved by the prayer dances.

Indra Shrine

The Erawan Shrine is by far the most well-known shrine at Ratchaprasong, but it's far from the only one. Just a short walk down the street brought me to the Indra Shrine.

Indra, called Phra In in Thai, is the Hindu god of thunder and the heavens and is the king of the gods. He is worshiped as the remover of obstacles and the bringer of happiness. The statue at the shrine depicts Indra carrying a dagger, a trident, a bow, and a conch shell, and is carved from solid jade.

The god is very important in Thai culture. The long ceremonial name of Bangkok (the longest place name in the world) refers to the city as being "given by Indra", and the god appears on the official seal of the city of Bangkok riding his great elephant, Erawan (after whom the hotel is named).

Indra is seen as a protector and defender, and in Buddhism, it is believed that Indra spoke with the Boddhisatva (Buddha-to-be) and convinced him to reincarnate on earth. Boddhisatva had already achieved perfection throughout his previous lives, but Indra convinced him to come back down to teach.

Despite having achieved perfection, the Boddhisatva who would be born as Prince Siddharta Gautama, like the Hindu gods, had not yet achieved enlightenment, and had not yet escaped from Samsara - the Buddhist cycle of suffering through birth, death, and rebirth.

In Buddhism, not even the gods are spared the cycle of suffering and must continuously work to attain enlightenment in order to escape and become one with the universe.

Worshipers visit the shrine to make offerings and to pray for prosperity and protection from evil.

Narayana Shrine

I found the Narayana Shrine just across the busy street in front of the InterContinental Hotel. The shrine is the centerpiece of a fountain in front of the hotel and depicts the god Vishnu (called Narayana in Thai) the god of protection standing atop the shoulders of Garuda, a Hindu deity most often depicted as the mount of Vishnu.

Garuda also plays a very important role as a symbol of Thailand. The red-colored eagle god is the emblem of Thailand and appears on Thai baht notes, on royal and government documents, passports, work permits, and nearly everything official.

In Hinduism, Vishnu is the preserver, ensuring that good prevails over evil.

In Hinduism, Buddha is sometimes considered to be an avatar or form of Vishnu, although the worship of Buddha within Hinduism is rarer than the worship of Hindu gods within Buddhism.

Lakshmi Shrine

The next two shrines are harder to find. Even though I've visited them before, I still got turned around trying to figure out how to get to them, and got a little bit lost inside Gaysorn Plaza, a small luxury shopping mall just down the road from the InterContinental.

I had to take the elevator to the fourth floor of one section of the mall, where I was able to walk out onto the rooftop to reach the shrines.

The shrine area was surprisingly busy when I arrived, with vendors selling garlands, incense, and candles for making offerings and packs of people praying and making merit.

The first shrine is to Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, fortune, prosperity, fertility, and abundance. No wonder her shrine is so popular!

Lakshmi is the consort of Vishnu and is seen as the ideal Hindu wife, exemplifying loyalty and devotion to her husband.

She, along with Parvati and Sarasvati, form the trinity of goddesses called the Tridevi, the feminine counterpart to the Trimurti of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva.

The goddess, draped in silk robes that are changed regularly similar to the outfits of the Emerald Buddha, is adorned in bracelets and pearls and wears an elaborate golden crown. She is elevated on a raised platform and looks across the city, offering her blessings of wealth and success to the downtown shopping district.

The base of the shrine is ringed by a circular waterway, and devotees can float lotus blossoms in the running water in offering.

Jatulokbal Shrine

On another corner of the roof stands the Jatulokbal Shrine.

Jatulokbal is actually the combined form of the "Four Heavenly Kings" with each of the four constituent gods representing one of the four cardinal directions.

The four faces of the shrine represent the gods Vesuwan, Kuvera, Thao and Todtarode, with each offering its protection to one of the four cardinal directions. Jatulokbal is the god of the four directions, and is believed to fight for peace on earth and to offer protection from danger and evil.

In Buddhism, Jatulokbal is said to be the protector of Buddhist faith and teachings. As a protector, the shrine is frequented by those who work dangerous jobs, such as police officers. As a matter of fact, the headquarters of the Royal Thai Police is just across the street.

Umathevi Shrine

Further down the road outside the Big C Supermarket across from Central World shopping mall is the shrine to Umathevi, the goddess of compassion.

Umathevi is the consort of the god Shiva and is honored for her strong devotion to her family. Those seeking help in family matters will pray and make offerings of fruit, flowers, and incense at the Umathevi Shrine.

Trimurti Shrine

The Trimurti Shrine, which is built as a replica of an ancient statue from Ayutthaya, was originally built to balance out the powerful spiritual forces emanating from the Erawan Shrine across the intersection.

As I mentioned earlier, Trimurti is the trinity of the three supreme gods in Hinduism, Vishnu, Shiva, and Brahma. In Thai culture, Trimurti is also venerated as the god of love and unity, but this hasn't always been the case.

Brahmanism and Hinduism in Thailand dates back hundreds of years, and Trimurti was originally associated with success, prosperity, and happiness. In recent decades, Bangkokians have firmly established the Trimurti Shrine as a place for those searching for love to go to pray.

It is said that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens every Tuesday and Thursday evening at precisely 9:30 p.m., a time when the shrine becomes especially busy with worshippers. Those seeking blessings in love traditionally present nine red roses, together with red incense sticks and red candles in offering. The shrine is particularly popular during Valentine’s season, when many come to pray for romance and devotion.

Does it work? Well, a few years back one of my wife's friends went to pray and take part in the ritual of offering at the shrine, and she found a boyfriend just a few days later, so you tell me!

Ganesh Shrine

A shrine to Lord Ganesh, the elephant-headed god of success and wisdom sits just next to the Trimurti Shrine.

Ganesh is venerated for his wisdom, intelligence, and virtue, and is especially popular with students (particularly before an exam).

The god is also considered to be a patron of the arts, and is venerated by musicians, writers, actors, and artists of all sorts. Ganesh appears on the seal of the Thai government's Fine Arts Department, as well as on the symbol of Silpakorn University, a renowned for its fine arts program.

Wat Pathum Wanaram

The Hindu Shrines aren't the only spiritual site in Ratchaprasong, however. Sandwiched between the gargantuan Central World and the luxurious Siam Paragon sits Wat Pathum Wanaram, a serene and quiet Buddhist temple hidden amidst the chaos of the busy shopping district.

Wat Pathum was built in 1857 by King Rama IV as a royal temple and private place of worship located near his residence at Sa Pathum Palace (today the royal residence of HRH Princess Sirindhorn).

The temple's name means "Lotus Forest Temple", and it's not hard to see why. Even today, surrounded as it is by the constant rush of business and commerce, the temple grounds are a literal oasis of tranquil ponds and greenery.

The temple's main ordination hall (ubosot) enshrines a Buddha image called "Phra Sai Metta Dayan", cast in the Sukothai style. 

If you didn't know where to look, it could be very surprising to discover just how spiritual this neighborhood actually is. The temple and shrines are all hidden in plain sight and are easy to overlook if you aren't actively seeking them out.

But then again, this is Thailand, and spirituality tends to permeate everything here in the Land of Smiles.

SHOP

There is, of course, no shortage of malls and shopping centers in Ratchaprasong. In fact, this is one of, if not the most famous shopping districts in all of Southeast Asia. From Siam Discovery and Siam Paragon all the way to Central World and Central Embassy, it's hard to walk more than five minutes without running into another luxury megamall.

My walk ended up at MBK Center, one of the city's most well-known malls that's a chaotic jumble of souvenir shops and cell phone stores. It's where I bought my SIM card years and years ago, and where I used to get cheap bootlegged DVDs back in the days before streaming. I've also bought and resold old used phones there more times than I can count.

MBK is now home to a branch of Don Don Donki, a wacky Japanese department store filled with all sorts of stuff and a perpetually playing upbeat theme song. It's wild, and a lot of fun.

I got a cold drink and browsed at Donki for a while to cool off before taking the BTS back home.

It was a good way to pass a half day, and it just goes to show you that there's always something to discover and adventure to be found, even in places you've been a million times. It's just a matter of perspective.