Discovering "Thainess" at Museum Siam

I didn't really plan to visit it, but while on my Heritage Line Tour last weekend, I came out of Sanam Chai Station right at the front door of Museum Siam. It was an early morning, but already very hot. I needed to cool off for a bit, so I decided to visit the museum cafe for an iced coffee and some air conditioning. I decided that I ought to buy a ticket and see the museum while in the neighborhood.

Museum Siam

The Museum Siam is relatively new. The museum opened in 2007, but it is housed in a historic building in the Old Town that once belonged to the Ministry of Commerce.

Museum Siam is a discovery museum dedicated to exploring Thai national identity, especially the identity of the Rattanakosin Kingdom (the current era since the capital was relocated to Bangkok).

the museum courtyard

It may sound strange, but when you get down to it, it's actually quite difficult to define what is actually "Thai". For centuries, Siam was at the crossroads of Asia. The culture has been influenced by India, the Khmer Empire, Vietnam, China, Malaysia, Animism, Hinduism, Buddhism, and has even been influenced by the Westerners who have been living and working in Siam since at least the 16th century.

is this modern dress Thai?

The word "Thainess" was created by the government in an effort to promote a Thai national identity. It's a blend of cultures, traditions, beliefs, and behaviors that all come together to create the identity of the Thai people.

flags of Thailand

Different rooms explored the concept of what makes "Thainess", and the way in which Foreign visitors see Thailand differs from the way that Thais see their own country.

The exhibits also traced the origins of "Thai" things. For example, the royal throne room takes inspiration from Hindu-Buddhist cosmology. The throne represents the mountain at the center of the universe, which symbolizes the royal divine right to rule the kingdom.

replica of the celestial throne room

I entered one room on the second floor to be greeted by a huge statue! Nang Kwak is a Thai goddess or spirit of fortune. She's always depicted as kneeling and waving with a smile on her face. These statues usually sit in restaurants or shops, and are believed to bring in business. This particular statue, however, was a monument to Thai commercialism, and the offerings in front of her were not the traditional incense and candles, but rather lipstick and nail polish!

a shrine for Nang Kwak

This room contained displays of "Thainess" that foreigners would never think about! While most visitors imagine tuk-tuks, longail boats on the Chaophraya River, temples, pad thai, and more, very few know about the weird and unique things that make up daily life in Thailand. For example, this "ticket tube" (no idea what I should actually call it). When you are on a bus or a boat in Bangkok, a ticket-taker will walk up and down the aisle rattling this tube which is full of coins and rolls of tickets. They sell the tickets, taking your coins, making change, and ripping a tiny square ticket off of the roll. This has become so ubiquitous in my life that I hardly think anything of it anymore, but it is a perfect example of "Thainess" that tourists might not get to see.

a ticket tube for buses and boats

Another "daily life" item on display was this bright orange reflective vest worn by motorcycle taxi drivers. I never take the motorcycle taxis (unless it's completely unavoidable) because I am terrified of them. They are, however, the fastest and most convenient way to get around the traffic in the city.

motorcycle taxi vest

One most impressive room was part shrine and part exhibit. In this big room, Buddhas, shrines, amulets, and all sorts of spiritual items were on display. A sign encouraged visitors to pray if they felt like they should, or just take time to learn more about Thai spirituality.

Here you can see a spirit house and a collection tiny monks. The monk statues are super lifelike, and are meant to help you remember the teachings of important abbots.

Here, an exhibit at the museum explored how fortune telling has evolved in Thailand. You'll see these "kau chim" (or, Chinese fortune-telling sticks) at nearly every temple in Thailand. Hold the cup between your hands and shake it. Every stick has a number on it. The first stick that falls out of the cup as you shake it is your fortune. The fortunes are posted nearby. Now, it's not uncommon to see these automatic fortune machines, usually at bus stations or markets. Instead of shaking the cup of sticks, a randomized LED light will go around a circle, stopping in front of a number. That's your fortune!

fortune telling tools in Thailand

Thai spirituality is a beautiful blend of Buddhism, Ancient Animism (and a bit of Chinese Taoism), and Hinduism. The Hindu gods are revered in Thai religion alongside the Buddha. There are Hindu shrines all throughout Bangkok and the central region, especially. In fact, the royal family even maintains a small and secretive caste of royal court Brahmins, a gift from India to the Ayutthaya Kingdom long ago, who perform various royal rites, including the coronation and the annual Plowing Ceremony.

borrowed spiritual influences

Of course, Thailand is over anything else a Buddhist country. Over 95% of the country adhere to the faith, and it is the official religion of the nation. The most important relic in all of Thailand (and throughout Southeast Asia and the Theravada Buddhist world) is the Emerald Buddha (replica seen on left). The Emerald Buddha is housed at the beautiful Wat Phra Kaew (at the Grand Palace) in Bangkok.

Buddhist iconography in Thailand

A final room held a temporary exhibit about sak yant, sacred Buddhist tattoos. The tattoos are applied by monks, and are believed to protect the bearer from danger. They are most popular with soldiers, policemen, drivers, and other jobs that can be a little bit dangerous. It's an interesting part of Thai culture.

Buddhist tattoos

I think from now on when I have visitors to Bangkok, I'll definitely take them to the Museum Siam, especially now that there's an MRT station that stops right at its front doors! It's a lot of fun for Thais and longterm expats who can smile at the very Thai things that they have on display, but it's also a fun way for visitors to learn something about the "real" Thailand.