I arrived at Bangkok's iconic Hua Lampong Station, which was completed over 100 years ago in 1916. The country's rail network is outgrowing the historic station, though, and it is due to be replaced by the brand-new Bang Sue Grand Station sometime next year.
I arrived a little early, and climbed up to the terrace overlooking the waiting area to take some photos of the historic old station. I wasn't the only photographer there that Saturday morning. The beautiful Italian neo-classical architecture, green vaulting stained glass windows, and chaotic bustle of local life make Hua Lampong a great place for photography.
I met up with the rest of my group, and we arranged our tickets to the Hua Takhe Market. We would be taking a local commuter train out past the airport. The hour-long journey cost a full 7 Thai Baht ($0.23).
It was a commuter train, which meant no reserved seats and no air-conditioning, but I got a seat by a big open window, ordered a can of iced coffee from a vendor walking along the tracks, and settled in for the journey.
Due to the government's social distancing measures, only one person could sit per seat, so the train was not crowded at all, and the ride was quite comfortable. With the cool wind blowing in my face and the rumbling chugging of the train down the tracks, I soon found myself a little sleepy, despite the coffee!
Riding a Thai commuter train is fun, because at every stop, local vendors will walk down the aisles selling drinks and food packed in plastic bags to the passengers.
It took about an hour to get to Hua Takhe Station. Although we ran more or less right beneath the elevated tracks of the much faster Airport Rail Link, the local train had much more of a sense of charm and atmosphere that the ARL lacks.
We disembarked at the station, and the train lurched off towards its next destination, leaving our little group standing alone on a quiet platform.
Our guide led us past a pond and through a quiet neighborhood to where a historic 100 year-old canal cut through the central Thai countryside.
This canal-side community is named "Hua Takhae", which mean's "Crocodile Head". 100 years ago, when they were digging the canal, someone dug up a crocodile skull and the name stuck.
Sadly, the market burnt down in 2014, but thanks to the efforts of an arts department at a nearby university, it has since been rebuilt in a traditional way to reflect the community's history. Today, street art covers the walls and the market hosts regular art exhibitions.
The market itself is pretty retro, with old-style shops sitting alongside trendy coffee houses and home stays. It was lunchtime, so we broke off into small groups to explore the market community and search for something good to eat.
It is still technically in Bangkok, but the quiet waterfront atmosphere and long journey make it feel as if you have traveled to a different province.
There was no floating market there, but it still reminded me pf Amphawa, a vintage floating market in nearby Samut Songkram Province.
While exploring, a small open-air cafe caught our eye. A sign advertised 'cold-brew coffee soda", which sounded strange enough that I knew I needed to order a bottle.
Cascara is a product made from coffee cherries after the beans have been removed and roasted. This still has a coffee flavor, but is a bit sweeter and without the bitterness of coffee.
A craft soda company in Hua Hin has begun cold-brewing cascara and blending it with various flavors into a soda. It was actually really good and surprisingly refreshing! The coffee flavor was fairly light, and it really complemented the sweetness from the added fruits.
One beautiful example of the traditional Chinese-Thai architecture that you'll see in this area is the Vegetarian Almshouse of the Ha Heng Tua Foundation.
https://michaeldesrosiers.blogspot.com/2018/06/dinh-co-vu.html
This shrine is called a vegetarian almshouse because it provides free vegetarian dishes to the community. I am not sure if they still do this though, or if it was a historic practice.
The most important statue in the shrine is a small golden figure tucked away at the very back. This golden statue of a skinny old man sitting in a meditative position is Pae Kow, an enlightened Chinese monk who traveled throughout Siam on foot preaching during the reigns of Kings Rama V and VI (in the mid to late 19th century).
The interior of the temple, decorated in rich imperial yellow, featured a big statue of Budai, the "Laughing Buddha" (the fat Buddha).
Contrary to popular belief, this is not actually Buddha, but rather a famously jolly Buddhist monk who gained enlightenment; Today, Budai is in the Chinese pantheon as a bringer of luck, happiness, wealth, and prosperity.
These community kitchens are really common at Chinese temples around the world, and I have even eaten at them during my travels! Like at a Sikh gurdwara, they provide free food to rich and poor alike. Some may accept donations, but it is really more of a community service. I have had some truly delicious vegetarian meals at such temple kitchens.
It seemed that every corner of the temple was full of statues. There were Buddhas, famous monks, and various Chinese gods and goddesses. A real pantheon!
The monk is sort of the guardian of the community, and there is even a festival held at the almshouse every year to honor him!
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