Two Forts in Samut Prakan

Over the weekend I joined a new Walking Adventure with my friend and guide, Mr. Noi.

Last Saturday morning, I took the train way down to the end of the line. The BTS Skytrain, although it runs mostly through Bangkok, terminates in Samut Prakan, a quieter and more laid-back province to the south.

I arrived at Pak Nam Station just around 8:30 in the morning, and met my friend Noi and a group of 2 other adventures for a walk in this nearby province.

arriving in Samut Prakan

Samut Prakan is the province just south of Bangkok. In fact, it's so close to the city that the Skytrain runs into Samut Prakan all the way down to where the Chaophraya meets the sea.

the river taxi

After meeting up at the Skytrain station, we had to travel down river via public river taxi, then cross again on a narrow footbridge.

bridge over the river

Samut Prakan, though close to Bangkok, feels much quieter. It's definitely a suburban area, and it almost feels as if you are out in the countryside. Even though I know it's not true (Samut Prakan is a big port city with lots of industry and shipping), the air felt fresher and cleaner. Maybe it's the sea breeze coming in from the Gulf.

walking over the bridge

Our first destination was Phi Suea Samut Fort or the "Butterfly Ocean Fort". It was built during the reign of King Rama II to defend Thailand (Siam) from neighboring Vietnam and Cambodia. The fort was one of many defending the Chaophraya River, and features several British-build "disappearing guns".

the first fort

* notice one of my favorite old flags flying over the fort - the old Elephant Flag of Siam is still flown over historical landmarks

the fort

The old fortress, which dates back to the early 19th century, is open to visitors to explore. We got the chance to visit the old artillery gun up close and personal. It's a super cool old British artillery machine. It's called a "disappearing gun" because of the way it pops up above the brick wall to fire, then ducks down again. Although obsolete by the 20th century, it was an engineering marvel for the time it was constructed, and the pride of Siam in its day.

the big British gun

The old fortress, quiet and abandoned now, was built by His Majesty King Phra Phutthaloetla Naphalai (King Rama II). There is a monument to His Majesty at the fort, on a plinth overlooking the mighty Chaophraya River. When we visited, the royal navy sailors on duty gave us nine sticks of incense and a fresh rose to offer at His Majesty's shrine.

Rama II

It was quite windy along the river, and Mr. Noi had some trouble lighting the incense!

the shrine for Rama II

The fort is also home to an old brick warehouse which is now home to a really interesting shrine. Long ago, an Indian ship sunk off the coast of Thailand. The only remnants of the terrible shipwreck was the masthead, in the shape of a beautiful woman.

The sailors of the Thai Royal Navy rescued the ancient wooden masthead, which washed up upon shore. Believing the wooden carving to house the ghost of an Indian princess, the sailors constructed a shrine at the fort to honor the sad spirit.

shrine to an Indian ghost

Today, the sailors leave offerings of beautiful Indian saris, incense, flowers, and bejeweled bangles to the lost spirit of the Indian princess.

offerings to the ghost

Walking along the riverside, we came to the ancient Mon-style chedi of Wat Samut Prakan. In the past, the temple was built upon an island. Today, the land has been extended out to the island. Now, it's seen as one of the most important monuments in the province.

the temple along the river

The Phra Samut Chedi was sort of like the Statue of Liberty in its day: standing at the mouth of the Chaophraya River, welcoming those who were arriving in Bangkok via sailing ship.

the chedi

In 1862, Anna Leonowens (of Anna and the King of Siam fame) visited the chedi and described it as: 

"perhaps the most unique and graceful object of architecture in Siam; shining like a jewel on the broad bosom of the river, fantastic and gilded, flashing back the glory of the sun, and duplicated in shifting shadows in the limpid waters below…"

The chedi itself is built in a Sri-Lankan architectural style, and stands an impressive 38 meters tall. It contains 12 holy Buddhist relics.

A nearby pavilion holds a shrine to His Majesty King Rama II. The walls are painted in incredible murals depicting life along the river in the 19th century. The hall is unique in its stained glass.

temple murals

"Of course", Noi told us, "if there's stained glass, you know that it must have been built by King Rama V."

a shrine to King Rama II

His Majesty King Rama V was the first Siamese monarch to visit Europe, and returned with a fascination of Western architecture. He constructed the Grand Palace, patterned after those he had seen in Europe, as well as the grand railway station at Hua Lampong. The most spectacular of his Western-style constructions though is the temple at his Bang Pa-In Palace that resembles a Christian church.

more shrine murals

Walking further on, we came to Phra Chulachomklao Fort, built at the mouth of the river by King Rama V. This fort was built at a time of great crisis for Siam. Franch had just invaded and conquered Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos, and, hoping to add the rest of Indochina to their empire, was making incursions into Siam. The fort was built for Franco-Siamese War of 1893. 

inside the fort

Miraculously, Siam was able to defend itself against the invading French (though some eastern territories which are now a part of Cambodia were lost). The Victory Monument which proudly stands in the center of Bangkok is in tribute to this great victory. 

Thailand is the only Southeast Asian country never to have been colonized by a European power.

the big British gun

Leaving the fort, we took a very short walk through a scenic palm forest (sort of a nature preserve) to the Navy Club where we had lunch along the coast. 

walking through the forest

Part 2 coming soon!

our fearless leader