Bang Lamphu

For a combined celebration of my birthday and anniversary, this weekend Pinky and I went down to the old town to spend some relaxing time along the Chaophraya River.

Bangkok's riverfront

I don't spend much time down in Bang Lamphu. In fact, for the past seven years I've actively avoided this area because of the infamous Khao San Road, where backpackers congregate. It's a shame, though, and I've never really given Bang Lamphu its fair shake. Away from the backpackers, it's a charming and quiet neighborhood full of history, local culture, and incredible food.

a beautiful day on the river

Since it was my birthday, we decided to start our afternoon with an ice cold beer along the river.

After a beer by the river, we decided to visit the Banglamphu Museum, unaware of what it was about or how it would be. It ended up being a great decision, as the museum was excellent! For just 30 baht apiece, we even got a private tour in English by a university student who worked at the museum!

Bang Lamphu Museum

This old building was once a printing house for the Royal Thai Mint. Now, it is a museum dedicated to the history and culture of the Bang Lamphu neighborhood in Bangkok's old town. Different exhibits detailed the expansion of the area, the most famous historical shops and restaurants, and the unique culture that you can only find in the very heart of Bangkok.

a model of Bangkok's old cable cars

One really special feature of the museum is a historical Buddha image which is paraded throughout Bang Lamphu during the Songkran Festival in April. The golden Buddha (the tiny one on the left in the picture, not the big one) is the original, and is kept at the museum on display and for safekeeping.

an important Buddha image 

Outside, our guide led us to a small lamphu tree which was starting to bloom. It was planted in the museum's ribbon-cutting ceremony a few years ago by HRH Princess Sirindhorn herself! It's one of the very few lamphu trees (for which the neighborhood is named) left in the area.

the royal lamphu tree 

In the evening, we had some local food at the Bang Lamphu Market, then returned to sit by the river and watch the sunset. A cool breeze was blowing over the water, and it felt very peaceful to watch the barges, tugboats, public boats, and longtails zipping up and down the Chaophraya.

sunset on the river 

We ended the evening with one last drink, a "bia wun", or "snowy beer". This beer is partially frozen and when it's poured out, it forms an icy foam. It's a very Thai-style of beer (Thai beer is usually served over ice), but you can't find it everywhere.

"bia wun" or "snowy beer"